Lift finally installed

[wood1]

Yup, had these shackles (Warrior) and 2" springs (Rough Country) for a year or so, sitting around, gathering dust. Finally put them in today. The shackles took about 15 minutes, used a bottle jack between the spring and the frame to line up the bolts. Saw that in someone's thread and though it was a great idea. Worked slick, embarrassingly easy. The metal of the original shackles was thin, I could squeeze them in my hand and deform them... hmmm... I again realized that I should remove that stupid (and flat) spare Bridgestone.

The front springs were a little more work, once I borrowed a big deep socket for the spring retainer nut it was all good. Unhook the sway bar links and shocks and the spring pops right out. It does take a little muscle to pop the new and longer spring in but all in all it wasn't too bad. I sprayed a lot of Honey Goo all over stuff I wanted to remove and it was all good.

As far as the alignment, I used a dial protractor, and tried as best I could to get the front tires at 90 degrees to the ground. It is magnetic and I just stuck it to the rotor. Didn't work as well as I hoped, so I have to revisit the alignment. I did replace the passenger side camber bushing with the adjustable one but couldn't get what I wanted . My alignment is maybe not as bad as guys that didn't realign their front end but there is a noticeable cant outward at the top of my front tires. I had normal weight on the suspension but it just didn't work right. I guess the two metal plates with rods or grease in between is the way to go.

Toe-in is easy, did it with a measuring tape. It's not rocket science. Mind you, I will have to refine the whole alignment. Need to do more reading.

Handles different without the sway bar but not bad at all really. I think the castor isn't too bad as the steering wheel still returns to centre similar to what it did before the lift. The toe-in is not bad either, it drives straight.

More to come I guess...

 

[MountainMonkey]

looks good! why not just get a shop to do the alignment? should be like 80$

 

[Suicide77]

Wow, between the winch and lift it's looking like a pretty tough Ex!

 

[Bruces expo]

Looks Great ! , Wish I had your Bumper And Winch On my Rig !

 

[adamsbro2]

That bumper is AWESOME cant believe i haven't seen this before????? Where can i get one of them?

 

[wood1]

The bumper is 3/16, I bought a half sheet of it and took it to a shipyard. Had it bent in a BIG press brake (would take the 8' sheet), 90 degrees then the bottom angle, not sure what it is... probably like 55 degrees or so. I then took it to a dude that does metal work, he took pie cuts out of it here and there, bent it back towards the tires and welded it all up to what you see there. He is a very talented dude considering he is legally blind. Anyway, I had it on for quite a while, took it off to mount the winch, then just recently reinstalled it, like a week ago. Had to cut it out for the winch and fairlead. I made new brackets and had a buddy of mine weld them in for me.

The alignment just shouldn't be that hard to figure out. I am going to work at it myself. From what I have read the springs may settle a bit so I think I will drive it a bit then go back to it. I still have to install the F-150 shock mounts (and longer shocks) and the longer brake lines.

Thanks for the comments guys.

 

[Naasau]

As always, I'm a huge fan, and your X looks great.

As for the caster/camber, it's tricky to get right and you should wait about another week or two before trying to adjust it again. I've found that doing it right is damned hard, as you need the Jack stands as far outboard of the springs as possible. I literally risked death by putting mine ON the rotors to get the weight distribution as close to actual as possible. Then do the toe/center adjustment afterwards, as it will change with the caster/camber bolts... by more than you'd think. Now, for toe adjustment, I like having the front rotors about 1/8th out difference front to rear of the rotor, which isn't much, then I just drive around and adjust slightly till it feels 'right'.

Now remember, I'm no expert, and I still want some scotch (damn you!), so salt my words all you like.

 

[MountainMonkey]

do you need the longer brake lines? i have a 4" rough country and my shocks limit out before the lines get tight. then again they might not be stock, not entirely sure.

 

[Naasau]

For my 6" lift it was totally necessary. I Donna about Wood's.

 

[LONO100]

effin dope!

 

[wood1]

Thanks for the positive comments guys. I have something in mind for the alignment and I agree that it should wait for a bit. I have been reading up on alignments. I will report back. I may just wait until after vacation.

The longer brake lines aren't necessary yet... once I install the F-250 shock mounts, and the longer shocks I think they will be.

 

[MountainMonkey]

do you plan on getting extended lines made for the explorer? wondering cause i have some 2" coil spacers i'd like to add to my lift but i dont really want to spend 200$ on brake lines. know of any cheaper alternatives?

 

[shooterdude199]

it looks good man. a friend of mine got some made for his yj wrangler on the cheap when he did a soa. i can look into the company that made his. ill let you know.

 

[wood1]

Yeah, my buddy sold me some longer braided jeep brake lines.

Or this is cheaper...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2134768&postcount=7

F-350 Superduty brake lines. You can try to reposition the lines and where it goes through the spring bucket. Likely you can get enough length that way. I think that's the ticket for the rear brake line. Unbolt it from the body and tie wrap it up allowing for a bit more length. Going by memory there so that's dangerous...

 

[dkchrist]

Very Clean Ex! What size tires? 31-10.50? That will be a very comfortable and capable back country explorer (excuse the pun )

 

[wood1]

Yep, 31 10.50, they have been on the truck for 4 years though and there is a fair bit of cracking between the lugs. Still lots of tread mind you. Not that I am worried that they are garbage... I am thinking of a 33 next year. Maybe a BF Mud Terrain T/A. I suppose that will require some wheels, gears, which will require a locker for the back and something in the front either a LS of selectable, which will require bearings, seals, set-up etc for both.

 

[Naasau]

Do it!

Then visit.

 

[wood1]

Ha ha, tempting for sure. What do you think, 4.88's?

 

[Maniak]

If your not going any bigger than 33's.. go with the 4.88's. I'm planning on 5.13's for our 33's since its not a DD and I do expect to get to 35's.

We are currently running 4.10's with 33's and while they work, the auto transmission is the only thing making it wheel-able. Especially since we have a very loose (2700 stall speed) converter and a 3:06:1 first gear. The a4ld trans won't get those benefits. The manual trans gets even less. You really need to be geared right for a manual trans.

~Mark

 

[wood1]

Yeah that is one of the issues, 33's or 35's eventually. I think you certainly have found a fix for the A4 with the 700R... I know my A4 isn't going to last forever, presently has 322,000 kms on it and runs fine with me driving like a grandmother. When I do lean on it a bit (from a dead stop) it makes that alarming scream/chatter sound that hydraulic pumps tend to make when unhappy... I just haven't decided if a manual swap is the answer although that is the direction I am "probably" going. Oh decisions decisions...

I guess if the only issues with the 5.13's really are decreased MPG and DD driveability you can always drive a bit slower. I'm leaning towards the 5.13's... it's about a quarter turn from 4.88 to 5.13 anyway, really not that big of a difference.

Here's where I throw down the common quotes of

"Don't fear the gear!"

and

"Go big or go home!"



Comments, discussion, opinions, rants are welcome.