MAF-sensor cable isolation cracked

[Lukas2009]

I'm so disappointed about Ford's poor product quality.
Just wanted to install a new air filter. For that reason I unplugged the MAF-sensor plug and had to see that the cable isolation near the plug is no more flexible. It is hard and breaks and has several cracks.

 

[Explorer_PL]

It's not just that harness. The TPS wires do the same. Then you chase all kind of weird issues, and you think your tranny is going bad or something else.

 

[nleipziger]

Here is a link to the connector repair kit.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4022055&cc=1434497&jsn=636

 

[MotorCityFats13]

its not like ford invented the wire.... all the manufacturers moved wires down to mexico and probably the same factory... when wires heat cycle very often they do this.... if none of the wires are touching you can coat them all in liquid electrical coating

 

[MyGFsFord]

Thanks, replaced the front suspension then day after test drive the car wouldn't run. Chased a bunch of stuff then noticed the cracked wires. Couldn't imagine what I'd done.

Tried liquid coating, then tape, but I think too far gone. Did see a broken strand on one wire.

Also noticed throttle body connector had same problem. Hard to find connector (it's WPT-948), but then found a connector guide for Motorcraft - Very helpful!

http://www.motorcraft.com/servlet/B...here=1249145887833&blobcol=urlblob&blobkey=id

Hoping this solves the check engine light and wrench indicator. Shifting funny too, so hoping that is resolved as well. Thanks Explorer_PL for the hope!

 

[Beachcomber86]

Check this thread for more places to look.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...my-ghosts-in-the-machine.415084/#post-3644884

 

[Beachcomber86]

That is also an incorrectly taped harness. The wires should be taped UNDERNEATH the shield. That causes most of the problems.

 

[MyGFsFord]

Indeed. Thanks for the link, Beachcomber88. I did notice the cracking initiated at the end of the shield, but frankly the plastic had gotten so brittle it would have happened anyway.

Think they could have given a bit of slack, might have helped if there wasn’t as much stress. Still the insulation probably could have been something with better heat resistance.

Anyhoo, got the MAF harness coming tomorrow and the throttle connector the next day. Hoping that’ll do it.

 

[MyGFsFord]

So soldered in a new MAF connector Pigtail and a new throttle control connector pigtail. Taped up the wires infdividually for TPS connector, and sprayed in some plastidip for the egr wires (which only showed beginnings of cracks.

Truck now hunting for idle, and cats glowing red under truck (with a funny smell). There was definitely some extra gas in the engine, was hoping that would burn off and it would settle down but now not sure it will. Recently also replaced the canister purge valve.

Plugs and wires need replacing, but that was true before these issues started.

Drove around the block and it would either surge or stall, so a little dangerous to drive at the moment.

The throttle control was a little difficult to solder with positioning and the pigtail being heavier gauge (and my admittedly weak soldering skills), so maybe I need to revisit that. Still seemed solid connections though. Did MAF sensor wire by wire, so pretty confident I didn't mix it up despite the weird, plastic shielded bend in the wrong direction.

Also replaced intake, EGR, and throttle body gaskets.

Any other thoughts?

 

[tripplec]

I wonder if they ever fixed this wire quality issue. It certainly very bad for it to happen in this decade of technology. Not likely a CSA approved wire used in the harness and connectors.

 

[Beachcomber86]

So soldered in a new MAF connector Pigtail and a new throttle control connector pigtail. Taped up the wires infdividually for TPS connector, and sprayed in some plastidip for the egr wires (which only showed beginnings of cracks.

Truck now hunting for idle, and cats glowing red under truck (with a funny smell). There was definitely some extra gas in the engine, was hoping that would burn off and it would settle down but now not sure it will. Recently also replaced the canister purge valve.

Plugs and wires need replacing, but that was true before these issues started.

Drove around the block and it would either surge or stall, so a little dangerous to drive at the moment.

The throttle control was a little difficult to solder with positioning and the pigtail being heavier gauge (and my admittedly weak soldering skills), so maybe I need to revisit that. Still seemed solid connections though. Did MAF sensor wire by wire, so pretty confident I didn't mix it up despite the weird, plastic shielded bend in the wrong direction.

Also replaced intake, EGR, and throttle body gaskets.

Any other thoughts?

I'll assume that the new pig tail wiring colors matched the wiring harness. Once I coated my bare wires with liquid tape, everything got better quick. So, you may miswired if the colors didn't match. The bare wires create so much confusion for the computer, it may be trying to unlearn some settings. If you can't clear the computer memory with a scanner, disconnect the battery for ~30 minutes and retry.

 

[MyGFsFord]

Beachcomber86,

The Pigtail wires were all black for the electronic throttle and all green for the MAF connector. That's why I did them one by one for each, starting at one side of the connector and working across, with connectors in the same orientation. One of the wires broke for the MAF connector, close to the connector, which is why I bought a new one. The e-throttle connector had the internal insulator folded up so I got a new one there. Just used black tape to individually insulate the TPS wires as they seemed otherwise ok. Used spray liquid tape (plastidip) for egr connector.

Battery was disconnected for several hours while all of this was happening. I did have the same thought that it was searching for new settings, but not so sure any more.

Will double-check the wiring, and maybe re-solder throttle connections to rule it out.

 

[PotatoExplorer]

You can't just disconnect the battery in these cars for it to clear the memory. There's a YouTube video from Ford Tech Muckaloco (I think that's how you spell it) that will show you how to clear it correctly.

 

[Beachcomber86]

You can't just disconnect the battery in these cars for it to clear the memory. There's a YouTube video from Ford Tech Muckaloco (I think that's how you spell it) that will show you how to clear it correctly.

Very true. If you don't have the little alligator clip thingy, just pull both clamps and connect them.

 

[MyGFsFord]

Went today to try all of that - but car wouldn't start. Try to turn over, but that was it. Same thing that started the whole saga, and lo and behold rain is the common factor. Tried the alligator clip thing (thanks PotatoExplorer, and it's FordTechMakuloco - FordTechMakuloco - lots of great stuff!), but don't yet know how it worked. I did replace the plugs and wires, which didn't help, but did need doing. None of them got stuck coming out, but one insulator disintegrated after the first turn, and all their electrodes were worn way down.

Did notice another thread about the PCM getting wet with dam ups of the underhood cowling, so maybe headed there next. Can't find the thread now, but seems it's a general Ford problem and there is lots of gunk around the windshield cowling.

Also found broken insulation on the fan clutch wires.

The GF is looking for a new used car, but it would be nice to get this one running with at least some reliability.

Thanks all for chipping in on this.

 

[MyGFsFord]

I thought I'd post my reply to a PM asking how I made out, maybe someone will find it helpful:

... the GF bought an Outback and we had the Mountaineer towed over the rainbow bridge. the Subaru dealer said the Mountaineer had "negative value", which my 10 year old son still chuckles to himself about. They did give us $100.
I put on the new MAFF harness, one for the TPS, new plugs and wires, new throttle body, intake, and EGR gaskets, cleaned the throttle body and EGR valve, all to no real avail. The more I looked, the more wires with cracked insulation I found.

This had happened to the GF once or twice before, but I think all the front end work moved things around too much and opened up more cracks. It drove the night after the front end work was done, then never really well after that.

I wish that I had made a better ROI calculation before doing all of the front end work, but lesson learned. We were trying to avoid a car payment for another year, but it wasn't worth the time and money for the Mountaineer anymore. That became clear in retrospect with "Negative Value".

The other thing is that I found some threads about water getting into the connections with the "computer" on the passenger side in the dash. The drain hole gets clogged, and there are leak points in the cowling. It seems to be a general Ford problem. That job seemed like a pain in the butt, and contemplating it was the kicker in the end, especially given the wire degradation.

I think the point is that when this starts happening, the electronics are pretty much done due to age and wear. It's a rabbit hole, and I recommend a hard look at whether it is worth it to you to start down it.

Good luck with whichever way you go!

 

[MotorCityFats13]

negative value....... the junk yard would give 300-500.... we have such a demand on things newer than 2005 around my parts

 

[MyGFsFord]

I'm sure it's headed for a recycler, that was value minus their handling fees - we'd spent enough time on it. Happy to put the title and keys under the mat and wave goodbye.