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Lucas Oil Stabilizer

Discussion in 'General Explorations!!' started by 02expsport, August 8, 2002.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. FMExplorer

    FMExplorer the original tramp

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    Good point - I forgot about the custom heads and what not. My plans are to strip a block, debur, machine and square it then re-assemble with new parts. Most will be OEM type parts - but want to hit that 230 +/- number. I thought about an Atlas, but that doesn't help with tire speed in the goo - lotsa goo here in the swamp...

    J
     
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  3. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Firewood Season Staff Member Moderator

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    maybe what you need it one of those big fans and rudder, and a big flat bottom thing you can bolt on in place of the wheels.

    Or hey how about those MATTRAX things

    :D
     
  4. FMExplorer

    FMExplorer the original tramp

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    I could learn to be more careful - but what fun is that?

    J
     
  5. mdrut

    mdrut Well-Known Member

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    Hey Jon, if your serious about the build, we will talk about it next Saturday. hate to see you get hosed on this stuff, it gets pretty expensive. Decide what you really want and send it to me. I have some contacts with a local Speed Shop and he gives me some pretty good deals. NOS is the cheapest way to add HP, but it is impulse HP...Something else to consider is torque..I think we can get you above the 200 range for about $500 above the cost of a stock rebuild.
    Figure at least 2 weeks once we get started, If we gather everything before hand.
    Back to the topic of this post...
    SNAKE OIL....
    all the stuff is doing is filling the gap of worn metal..Alot of the time, this can be worse for your engine/parts depending on how the lube system is designed..Diffs and transfers are dip designed, so the parts are lubed as they move thru the basin of oil/grease..So I don't see any problems there..BUT, engines and trannys are lubed by pressure..By thicking the oil, you are increasing the pressure..Oil pressure does not dictate the life of your engine, available oil on the bearings/races does..You increase the pressure, but decrease the flow. Think of it like this, the difference in sucking milk thru a straw verse Icecream thru a straw..Make sense?? The increased consistancy makes it harder to PUMP and you get LESS oil moving through the engine/tranny..
    As far as syn oils go...NEVER RUN THEM IN A NEW ENGINE...Meaning, before the break in period..I do run syn blend in my tranny/t-case/diffs...But, not the engine..Why not the engine you ask....Simple, several years ago, I rebuilt a 305 Chevy for a truck I had at the time, syns had just hit the market and were the craz of the day..So I ran out, got the most expensive syn oil I could find, and filled my new engine..After driving it 500 miles, I changed the oil and refilled with the same stuff...1 week later, I pulled the dip stick and 1 qt low..refilled. week later, again 1 qt low..Again and again, till I finally started fouling plugs. After doing some research, the reason was the oil. It kept the rings from seating...After alittle more research, seems the oil manufacturer had a disclaimer on the bottle...NEVER RUN DURING BREAK IN PERIOD.
    Anyway, the oil kept my rigns from seating..I switched to regular oil, but was never able to keep the engine from losing compression or loosing oil.
    Just my .02
     

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