Lowering the Explorer | Page 26 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Lowering the Explorer

A word of caution Darren. Since lift kits void the warranty I'm guessing 'lowering' would as well. I would think that you'd want to wait before doing that on a new vehicle.

Peter
 



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Thanks for the response Peter. I am fortunate in that I have a modifications friendly dealer and they will actually be installing my springs and warrantying the install. I will be moving over the H&R springs from my 2014 Ex Sport that they too installed. It is a great relationship and they have many modified vehicles they do for customers before they even leave the lot as brand new. Fortunate for sure.

Darren
 






That's one dealer to hang onto for sure Darren. Some, but not all, of these kits actually come with a warranty to cover any issues if the manufacturer declines coverage. Good luck.

Peter
 






Darren,
So you traded your 14' for a 17' and they are doing a spring swap for you? I agree with Peter and sounds like a great dealership. That's how you keep your customers coming back and buying Fords.
Are you swaping any other parts? What made you decide to get a 2017? I am actually considering doing the same thing but starting over with the mods is a pain in the A$$. The tune alone is with programming, thermostat and plugs is money I don't want to spend. I do like the new sport wheels, headlights, taillights, new stereo interface, electric folding rear seats, front camera, non metallic flake black paint, heated steering wheel, rear exhaust tips...I could on!
 






The 2018's will be out in less than a year! ;)

Peter
 






Hi there. Will be swapping my K&N too and then adding Flowmaster Super 10s to the exhaust and that will be all.

Been very happy with the 2014...looking forward to the new ride and trying Magnetic this time.

D.
 






I'm interested in lowering my Explorer Sport but can only find H&R springs for this purpose. My experience with H&R on other applications is they go pretty low much lower than I might like and the ride can be a bit too firm for my taste. Has anyone done this mod and is willing to share their experience with ride quality and fender gap compared to stock?

Is an alternative to H&R available like Eibach or anything other ?

All thoughts are welcomed...
Thanks
 






I'm interested in lowering my Explorer Sport but can only find H&R springs for this purpose. My experience with H&R on other applications is they go pretty low much lower than I might like and the ride can be a bit too firm for my taste. Has anyone done this mod and is willing to share their experience with ride quality and fender gap compared to stock?

Is an alternative to H&R available like Eibach or anything other ?

All thoughts are welcomed...
Thanks
Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
In addition to this thread with which yours has been merged, there are several other threads on lowering that you can find using the Forum's handy 'Search' feature (upper right corner).
Here is just one more; http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-my-sport-today-with-h-r-flex-springs.394483/

Peter
 






Does anyone have a price range for installing the springs. Just trying to sVe my pennies
 






Does anyone have a price range for installing the springs. Just trying to sVe my pennies
Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
I'm guessing you read the above posts re the warranty issue.

Peter
 






just lowered my rears with h&r springs.. will install the fronts next weekend..
after settling from driving several hundred miles ... the truck now sits evenly... only difference is .25 inches higher on the front..
kinda wondering if I even need to go do the fronts since she looks level now..
 






just lowered my rears with h&r springs.. will install the fronts next weekend..
after settling from driving several hundred miles ... the truck now sits evenly... only difference is .25 inches higher on the front..
kinda wondering if I even need to go do the fronts since she looks level now..
You do know that the function of vehicle springs is more than just to set the height, right? It would be an understatement to say that what you did jeopardizes the handling of your vehicle and the safety of its occupants. Yes, you should not concern yourself with how high or low the front sits and install a matched set on the front and rear.
 






appreciate the response but no need to get snippy slicky.. do tell what exactly is the reason for what the jeopardy is...im curious
could not find any numbers but all have said after install that the ride is the same... so the assumption is that the spring rate is the same and just lowered...
weight distribution from the leveling of the car is probably better than having had a rake as when stock.. and lowered center of gravity for better handling
so id like to know what are your safety concerns...

fronts are goin in btw.. just ran out of time that day...
 






Didn't like how low the H&R Explorer springs were so cut 3/4 coil off the bottom of the rear springs which brought it down 1.5" and now the front sits 1/4" higher from the ground to the center of the wheel arch with a full tank of gas. The fronts will be heat treaded and reduced in height by 1" and re powder coated for about 100$. The rear camber was adjusted by loosening the upper knuckle bolts and the knuckle pried towards the outside, the camber is now stock again, also experimented by using a bolt with a 10.9 strength rating and 2MM smaller in diameter and that actually gave it 0 deg camber which was not correct. The sub frame on the rear for some reason was pushed to the passenger side by about 1/4" since the wheel stuck out more, loosened the 4 rear sub frame bolts with the wheels off the ground and the body supported by jack stands and could easily slide and the rear over by pushing on the tires, do not rotate the sub frame or the toe will change and your steering wheel might not be centered.
 
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Want to try lowering my ride too. I am thinking about getting some springs for it from http://www.sterling-springs.co.uk/. I guess, it is a really great update for every vehicle. Have you guys tried them before?
 
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For the guys using wheel spacers. Are u guys still using the factory wheel studs?
 






never ever use spacers if the diameter of the stud which is about 1/2" isn't threaded at least 1/2" into the lug nut, count the turns for length. On another ford just to use 1/8" spacers with thicker aluminum wheel hubs I had to buy longer studs. Unless someone has the exact same spacer, factory wheel studs and same wheel as you each setup is different.
The bolt on type you have to be very careful, anything under ABOUT 1" or 25MM the factory studs maybe stick out past the bolt-on spacer and contact the back of the wheel causing it to loosen over time and fall off, yes fall off:|. The way around this with a smaller adapter is cutting the factory studs shorter probably making them useless or choosing a wheel that has pockets at the back to allow the studs to sit in. In general any spacer may not be legal and will make for another reason for a wheel to come loose since you are adding more parts which gives more failure points.



heres the NHRA requirement

http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/File/2012HRHS-Final2_03-22-12.pdf


WHEELS



The thread engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut, or lug bolt

to wheel hubs, must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the stud. Length

of the stud/bolt does not determine permissibility; length of the engagement between

the stud and lug determines permissibility. Snap-on hubcaps prohibited. See General

Regulations 5:2.
 






The project was MUCH easier than I expected.

The back took my friend and I less than an hour for both sides from start to finish.

The front took about two hours.

Heres the process as best as I recall.

Remove rear tire
Remove top and bottom stabilizer bolts....holds short 6" rod
Remove shock bolt
Remove lower control arm bolt
Remove Spring
Reverse process

Remove front tire
Remove upper swaybar bolt
Remove both lower strut bolts....after removing nut....punch bolt out as it is splined and pressed in.
Remove four nuts on top of shock tower.
Remove strut
Compress spring, remove nut from the end and remove from strut
Install new spring, compress and put nut back in top of strut
Reverse process


Sport looks mean.....not slammed.....coupled with 1" spacers front and rear really looks sharp.






 






Lowered my EX Sport last weekend with H&R (51630) for the Explorer. Did the rear first but ran into a quagmire with the spring orientation. The factory spring was installed with the larger end in the lower control arm. The H&R spring lettering right side up had the big end of the spring up. In following how the factory units were installed the lettering on the H&R is upside down. Although I don't really think it matters, I'm just a little curious as to how your rears are mounted? More than that, do you or anyone else have thoughts on just how the H&R springs should mount?
 



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Lowered my EX Sport last weekend with H&R (51630) for the Explorer. Did the rear first but ran into a quagmire with the spring orientation. The factory spring was installed with the larger end in the lower control arm. The H&R spring lettering right side up had the big end of the spring up. In following how the factory units were installed the lettering on the H&R is upside down. Although I don't really think it matters, I'm just a little curious as to how your rears are mounted? More than that, do you or anyone else have thoughts on just how the H&R springs should mount?

I meant to reply earlier but I forgot. I checked my springs this morning and I installed them how the factory were, so the lettering on mine are upside down. I've had no problems at all with them installed that way.
 






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