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Just replaced the Blend Door Actuator on my Gen IV

Discussion in 'Stock 2006 -2010 Explorers' started by edwx, November 20, 2010.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^



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  1. wharriso

    wharriso Elite Explorer

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    Hey, the video shows how to do it. I personally don't trust aftermarket parts, I can usually get even dealer parts pretty cheap online, I bought the $8 ratcheting wrench, I really didn't need it but it came in handy many times later. Yes, I am sure you could do a better job but you did not post a video to help others, why get mad at someone who did???
    .
     
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  3. wheelz22

    wheelz22 New Member

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    I'm not mad at all.....just passing on my personal experience with that particular job. Just because I did not make a video for this job does not absolve the person, so to speak, or validate the info in a video from someone that chose to make one. More info is always better and pointing out errors is also a positive. Sorry that you've had bad luck with aftermarket parts...but that's a whole different discussion.
     
    Last edited: October 18, 2018
  4. wheelz22

    wheelz22 New Member

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    My 07 (with manual climate control) has the same level of heat since installing the Dorman motor as it did with the OE part from the factory...it's never been great since day 1 of driving it off the dealer's lot new. However. there was a Ford Technical Bulletin (TSB 08-5-9, originally issued in prior versions 06-7-9 and 07-8-2) for 2006-2008 Explorer and Mountaineer. It paid 3.0 hours to the technician and had to do with a modification on cars with manual climate control whereby the lack of airflow to the floor vents occurred with full hot selected. Perhaps check that bulletin out.
     
  5. wharriso

    wharriso Elite Explorer

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    You did not point out any errors, just your opinion.
     
  6. wheelz22

    wheelz22 New Member

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    No, that's not true Sir. In my original comment regarding the video you referenced and re-posted here, I pointed out that contrary to what the guy said in the video, this part is NOT a VIN-specific part. The guy in the video said that it is. So that's an error I'm pointing out, not an opinion as you say. In fact, on the video on You-Tube a viewer made the following comment........."I think your problem with the aftermarket part may have been that there is a manual temp control part and an automatic temp control part. By providing the VIN to a dealer they can get the right one. But if you know what type you need (manual or auto climate) you should be able to just get the correct aftermarket part."..........So you see, I'm not the only one to point out that the part is not VIN-specific. It's simply a choice between the two types of climate systems Ford offered at the time. Same as if you have 16 inch or 17 inch wheels. Although two completely different and non-interchangeable parts, but not VIN-specific. Additionally, when you look up the part on Rock Auto, as I did when I bought it, you are not asked for the vehicle VIN.

    And the other error in the video I pointed out was that the guy said you had to have a ratcheting wrench, to do the job. Which of course we both know that you do not have to have this tool. So neither of my comments was an opinion as you suggested.
     
    Last edited: October 19, 2018
  7. katsov

    katsov Member

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    I think that only relying on one source for research is not good practice anyway. Between this site, youtube, rockauto, and amazon, I've fixed most problems in my ex. YouTube is great to see how to approach a problem, but I normally don't take any one person's instruction as the only way to go
     
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  8. katsov

    katsov Member

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    FWIW, amazon suggested this part for my manual control and it worked:
    Dorman 604-209
     
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  9. wheelz22

    wheelz22 New Member

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    Yup, that's the part number for the manual climate system. Just curious....I bought the Dorman part a few years ago and it cost me $38 including shipping. What did you pay ?
     
  10. katsov

    katsov Member

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    Got it in May of last year for $28. It's $36 right now on amazon
     
  11. wheelz22

    wheelz22 New Member

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    I agree....that's why I made my comments about the video that was recently posted here.
     
  12. wheelz22

    wheelz22 New Member

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    Oh wow.....it's come down in price. I guess there may be more companies producing it these days ? Thanks. I wonder what a Ford dealer would sell it for (the OE Motorcraft part).
     
  13. ExplorerDuece

    ExplorerDuece Member

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    Ford sells it for $63 when I looked it up.
     
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  14. wheelz22

    wheelz22 New Member

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    Rock Auto sells it for $48 these days (plus shipping). OEM Motorcraft part.
     
  15. ExplorerDuece

    ExplorerDuece Member

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    Does anyone know how to fix the air vent direction door? I can't find the name of the part. Not the temp Blend door but that changes the vents used.
     
  16. wheelz22

    wheelz22 New Member

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    I have never gotten involved with that repair on my 2007 XLT, but I am pretty sure that the source of air flow (dash vents, windshield, foot-well, etc) is controlled by engine vacuum...not an electrical switch and electric motor set-up like the temperature blend door is. There is this link on here that may help you get started on the diagnosis. NOTE: before you get too involved in diagnosis or buying parts (if needed) you need to know if you have the manual climate system or the automatic. They are for the most part, two very different systems. Let us know how it works out for you please.

    A/C only blows thru Defroster Vents
     
  17. C5Mike

    C5Mike New Member

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    I am trying to replace the same passenger blend door actuator on my 2008 Limited with dual controls. I have the 3 screws out but there is a metal actuator rod running across the top corner of the blend door actuator that is preventing me from pulling the actuator out far enough to disengage the actuator shaft and remove the actuator. How did you deal with this issue?
     
  18. lymer

    lymer New Member

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    Thanks for the reply I removed the console access panel on the Drivers side and found the Actuator. Great instructions I am now going to follow your advice and use the VIN to search part number via fordparts.com. Don't know if it makes a difference to the diagnoses but I do find the noise happens when I seek cold air rather then hot on my temp dial. Seems to go away when I mover clockwise beyond the 1 O'Clock position on Temp dial
     
  19. lymer

    lymer New Member

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    just did a part search on fordparts.com using my VIN # and got six pages of entry door related items. Search under the description "BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR" got weather stripping, various entry door parts, but after going through all six pages did not see anything that looks like the item I am trying to replace under the console. Any thoughts on how to narrowing on my search of this part using my VIN #
    Thanks
     
  20. C5Mike

    C5Mike New Member

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    Hearing no response I proceeded and and got the job done. For the benefit of the next guy, here is my story.

    I had been having intermittent problems with the passenger side HVAC outlets blowing hot when the controller was calling for cooling. It didn't matter whether the controller was in Dual Mode or not. The driver side outlets always worked properly. I connected my OTC Encore scan tool and accessed the HVAC controller and found one DTC: B2267 (Passenger side blend door malfunction or short).

    I ordered an new Motorcraft YH1759 (F7DZ-19E616-BA) actuator from Rock Auto for $23.89.

    When I eventually got the old actuator out and opened it I found that the cause for the failure was grease that had flowed from the gears onto the resistance surface that the feedback wipers run on. There was nothing mechanically wrong with the actuator. It could easily be cleaned and reinstalled.

    Step by Step Installation Instructions

    Tools
    8mm nut driver
    7” long, 8mm box end wrench
    7” long Pittsburgh Professional ¼” flexible head ratchet from Harbor Freight
    8mm socket

    Remove the finish panel from the right side of the console by pulling the push pin at the front out then pulling out on the rear of the panel to release two retaining pins.

    Drive the bottom wire bundle push pin out with a hammer. Pry the middle wire bundle push pin out using a pair of dikes (diagonal wire cutters). This frees up the wire bundle which allows it to be moved out of the way.

    Unplug the wire connector from the actuator.

    Remove the top actuator retaining screw using the 8mm box end wrench. This screw will be too hard to put back in so it won’t be used with the new actuator. The 2 bottom screws are all that are necessary to securely retain the actuator.

    Use the ¼” ratchet and 8mm socket to remove the remaining 2 actuator retaining screws.

    Drop the glove box down by pressing in on both sides.

    Working through the glove box opening, use the 8mm nut driver to loosen the two floor door vacuum motor retaining screws. They are nearly impossible to see, especially the top one and require the nut driver to be held at an angle to work. Back them out about half way. Don’t remove them because it looks impossible to put them back in. This will allow enough clearance to get the actuator out since the rod from the floor door vacuum motor to the floor door runs across the top left corner of the blend door actuator.

    The blend door moves 90 degrees and needs to be positioned at it’s rear most position (CCW) to align it with the shaft in the new actuator. Open the old actuator using 8 toothpicks to free the latches and remove the shaft. Use the shaft to align the blend door as described above.

    Use a Dremel tool with a plastic cutoff wheel to remove the top left mounting tab from the new actuator. This tab is not used when the actuator is installed on the passenger side. This will allow the actuator to rotate clockwise into its final position after installing it. It could be possible to skip this step but I would not recommend it. The blend door shaft will only stay in 2 positions, full CW or full CCW. It barely wants to hold in the full CCW position.

    Tape the wiring connector out of the way so it doesn’t get between the new actuator and the surface it is mounting to.

    Insert the new actuator and secure it with the 2 bottom screws by starting the screws with your fingers then tightening them with the ratchet. The top screw can be discarded as it isn’t really necessary and is very hard to access.

    Plug the wiring connector into the new actuator.

    Re-tighten the 2 floor door vacuum motor retaining screws using the 8mm nut driver.

    Swing the glove box back into its proper position and close it.

    Re-install the console finish panel.
     
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  21. Kevin M Curran

    Kevin M Curran New Member

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    Thank you to everyone here. The blend actuator went out on my 06 XLT (manual HVAC) six months ago. Living in Arizona, I was fortunate that it was stuck on the 'cold" position with no clicking. I put electrical tape over the switch so i wouldn't accidentally turn it warmer (and maybe get the actuator stuck). I ordered the part (mentioned on here from Amazon- and the wrench). Following the video and advice herein, I got the job done in under an hour. Not an easy job for a 6'4" gorilla like myself. I only replaced two of the screws in the actuator, but am not concerned. She works. Total cost was about $30
     
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