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Lower Ball joint 2WD among other items.

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by keleko17, July 29, 2011.

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    1. keleko17

      keleko17 Member

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      I am replacing my lower ball joints, rotors, pads, and shocks. I thought I had read enough stickys, and threads to be dangerous, so I got started tonight.

      I have a few questions for the internet professionals.

      First, the sticky that I see is for a 4WD, are there any changes that I should have considered prior to starting this being mine is 2WD?

      Do I need to replace my bearings? I am an idiot and didn't realize the would even be affected by this. Or just repack them?

      When it comes to the shock, I bought these shocks.

      http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1354553&parttype=7556

      But the shocks that came off, had a nut on the top to keep it from spinning. When I installed the new shock it seemed like i could tighten it for ever, and never get it tight. Is this normal for this shock? The top rubber bushing is flatten like a pancake, but the bottom isn't hardly touched.

      3. I can't for the life of me get the ABS sensor looks from the back of the hub. I pulled the 8mm bolt, and tried wiggling it, prying with a screw driver, etc. Nothing seemed to get it loose. Is there a trick? At this point I have just pulled the clips along the rails so there is enough play to set the whole assembly to the side.

      Any help is appreciated.
       
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    3. Lube

      Lube Active Member

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      You need to wash the old grease out with kerosene or diesel (or a butt load of cans of brake cleaner), and then inspect them for damage. If you see any, then replace them...and don't forget a new seal and a new cotter pin.

      Linky no worky, but the shock should have a little tit at the top where you are supposed to put a wrench to keep the shaft from turning while you tighten the nut.
       
    4. keleko17

      keleko17 Member

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      Ok, another stupid question. Sorry I am clearly not a mechanic.

      How do I get the inner bearing out of the old rotor? Driver it out with a screw driver?
       
    5. Lube

      Lube Active Member

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      Remove the nut and the outer bearing. Now, put the nut back on and give the rotor a good yank. The seal and bearing will stay on the spindle. You did take the brake caliper off already, right? If not, it's held on with 2 bolts. Don't let it dangle by the hose - tie it up with a piece of wire.
       
      Last edited: July 30, 2011
    6. keleko17

      keleko17 Member

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      I got the first side done. Went for a test drive, and it seemed to be smooth sailing. It took me about 4.5 hours to do the passenger side. (This was ball joint, shock, pads, and rotors.)

      Completed the drivers side in about 2.5 hours... I felt pretty good about the learning curve. But when I went for the test drive, I am getting a noise, that I will describe as a wa, wa, wa noise. I don't feel it in the steering, or in the brake pedal. It is just a noise at this point.

      My question at this point, is where do I look to solve the noise. When I pressed the caliper, it was still kind of a tight fit, to the point that I could torque the lugs nuts without the wheel spinning. I assumed that when I started the car, and pumped the brakes, that the caliper would release. Maybe this isn't the case.

      My other option is the bearings. I am not that skilled with packing a bearing. I installed the old bearings, because I didn't know they would need to be replaced. All the information I read showed everyone just popping the axle out. I wasn't smart enough to realize they were working on a 4WD, and my being 2WD, that the bearings were in the rotor.

      Any help is certainly helpful.

      Thanks.
       
      Last edited: July 30, 2011
    7. Lube

      Lube Active Member

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      Did you replace the bearings, races and seal as well?

      If you didn't squeeze the pads back away from the rotor with either a pad spreading tool or a C clamp, it'll be tight. Shouldn't be that tight, though. How did you adjust the wheel bearings?

      packing is made much easier with a little adapter you can get for a can of grease. Put the bearing in, put the plunger on top and push until you see grease squirt out the other side of the bearing. It can be done by hand, but it's much easier to show how than explain it.
       
    8. keleko17

      keleko17 Member

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      I replace only the seal on both sides. But when I went for a test drive after completing the passenger side, there was no noise. I did the same process on the drivers side.

      I didn't adjust the wheel bearings. I have no clue how to do so.

      I have a bearing packer, but it is at my parents house, so I packed them by hand.

      As you have probably figured out, I am no where close to a mechanic, but I am a fast learner.

      I have a 2007 Explorer that had a noise that was similar, and it ended up being a wheel bearing. But since this is all of a sudden, I figure I did something wrong.

      One of the boxes of seals came with 2 seals in it. I have never replaced bearings on anything other than a trailer, and the sealed housing on the 2007. So this is a big step for me.

      Thanks for your help.
       
    9. keleko17

      keleko17 Member

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      At this point, can I pull the bearings, use the packer, and put them back, or should I buy replacements?
       
    10. Lube

      Lube Active Member

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      As I said earlier, the only way to really answer this question is to wash the bearings out and inspect them. And you can't re-pack them without washing them out, either. Mixing greases is a bad idea, as you don't know if what you put in will be compatible with what's there. If it isn't, it all turns to liquid and runs out of the bearing.

      Adjusting wheel bearings is easy. I use a medium sized pair of channel lock pliers. While spinning the rotor, tighten the nut up good and tight with the pliers. Then, stop spinning the rotor, loosen the nut up about 1/2 turn, then re-tighten till it's just a bit past snug. If the cotter pin holes don't line up with the nut, keep tightening till it does. Put the new pin in, and you're done!

      Now, have you ever replaced a bearing race? If you get new bearings, you MUST replace the races in the rotor, too. You'll need a hammer and a large punch to knock the old race out and to put the new one in. You knock the old ones out from the opposite side.

      Also...used bearings must go back in the same place they came out of. Bearings establish a wear pattern when in use. Putting them someplace other than where they came from will result in rapid bearing failure due to mismatched wear patterns.
       
    11. keleko17

      keleko17 Member

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      Is there a place to find torque specs online? I know it is a little late for this, but I basically just tighten to about the same as the amount of force required to remove the bolt.

      If I am going to keep doing my own repairs, I figure a torque wrench will be in order, but I figure I need the specs too.
       
    12. keleko17

      keleko17 Member

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      Also, I just realized I never mentioned the model I was doing the repairs on in this thread. I know I mentioned it earlier.

      But, it is a 1999 2WD.. OHV
       
    13. lee2489

      lee2489 Member

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      Replace the Bearings

      I did a front brake job on my 99 2wd last summer. I inspected the bearings for damage and didn't think I saw any. Well, I am in the middle of replacing both rotors and one knuckle because the bearings went out and damaged everything. At $13 each, it isn't a bad idea to go ahead and do it.
       

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