Joining the bandwagon, my 4L OHV build

jd4242 · May 24, 2011

Maniak said:
Are you sure the throttle is closing? Our X was having intermittent high idle and turned out the throttle shaft had worn causing the throttle plate to rub on the throttle body. When the idle was higher than it should have been I opened the hood, pushed the throttle linkage and viola, rpms went to normal.

I just picked up another TB off an Aerostar with many fewer miles and it took care of everything.

btw. If I look down the old throttle body I can see where the throttle plate was rubbing.

~Mark

I said something about this awile ago,when we was first trying to set the idle.he did the half shaft mod and im wonder if something is messing it up.personally i think the tranny is causing it.it only seems to do it when the tranny goes in gear but doesnt move the vehicle, i think its just slipping and messing with the idle.

Xeek · May 24, 2011

you have it backwards. the idle causes the tranny not mess up, not the tranny making the idle go nuts.
my idle will raise like that while driving when stopping, then if i shift to anything else, then it doesnt want to work anymore.

it did do the higher idle today, just only to 1k and i didnt loose any gears.

i put the muffler on, i dont really have enough pipe to do it, so its pulled on the hanger to the max to reach the pipe to clamp it. so im afraid its gonna slip off and dangle on the hanger
i hate the muffler, its deeper which is nice, but it hurts my ears at idle mostly. i preferred the sound without it, didnt bother me.
is there anything i can do? reduce to 2" pipe and get a ~12" long 2" pipe after?

im also starting to think the throttle also, i was thinking the way i cut it, but youre saying its not centered maybe? wouldnt that give me the problem 100% of the time, not like how i have it?
can i run it without the intake, maf, filter to look and see? i mean itd be in the driveway, not mudbogging or in the desert...
dont you still have an extra throttle body jd? mind if i try it?

Maniak · May 24, 2011

When our throttle body had the issue it wasn't consistent. Over time though it got consistent as in it would always do it if I moved the throttle slowly. If I let it snap shut it would normally close, but not always. It's not that it isn't centered, its that it won't close all the way all the time. When its having the issue (higher idle) just pop the hood and try to push the throttle closed by pushing on the lever on the side of the throttle body. If it moves/closes more, thats your problem, or at least "a" problem.

~Mark

Xeek · May 24, 2011

well i looked at it and cause i had cleaned it out, theres wear marks on the right side top and bottom, the tps side. hardly anything on the linkage side.
i guess what youre saying is i have to wait for it to do it again to try that lol

one good bit of news, bolting/gasketing the cat to the y-pipe has solved my lean CEL.

jd4242 · May 25, 2011

Xeek said:
well i looked at it and cause i had cleaned it out, theres wear marks on the right side top and bottom, the tps side. hardly anything on the linkage side.
i guess what youre saying is i have to wait for it to do it again to try that lol

one good bit of news, bolting/gasketing the cat to the y-pipe has solved my lean CEL.

Im not going to talk to much spit yet but ummmm yea!!thats it for now!!! Im sure having an exhaust and fixing the rest of the leaks will help alsi.it may have been the fuel filter also,witch ummm yea!!! Yes i have a stock tb you can USE to test it.i still say i has to do with the tranny.check your tranny bands also,cant hurt

Xeek · May 25, 2011

well ill see if thats what it is first, whenever it does it again. check the bands?? that sounds like something on the inside?.... :/

Xeek said:
i hate the muffler, its deeper which is nice, but it hurts my ears at idle mostly. i preferred the sound without it, didnt bother me.
is there anything i can do? reduce to 2" pipe and get a ~12" long 2" pipe after?

Willard · May 25, 2011

Here you go:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=158160

A couple things to note, one being do NOT take out that band adjusting bolt all the way, or even more than you need to really. If the anchor that sits on comes off you are in for opening it up to retrieve it. It says you should have a double wrap OD band, but that can only be guaranteed if it is original. I don't think you can find this out without at least dropping the pan.

Xeek · May 25, 2011

mark it happened again, i tried pushing it down and it didnt do anything. that it doesnt seem thats it either. ill keep doing it tho, just incase

umm my truck does not like having a muffler.... it fell off in rush hour traffic, held on by the rubber hanger dragging and sparking as i drove. sat at a light, drove somemore, until i could finally pull over and take it off.
it ripped a hole behind the hanger and polished/filed down the open end, the clamp was still attached! lol

before i try anything else, the 'popping' i hear. is not a loud pop like a backfire is, its a deep thud/pop sound. it did it with the muffler too, just not as loud. if that makes any difference?

trannys scare me. with their parts that look like brains and crap lol. not knowing if i have the double or single and the consequence of not being sure would suck. dont really wanna drain the pan.

jd4242 · May 25, 2011

Band adjustments are done on the outside of the tranny.still no codes? Maybe it is the iac

jd4242 · May 25, 2011

The poping as long as coming from the exhaust is probably normal,if its not real bad.did it happen before you guted the cat?

Xeek · May 26, 2011

i cant honestly remember. it prob just wasnt as loud

no, no codes, no more lean either

Xeek · June 7, 2011

had an issue this morning. got in, started it just fine and dandy. then after 5secs it just died. i thought i have gas, unless i all the sudden got 3mpg after the rear swap.
so i cranked it over 2 more times, didnt start, it cranked like once or twice around and then locked up. sounds like a dj scratching then it just locks.
so i figured id try and get the fuel out, took out the fuel pump fuse, cranked it, it started and died after a second. cranked 3 times to get it all out.
put the fuse back in, turned key to 'ON' and back off about 6 times, cranekd, started and then it ran fine all the way to work.

fuel pump sounds fine, its not making any weird noises.
previous to that i had driven it fine at 8pm-ish. went back outside at 9 to roll my windows up, key to on, so fuel pump turned on then.

mr cribb · June 8, 2011

Makes me glad I have a 5 speed in mine. I have never been a fan of chasing down tranny issues.

Xeek · June 10, 2011

so yea, first of all, i put on a flowmaster 40 a couple weeks ago, no tailpipe after it just dumped. that same day my engine said screw you and chucked it off and dragged it down the street hanging by the rubber hanger.

then yesterday, it decided it didnt like my cat anymore, and broke the flange off the y-pipe, taking the cat with it. all i heard was a loud klunking and louder exhaust.
the damage of that, right after i fixed the leak at that flange too:

seems my engine rather run on open headers, hopefully it atleast lets me put some kind of piping in so i dont die with my windows up lol

ranger7ltr · June 10, 2011

Any pictures of the inside catalytic element?

Xeek said:
so yea, first of all, i put on a flowmaster 40 a couple weeks ago, no tailpipe after it just dumped. that same day my engine said screw you and chucked it off and dragged it down the street hanging by the rubber hanger.

then yesterday, it decided it didnt like my cat anymore, and broke the flange off the y-pipe, taking the cat with it. all i heard was a loud klunking and louder exhaust.
the damage of that, right after i fixed the leak at that flange too:

seems my engine rather run on open headers, hopefully it atleast lets me put some kind of piping in so i dont die with my windows up lol

The last time I pulled my exhaust to fix a problem with the oil filter mount I looked inside the flange and saw the start of melting of the convertor element...Can you see anything inside yours?

Xeek · June 10, 2011

the honeycomb catalyst material? the rear is gutted, the front looked fine, didnt look this time but a couple weeks ago when it was off it looked fine

jd4242 · June 10, 2011

I told you that jba looked like bad welds and design! !!but hey people swear there the best headers! !!pfff

Xeek · June 10, 2011

its not the header, its the y-pipe. the headers themselfs are fine. problem is it was used, that piece was really rusty too, i figured it wasnt coated and the heat made it get lots of surface rust. it mustve been more then surface rust..

jd4242 · June 10, 2011

The y-pipe is part of the headers. Its just bad welds.for a weld to rust thro there would be nothing left of the pipe first

Dono · June 20, 2011

Xeek, how are you making out? Are you having to get a new Y pipe fabricated?

Joining the bandwagon, my 4L OHV build

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