Joining the bandwagon, my 4L OHV build

Ronin8002 · April 5, 2011

If it makes you feel better there is another guy on the forum in this thread who is having similar issues. Different truck, different fan, same controller.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=311149

I don't know if the HHR fan will destroy the controller...amp draw of the fan is well below the overcurrent on the controller. So maybe you want to have them modify the controller?

If you want to return the controller to me though that's cool too.

Xeek · April 5, 2011

Mark, this is a hhr fan lol

i do think theyre screwing me a bit. the setup worked before. and he thinking the amps are too high for the controller also, which they arnt.

im gonna try one last time, charge my battery/check battery and alternator and see if that helps.
if not im gonna wire the fan directly to the battery/ignition and leave a switch between it. so there is no temp settings/low speed crap. just on or off
if that works fine. ill do that until i get that controller working or buy another one

Maniak · April 5, 2011

Xeek said:
Mark, this is a hhr fan lol

i do think theyre screwing me a bit. the setup worked before. and he thinking the amps are too high for the controller also, which they arnt.

im gonna try one last time, charge my battery/check battery and alternator and see if that helps.
if not im gonna wire the fan directly to the battery/ignition and leave a switch between it. so there is no temp settings/low speed crap. just on or off
if that works fine. ill do that until i get that controller working or buy another one

Umm, I somehow combined 2 posts into my post in your thread.. not sure how I did that.. I'll go clean up my post.. See what happens when I answer two treads at once.. (someone else asked about which fan to use).

Xeek · April 5, 2011

lol

the controller/fan uses 20A fuse.. so if i wire the fan up by itself...., 15A fuse maybe?

anyone want a set of slightly used 5.525" smith bros pushrods? i know these are just to short for me

jd4242 · April 5, 2011

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16779

jd4242 · April 5, 2011

Xeek said:
lol

the controller/fan uses 20A fuse.. so if i wire the fan up by itself...., 15A fuse maybe?

anyone want a set of slightly used 5.525" smith bros pushrods? i know these are just to short for me

Switch needs to be a 15-20 amp also!! You call them,they wont give you any money back??

Xeek · April 5, 2011

i think all my switches are rated 15amps. im picky about the controller. i liked the idea of high/low settings per temp readings, stock temp sensor. and thats the one you have? it looked 3 times fatter then mine if i rememebr right. so id have to find a new mounting spot lol

i havent even called and ordered new ones yet. i just figured id ask here first. let someone else use them, get atleast a little more money back then what they might give me.

spal:

There is nothing obviously wrong from what you are telling me. There is something in your vehicle that the controller doesn't like. I don't know what I can do to help. I'm not familiar with the HHR fan so I don't know its specifications and if its possible that it is drawing a lot of inrush current when starting. You know the system worked before in a different vehicle so there has to be something you are missing.

The only way to fix this problem is to remove the fan diagnostics. I will only recommend doing this as a last resort. Once disabled there is no protection for the controller and if the fan over currents or fails it will damage the controller.

Maniak · April 5, 2011

Xeek said:
lol

the controller/fan uses 20A fuse.. so if i wire the fan up by itself...., 15A fuse maybe?

anyone want a set of slightly used 5.525" smith bros pushrods? i know these are just to short for me

Without PWM, or some other soft start, your going to need a bigger fuse, not a smaller one. I'd "try" a 30 amp fuse, but I don't know if that will really be big enough. You may have to use a maxi fuse and run a 40 amp or bigger fuse.

I don't know anyone with an HHR fan that I could hook to my current meter to see how much it pull son startup.

I'd expect the fan to draw no more than the Mark VIII fan, so if you were using a 40 amp relay, I'd try a 30 amp fuse first and if that blows, switch to a 40 amp fuse, but remember, your at the max continous draw on the relay then and it won't last as long as you will want.

I checked the derale 16779 (high current controller) and its only 35 amps, so it may not handle an HHR fan either since it isn't PWM.

~Mark

jd4242 · April 5, 2011

Well i can tell you with that fan you wont even use the low,your be running full blast all the time.i would rather have it use its on temp gauge so if the one in truck fails it still could run,the one you splice into goes to the ecm not dash so you cant tell if it fails.those pushrods should show any signs of wear they are way harder then anything else in the truck,so i wouldnt even tell them they are used, just put in,remeasured and was too short

jd4242 · April 5, 2011

Maniak said:
Without PWM, or some other soft start, your going to need a bigger fuse, not a smaller one. I'd "try" a 30 amp fuse, but I don't know if that will really be big enough. You may have to use a maxi fuse and run a 40 amp or bigger fuse.

I don't know anyone with an HHR fan that I could hook to my current meter to see how much it pull son startup.

I'd expect the fan to draw no more than the Mark VIII fan, so if you were using a 40 amp relay, I'd try a 30 amp fuse first and if that blows, switch to a 40 amp fuse, but remember, your at the max continous draw on the relay then and it won't last as long as you will want.

I checked the derale 16779 (high current controller) and its only 35 amps, so it may not handle an HHR fan either since it isn't PWM.

~Mark

It draws about 18at start and runs around 12, i THINK.i tested it awile ago.i had mine direct wired with a 20 amp and it didnt blow.i run the 16779 and it works fine and its not a 35 amp fuse its a self resetting breaker with a max of 50amps and a 35 continuous draw

Xeek · April 5, 2011

positive > wire > switch > wire > 20A fuse > wire > + battery?
just want to make sure

wouldnt tell smithbros?

jd4242 · April 5, 2011

I would do wire, fuse ,switch, fan
and yea unless for some reason they show wear but they shouldnt,mine didnt and i did the same thing,ran 5.550 with old lifters then new heads and lifters then back to 5.525

Maniak · April 5, 2011

jd4242 said:
It draws about 18at start and runs around 12, i THINK.i tested it awile ago.i had mine direct wired with a 20 amp and it didnt blow.i run the 16779 and it works fine and its not a 35 amp fuse its a self resetting breaker with a max of 50amps and a 35 continuous draw

Wow, that HHR fan draws less than 1/2 of the Mark VIII fan then.. Thats good to know..

In that case the derale will have no problem running it.. Heck the FAL would be able to also..

XEEK, I really don't like something like a fan being run through a switch only, but if you have to, then yes, what you described is right if you started from Fan positive wire in your description.

jd4242 · April 5, 2011

It also pulls have the cfms to though.said to be in the 2800 range where the other fans pull 4000+.but noone has confirmed the 2800,i heard it was in the upper 3000 but one guy said he tested it and it was around 2800,but never said how he tested and never commented back soo.i know if your in a 100+ weather and in 4x4 with an auto in might not be enough.i run around 195-200 in 4x4 in 90+ weather but it wont get me any lower unless i sit an idle for a bit

Xeek · April 5, 2011

you dont have 4x4

are you saying the fans not gonna cool enough with all that going on? or if its wired directly?
i plan on a 2nd tranny cooler for oil and a fan on it and the tranny cooler before i do any of that stuff anyway.

and mark, i would only do it this way temporarily until i got a working controller. i just need to slow down on my money. ive been going broke recently trying to make it run!

jd4242 · April 5, 2011

Im saying in 100+ temps and hard 4x4 with an auto trans it might not keep up.i had 4x4 and those were the temps i ran witch are fine for us,we dont live in a desert or 4x4 hard witout stopping sometime,we just dont have wide open spaces like that or that high of temps around here

Xeek · April 5, 2011

well autozone said battery was 100%. so alternator must be working, batteries holding.

i guess im just gonna rig the fan to a switch for now. it needs to start working
and im confused on that now...
jd says: fan>fuse>switch>battery
maniak says: fan>switch>fuse>battery

Xeek · April 5, 2011

besides that, 20A fuse and matching switch tho? i have a big heavy duty locking switch, i have no idea of its specs tho..

Maniak · April 5, 2011

Jd and I actually said the same thing. Put the fuse between the battery and the switch. The difference was in the order. I typed it starting from the fan like you did and jd startedbit like i normally would have by stating bettery first.

~Mark

Xeek · April 5, 2011

yea it confused me. i re-read it all again and understood it this time lol
just wanted to make sure just incase

this is the switch i have. it was used for my air compressor with a 30amp fuse, that didnt run 100% of the time tho..
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=6421161&MPN=1TL1-3D#tab=Specs

it was 3 contacts on it, not leds or anything. so what 2 contacts would i use to connect 2 wires?

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