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Completed Project Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
I haven't posted much here since I sold my 1993 Mazda Navajo around 2010 or 2011. It was 10 years in the making and finally to a solid, reliable state. I had some other priorities and decided to sell it and get something more versatile. I will include some pictures below of its developing states and final state when I sold it below. In the end, it had 37" MTRs, Arb front, detroit rear, 4.56 gears, D and D doubler and I built all the armor and the Dana 44 front Solid Axle Swap.

James duff 3.5" VR coil lift, 235" defender tires and a home made heavy ugly bumper (around 2000 when I bought it) :
Before.jpg


2001 with 33x10.50s and James duff 4.5" lift with extended radius arms, manual hubs and new auto tranny:
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Here it is just after the SAS with 34s and a swapped in manual tcase and tranny:

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Winching out of Mikeys hot tub circa 2002 or so

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Stuck on a tree just after 37s
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37s, winch bumper rebuild etc
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Final State Explorerforum moab trip 2010

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Last Poser Shots
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I hear it still gets around Colorado and Utah and I have had buddies call me with airings from time to time.

I have had a few rangers and one explorer since I sold my explorer.
Here are some pics of those:

Beat up 1994 Ranger 2.4l ($250)
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Traded 1993 Ranger 4.0l and an abused auto tranny

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1991 Manual Tcase and Tranny Explorer Sport

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We have also had a ton of cool Jeeps. Here are a couple of pics, along with our current Jeep which we are hanging on to:

2005 unlimited Rubicon Sahara 5.7 L Hemi
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2005 unlimited Rubicon 35s and 4" lift
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Our Current 2005 Unlimited Rubicon 4" Lift 315 Kevlars
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It does great grocery getter, family truckster, and occasional wekend wheeler, but I need a truck and I miss my exploder, so I decided to build a Ranger. However, I want to build it a little different this time.

I have always wanted to build a 1989-1992 ranger, so I spent a considerable amount of time looking for a low mile one with the right engine, tranny and tcase in good shape. 4.0l, m5od and 1354M stock. My explorer ended up with this combo, but started out as an auto tranny and tcase. This made for a ton of modifications and headaches with my explorer. Rangers can be had in many other undesirable configurations because they were available with 3 different v6s in 1989-92 and a 4cylinder. It proved to be a difficult task. Finally in the fall of 2012 I picked this one up. A 1991 4.0l manual tranny and transfer case 4x4 extended cab "mountain States Edition. It had 130k on it and ran great. The paint was toast, it had a rusty bed and (my biggest complaint) it had no factory air.

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I drove it for a year until I was ready to have it painted. I fixed a bunch on it- thermostat, muffler, wheel bearings, brakes, had a new headliner installed, etc. When I got a quote for the paint (one solid color and fix the dings) it was 2k. So then I started thinking I better look for a different ranger to build! I settled on this one. It too is a 1991, it has air (huge plus after not having it in my other truck all summer), manual case and tranny and everything else and a 4.0. The body is really straight no rust and the interior is super nice. The odo read 83k and I believed it.
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Since then I tracked down the original and only owner to find it has 183 k on it and they were all hwy miles. The only complaints I have is I wish it had the other mirrors and pop out extended cab windows. I can deal with those, though. This truck has been taken care of.

First order of business was a tune up, brakes and leaky valve cover gaskets.

The build plan is pretty simple: build it similar to how my explorer ended up, with out all the half builds in between. It took me a lot of work and money to get my explorer to preform well off-road and on the street and be reliable. On this one I want to skip all the poor performing, cheapskate half steps I took with the explorer.

My goal is to end up with a reliable, daily drive able, off-road capable ranger that will make a great driver, great work truck and great expo vehicle. I like the idea of a truck over a explorer sport because I need to haul dirt bikes and Sheetrock and plywood and all kinds of stuff all the time so I always needed a pickup when I had the explorer even though I wanted to drive the explorer all the time. Hopefully this will do both functions well.

So far, I have installed:

A blue tooth pioneer stereo (replacing the stock tape deck)
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A optima yellow top
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A Black grill and headlight bezels along with new headlights:
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The only body work it needs is the topper it had on it was put on with a loose and poorly placed clamp that rubbed a hole in the bed cap. I will weld it up and hopefully add a LineX bedliner over the top
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I purchased a Dana 44 out of a 76 f150 with no guts or outers for a $50 bill. I still have my spare warn premium hubs off my ex, and I plan to build this one stout before I put it in and leave it full width but move the c bushings in about 2" per side. I will likely then run stock style f150 wheels with stock backspacing and 35s or 37s as skinny as I can find. It will get a full rebuild and at least 4.88s, maybe 5.13s. I am not decided on radius arms yet. I suppose extended ones are on the bill instead of the stock wristed ones I had before, but I haven't sorted that out yet. The wrist traveled fine but it clunked and made a racket and it was also a pain to get out and pull the pin when it was time to wheel. Extended arms won't perform quite as well on the street as the stock length ones did with the pin in, but longer arms should stream line things.

For the rear I will rebuild a full width late model 31 spline 8.8 put of a bronco or f150 and install explorer disk brakes. I will likely need to have the axle flanges turned down and drill the rotors for the new bolt pattern.

I will extend the wheel base around 3" by moving the front axle forward and leave the rear axle centered in the wheel well. I plan to leave the bed size stock as I need the truck to haul stuff all the time. I will build bumpers and sliders before I beat it up this time.

Stay Tuned, I am picking up the front axle tomorrow.
 



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With my coils at roughly 18" at ride height, my fender to center of hub is is about 23.5. So I am going to be quite a bit shorter than you are Brian.
 



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Its not how short it is, its what you do with........never mind.

Maybe raising the ride height a little over an inch will give you the clearance you need?
 






You just keep telling yourself that...

Haha!

I think I am going to at least try the 6" springs since I have them and I paid shipping. I could lower the coil buckets for another inch, but at this point it seems like it's worth a shot.
 






I pushed the axle back 3/8". So it is at 1 5/8" forward. Pitman arm and tie rod clearance is much better.

Then I made a makeshift draglink out of some tube. The steering stops will hit before the box is fully turned by a pretty significant amount. So in that case I have plenty of room. I think I will leave the radius arm mounts where they are. I think this is as far bar as I would ever want to be. After I get track bar and draglink made I can cycle suspension and see if I can get away with further forward. That way I can adjust the heims if I want to push it forward.
 






Working on the track bar today. I hacked off the stock mount. This will give me an inch more of track bar length and also the bushings on my buddies bronco spit out due to rubbing on that c the way it is shaped. The might help that.
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I think I settled on trac bar mount locations or atleast close. So I ordered drag link an trac bar. The tb is 24.25. Dl is 23.25. I will likely tilt the axle mount less, but I will have to see how the bar clears the diff/ crossmember. The upper mount had to be tilted too to clear the tierod, so I may need to run a ballistic joint instead of a poly joint since the mount isn't ventricle there may be a bunch of lateral movement required.
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I also installed the new power steering pump and plumbed it. The pulley was a pain in the butt! All new power steering now.

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after getting the pump off it looked like it had been leaking so I think it was a good investment. It was quiet though, I hope the new one doesn't ford whine.
 






I think I settled on trac bar mount locations or atleast close. So I ordered drag link an trac bar. The tb is 24.25. Dl is 23.25. I will likely tilt the axle mount less, but I will have to see how the bar clears the diff/ crossmember. The upper mount had to be tilted too to clear the tierod, so I may need to run a ballistic joint instead of a poly joint since the mount isn't ventricle there may be a bunch of lateral movement required.
969DD489-39A0-4449-832E-78852A62A2E6.jpg


I also installed the new power steering pump and plumbed it. The pulley was a pain in the butt! All new power steering now.

314A6992-12CC-40EA-80D3-67BB44130CB4.jpg
after getting the pump off it looked like it had been leaking so I think it was a good investment. It was quiet though, I hope the new one doesn't ford whine.

Looking good. That was the favorite part of my build was when I had the axle located, radius arms in and it started looking like a driver again.

I always use Mobile 1 ATF in Ford power steering pumps, kills the whine. Wish it was that easy to do with other things..........here honey, drink this..
 






I always use Mobile 1 ATF in Ford power steering pumps, kills the whine. Wish it was that easy to do with other things..........here honey, drink this..

Hahahaha!! :D
 






If you haven't filled the reservoir yet, tape a note to the steering wheel. Running them dry for just a few seconds can cause damage.
 






Good advice I went and got some valvoline today. I will return it for Mobil1.
 






Good advice I went and got some valvoline today. I will return it for Mobil1.

I also run Mobil 1 ATF in the transfer case and transmission. I only need to carry two types of oil with me on the trail, engine and Mobil 1 ATF.
 






So you use mobil 1 ATF in the power steering? I thought you meant Mobil 1 power steering fluid. I have heard of brake fluid in a power steering pump but not ATF.
 






So you use mobil 1 ATF in the power steering? I thought you meant Mobil 1 power steering fluid. I have heard of brake fluid in a power steering pump but not ATF.

Ford recommends using "Type F" or compatible ATF in power steering pumps for the 91-94 Explorers, and I bet it the same for the Rangers. I have been running M1 ATF for years with no issues, other than a very clean, quiet pump. Before I flushed my original pump with M1 ATF, it used to scream at me whenever I turned the wheel. Quieted it right down. New pump is nearly silent. Mark (Maniak) does the same with the same results.

Never heard of running brake fluid in a power steering pump.
 






Huh. Sweet. You made a believer out if me! Thanks for sharing that info. I can always here a ford coming by the tone of the pump. Hope this will change my tune!
 












Haha! Lloyd Christmas.

I am working on starting a tranny crossmember/ belly pan. I got some things out of the way so I could work.
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Are you installing a doubler? Dropped of the mount today at the post office. Should be there Tuesday or Wednesday I would think.
 






Thank you for making me a transmission mount! I am super pumped to weld it up and install it!

No doubler in this one. When I did the doubler in my explorer I told myself next time I would spring for the atlas. When it was all said and done I almost could have done an atlas. I did do the same on clearancing on my doubler for explorer sport gas tank clearance.

This time for the multipurpose vehicle the ranger will be I expect 5.13s to be adequate with the stock tcase. We will see though.
 



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The mail came today! That was fast! Thanks Matt!
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I am working on my belly pan today.

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Counter sunk bolts to clear the radius arms

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