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Leaky Motor Mount?

Discussion in 'Stock 2011 - 2019 Ford Explorer Discussion' started by K5OUN, September 1, 2017.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. 03WIExplorerLtd

    03WIExplorerLtd Active Member

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    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2011 Explorer FWD base
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  3. SuperGreg

    SuperGreg New Member

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    City, State:
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    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2013 Explorer Limited AWD
    My only experience with changing motor mounts is on my old Acura TL, after trying the cheap eBay mounts I'd avoid them like the plague. They typically don't have the hydraulic function the OEM ones do. My car vibrated like a tractor at idle. I paid for OEM and switched them out they were so bad.
     
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  4. K5OUN

    K5OUN Member

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    City, State:
    DFW TX
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2015 Explorer Base
    For anyone that wants to tackle the passenger side mount,its pretty straight forward. I had to return the aftermarket mount because since my mount was replaced with the revised mount under warranty the mounting would not fit. Ended up getting OEM parts from an online dealership for about $100. I ordered the mount & all bolts and nuts in case any were needed.

    1: Unbolt and move the coolant tank out of the way, I was able to leave the hoses attached, no leakage.

    2. Use an 18mm socket and remove the three bolts which attach the mount to the rail. (I used a 1/2 impact, deep socket and about 15" extension)

    3: Place a jack below the engine ON LEVEL GROUND ( I figured this out the first time, engine will shift and require you to pull back in place. Not hard, but can be avoided), use a piece of wood between the timing cover and pan. Jack from this point but not much. Just enough to keep the weight off the engine mount.

    4: Use a 15mm deep socket (I used 1/2 inch impact with about 15" extension) to remove the four nuts on the engine side

    5: Remove mount

    6: Install new mount

    7: Reinstall the engine side nuts

    8: Use a pry bar and a piece of wood against the strut tower to make any alignments

    9: Start the three bolts on the rail side

    10: Lower and remove the jack from below the engine

    11: Toque all bolts and nuts down

    12: Reinstall the coolant tank
     

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