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Lowering the Explorer

Discussion in 'Modified 2011- 2019 Explorers - Tuning & Mods' started by evasilisin, October 18, 2012.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^
  1. Livernois

    Livernois EF Vendor

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    No idea. We do not have running boards on our truck.
     
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  3. LakersCentral

    LakersCentral Active Member

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    What would y'all say would be a good / reasonable price for a shop to install springs & spacers/adapters?

    Looking at getting H&R explorer springs (#51630). Best price I can find right now is $275 on those, and then motorsport-tech.com adapters @$295 (which seems pricey to me... but what do i know). Are there other options that are just as good?

    Any help on what is (and how to get) a good deal on all this would be much appreciated!
     
  4. LakersCentral

    LakersCentral Active Member

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    Finally got springs and spacers done too. Love it. Handles much more like a car than an SUV now, which is very nice being tuned. There is however less spring / cushion when going over bumps, but I don't mind much. Well worth the trade off for the lower center of gravity and widened track width (not to mention looking much better).

    Specs / Costs:

    • Adapters: custom machined 19mm & 24mm , http://motorsport-tech.com , $295
    • Springs: H&R explorer #51630 , http://amzn.to/1JzrUtK , $275
    • Install: $100 w/ yelp deal. 2 hours labor, but took 6 at place I went :mad:. Rent spring compressors and do it yourself! ($200 normal labor cost)
    • Realignment: $80
    Total: ~$750

    Measurements:

    • front lip to ground- before: 6.7/8", after: 5.3/4", diff: 1.1/8"
    • front fender to ground- before: 32.1/4", after: 31.1/8", diff: 1.1/8"
    • rear fender to ground- before: 33.7/16", after: 31.7/8", diff: 1.9/16"
    • muffler to ground- before: 12.9/16", after: 10.3/4", diff: 1.13/16"

    Note: The adapters took 23 days to arrive. Motorsport-tech said they were running behind, but still gave me an estimate of 10 days. Something to keep in mind if you want to do this mod quickly. Also, it would be nice if they charged an actual shipping cost, instead of a flat $25 (I'm just down the coast from them). They seemingly make a high quality product, but they need to get their sh$t together logistically.

    Pics:

    IMG_3974.jpg

    IMG_3975_3.jpg

    IMG_3981.jpg

    IMG_3980.jpg

    IMG_3983.jpg

    IMG_3978.jpg
     
    Last edited: September 14, 2015
    • Like Like x 1
  5. JETZ

    JETZ Active Member

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    what are the specs on the wheels & tires?
     
  6. XplrSprt

    XplrSprt Member

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    Looks like 265/40 R22
     
  7. Maytag21

    Maytag21 New Member

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    Hi All,

    I picked up a new 2016 Black Explorer XLT last week and was wondering if anyone knows if there were any major changes to the Explorer suspension from 2015 to 2016 models. I'm planning on lowering my 2016 and replacing the XLT stock 18s with 20s or 22s. If there were no suspension changes made for 2016 then wouldn't that give me the OK on a set of H&R 51630 (2015) Lowering Springs for my 2016? Thanks for any help
     
  8. aLLSTaR Explorer

    aLLSTaR Explorer New Member

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    I was told that there is no difference between the two and I'm hoping that's true since I just picked up a Traxda lift for my '16.
     
  9. LakersCentral

    LakersCentral Active Member

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    Finally got lowered, spaced, and aligned. Just wanted to share my experience with the alignment.

    At first, the shop told me there was no way to correct the back camber. I pointed out that members of this forum have corrected it to between -1.3 and -1.6 (the right one was at -2.5 after springs/spacers installed). I had to talk to a couple guys and finally the senior mechanic figured out what to do. He pulled the top of the wheel outward while another tech loosened the upper bolt as much as possible. Once it was as far out as he could pull it, he had the tech retighten it. They got it to -1.3 and -1.4.

    This seems about the best possible that can be achieved. With a camber bolt/kit, I suppose you could do better (idk tho... not my area of expertise). As another member mentioned, the factory specs are between +0.1 to -1.5... so i'm satisfied. The shop recommended rotation (front to back) every 3000 miles to monitor wear on the tires. Even though its free of charge, I doubt it needs to be done that often.

    The alignment was $80, FYI (in So Cal). Total cost of the mod: $730. But what a difference that 1.2"-1.8" lower and 0.75"-1.0" wider makes in the handling!
     

    Attached Files:

  10. LakersCentral

    LakersCentral Active Member

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    BTW, if you want an explanation of all these measurements, I found this page to be helpful: http://www.vikingspeedshop.com/suspension-101-camber-caster-and-toe/

    In hindsight, I'm not entirely sure an alignment was necessary (though everywhere I read said it was... maybe just to make sure the values were ok?). My pre-alignment rear camber was -2.5... maybe that was a bit much, but would give me better handling. My front caster was -4.1, and (acc'd to that site) is better the more forward you can get (a greater negative value).

    So... the alignment got me within specs for the vehicle, but probably reduced steering performance. I guess there's always a tradeoff. My tires are probably happier with it aligned.

    If I wanted to get crazy, I could take a temperature gun and measure some tire temps after a hard drive... but I've heard this requires a highly accurate gun and a couple people to do (as the tires cool pretty quickly).
     
  11. LakersCentral

    LakersCentral Active Member

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    check my signature.
     
  12. SilverStallion

    SilverStallion Active Member

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    Has anyone dropped their 2016 yet? Looking at trading the 14 in and wondered what the new style looks like lowered.

    Darren
     
  13. pup5581

    pup5581 Active Member

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    How would you compared ride quality compared to stock...i am interested in lowering
     
  14. slicky

    slicky Active Member

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    Resolved and deleted
     
    Last edited: December 24, 2015
  15. Hmedina671

    Hmedina671 New Member

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    I'm new here. I have a 2016 XLT and lowered with H&R. I had the same issue with the rear being high. Can someone post pictures of how the spring sits on the lower control arm? Thank you
     
  16. peterk9

    peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Welcome to the Forum. :wavey:

    Peter
     
  17. Hmedina671

    Hmedina671 New Member

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  18. slicky

    slicky Active Member

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    Not following the question.....You mean how the spring sits in its perch in relation to the rubber top and bottom insulators? Are you concerned if its rotated into its correct position?
    Mine is with the writing and part number upside down, by the way. According to my call to H&R, the orientation of text is irrelevant.
     
  19. Hmedina671

    Hmedina671 New Member

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    I'm thinking I put mine upside down. Seemed off
     
    Last edited: January 22, 2016
  20. slicky

    slicky Active Member

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    Its upside down. The coil does not follow the circumference of the rubber insulator. Top and bottom of the spring have different diameters and it looks like you have the smaller end of the spring installed on the larger bottom perch.
    This whole upside down part number thing also threw me for a loop. I tried to fit it with the numbers upright and it just would not fit correctly.
    I stopped and called H&R and they told me the orientation of writing is irrelevant. According to them: ignore the writing. If a 3.5" side of your OEM spring is at the top, install the 3.5" end of the new spring facing the top.
    I hate to say it, but you will need to reinstall them. Please do call H&R to discuss before you act on my input.
     
  21. Hmedina671

    Hmedina671 New Member

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    Ok thanks! I kept trying to turn it and did not even think about it because of the writing.
     






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