How to: Make your 99-01 V8 run cooler

[Turdle]

I got back from Ford, with some new parts. I asked and got the 96/97 part number for the cross over pipes, unfortunately those are obsolete and nothing turned up. But the eBay.CA did find that listing for the $40 NOS unboxed type, no part number listed.

That one, http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OUT-OF-...ash=item2a7936edeb:g:N1EAAOSwjDZYexy-&vxp=mtr
... in the USA is $40 as Centaurus posted, and it matches the new 98-01 part I have in a box.

They all have the small coolant nipples for the EGR, so we'll have to use those, or cut/weld and repaint as you like etc.

The old 96/97 # is F67Z-9D424-CA, but nothing but Russian sites came up.

I'll buy 3-4 of those on eBay for $40 each, those will work well.

The crossover also allows coolant to flow up the bypass while the heater valve is closed, which allows coolant flow across the ECT.
You could just use a 4-5" chunk of hose and connect them to each other to retain the loop.

 

[Turdle]

70MPH cruise before rad swap coolant temps 197 , over 200 with ac on
After swap, 193 ac on, 191 ac off. Ambient temp outside was 76 degrees. I need a warmer day to be certain, but I do think I am happy.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

thought i had posted it here, but i guess not. if you use the a/c condenser mount tabs from a 4L, you can bolt them to the 5L condenser and never have to bother with clipping it to the rad again, ever.
i have the thicker rad in mine (98 5L rad) and i am using a black magic twin 12 inch fans. i did have cooling problems last year but discovered i had the timing retarded too much in the tune, and also only had a 9 psi cap on. with more timing in the tune, and a (i think) 16 psi cap, no more problems. and thats with the big motor, and super hot supercharger on top of it. i did however have to mount the fans one on top of the other verse side by side because like dono said, clearance. it fits, its tight, but i can get the belt on or off with no problems

 

[koda2000]

I've mentioned this before, but back in '95 I'd bought a new Corvette and it had a sticker under the hood that said to use Mobil 1 engine oil. Apparently Chevy was able to eliminate the engine oil cooler by using Mobil 1. At the same time I owned a '37 Ford street rod, with a built Chevy 350, that had cooling problems when idling in summer traffic (even with an a large electric pusher fan). I switched to using Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and the idling temp in traffic came down noticeably. I can't recall exactly how much, but I want to say 10-12 degrees, which is a huge difference.

So to any of you guys that are using conventional engine oil, thinking there's no difference because you change it at 3,000 miles, there's a big difference in the reduction of friction. I've been a Mobil 1 user ever since.

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree on the synthetic oil, it lubricates and cools better. I prefer Amsoil though, and they have three levels. I use the lower $5 a quart OEM they call it, for my cars with old used engines. It works as well or better than other name brands. I've been using Valvoline/Castrol/Pennzoil, or lastly Mobil 1(but it uses more oil with that). The best(Signature) Amsoil is closer to $9 a quart, but that's for a new or custom engine, and it can go 15-25k miles, or whatever your chosen filter can handle.

 

[koda2000]

I agree on the synthetic oil, it lubricates and cools better. I prefer Amsoil though, and they have three levels. I use the lower $5 a quart OEM they call it, for my cars with old used engines. It works as well or better than other name brands. I've been using Valvoline/Castrol/Pennzoil, or lastly Mobil 1(but it uses more oil with that). The best(Signature) Amsoil is closer to $9 a quart, but that's for a new or custom engine, and it can go 15-25k miles, or whatever your chosen filter can handle.

No one carries Amsoil in my area (I've searched. There used to be a Motorcycle shop that sold it, but they went out of business). The only way I can get Amsoil is to mail-order it and it's just not worth it for me, not when I can get 5 qts of Mobil 1 EP at Wally-World for $25.

 

[koda2000]

I agree on the synthetic oil, it lubricates and cools better. I prefer Amsoil though, and they have three levels. I use the lower $5 a quart OEM they call it, for my cars with old used engines. It works as well or better than other name brands. I've been using Valvoline/Castrol/Pennzoil, or lastly Mobil 1(but it uses more oil with that). The best(Signature) Amsoil is closer to $9 a quart, but that's for a new or custom engine, and it can go 15-25k miles, or whatever your chosen filter can handle.

No one carries Amsoil in my area (I've searched. There used to be a Motorcycle shop that sold it, but they went out of business). The only way I can get Amsoil is to mail-order it and it's just not worth it for me, not when I can get 5 qts of Mobil 1 EP at Wally-World for $25.

 

[Turdle]

I use mobil 1 just because it is so convenient to purchase, and I can catch it on sale. It's only a few dollars more than conventional oil , I don't let it get over 6 months or 3.5k miles old either way.

 

[CDW6212R]

No one carries Amsoil in my area (I've searched. There used to be a Motorcycle shop that sold it, but they went out of business). The only way I can get Amsoil is to mail-order it and it's just not worth it for me, not when I can get 5 qts of Mobil 1 EP at Wally-World for $25.

I know, I just recently bought a case of the $5 per OEM version, with free shipping. They do promotions more these days. The shipping they have is typically 10% of an order's total, and they charge tax everywhere. But I buy that kind of thing in advance, and bulk. I have plenty of Amsoil gear oils, the Signature oils, the older ATF from them, etc. Planned well, the costs are less long term if you do extend oil intervals etc. I'm not thrilled with their oil filters(I don't accept that a little FL-820S can last 15k miles). But I bought 6-8 of the larger Ford truck filters that use the FL1A base threads etc. Those hold 1.5-2 quarts, and remote mounted I like the thought of extra capacity. Those I can see lasting one year, and the cost was around $15 each. So an oil change could be done for maybe $50, just once a year. That only works if the engine doesn't eat any oil. Only my 99 truck used little enough to go a year, my 98 needs an oil change every couple of months, or add oil.

 

[SWIGIN]

I haven't seen anyone say to use a 180 degree T-stat yet. In the Mustang world (especially the old 5.0) It was common and often the first mod you'd do to keep temps down and maybe free up some HP.

I seen a chart once that showed bore wear compared to T-stat temp and the wear was minimal down to 180 then went to hell. A 160 T-stat as I recall was near double bore wear compared to a 180.

Stangs do have thin radiators and much less air flow compared to an Ex but it helped lower temps a decent amount. I still run a 180 in my 94 GT and have since 2001 when I bought it.

I have not done this to my EX but I have no reason to yet.

 

[gmanpaint]

 

[Turdle]

I haven't seen anyone say to use a 180 degree T-stat yet. In the Mustang world (especially the old 5.0) It was common and often the first mod you'd do to keep temps down and maybe free up some HP.

I seen a chart once that showed bore wear compared to T-stat temp and the wear was minimal down to 180 then went to hell. A 160 T-stat as I recall was near double bore wear compared to a 180.

Stangs do have thin radiators and much less air flow compared to an Ex but it helped lower temps a decent amount. I still run a 180 in my 94 GT and have since 2001 when I bought it.

I have not done this to my EX but I have no reason to yet.

The OBD2 will not like a cooler thermostat unless you reprogram the tune. It wants the higher temps.

 

[SWIGIN]

That is good to know!

I was wondering how the old 180 T-stat trick got forgotten.


The other two things I have done to my GT is use water wetter and E fan controller. My 94 GT was the first Stang to have an electric fan from the factory and it has a preset low/high speed.

I now have an aftermarket box with dials for each speed so I can set when each speed comes on and off. This really helped too.

 

[koda2000]

I had a thought the other day and did a little on-line research and found that my thoughts are apparently not completely off-base...

One reason that antifreeze should be changed at regular intervals is that over time it becomes more acidic. If this is the case, could you add baking soda to your coolant to reduce it's acidity? I know there are additives used for big rig coolant systems to rejuvenate their coolant. I Googled this questions and found that this practice is not unheard of, though usually mentioned in the context of coolant system cleaning and neutralizing cooling system flush. I have no idea how much baking soda you'd would need to add to reduce the acidity, but I don't see where this should hurt anything. I could be wrong but I think the baking soda might act as a water wetter (no Google opinions found on that subject). I know it works great if I have acid stomach and when mixed with water seems to reduce the water tension.

 

[CDW6212R]

I've been using the 180 T-stat in all of my vehicles since the 80's. The computer doesn't alter anything except when cold, and then it's up to a temp well below the 180 range. I think it's near the 160*, but I'm not ready yet to move down more. I will when everything is ready and can benefit from it. Lower temps don't increase engine wear, that's an old myth. Modern lubrication is way ahead of any wear differences from temperature variations. Oil temps are much more important for wear than coolant temps, and you can't get oil temps low enough(warmed up) to create any problems.

I'll get some load and coolant data soon Jon, I've been covered up the past week with my dad's estate, and work. I'm planning to get the scan gauge out of my Crown Vic today, swap a couple of batteries, run my Lincoln to air up the suspension etc. Mow the back yard, wash the car, kill grass, termite/bug spray, clean the garage, work on the 99 and swap the tires off to my 98, ... I'm outside for a while today. Regards,

 

[CDW6212R]

Old anti-freeze is corrosive to the whole system, changing at the five year mark is wise to do.

Reducing the mixture of anti-freeze helps cooling efficiency, water cools better than anti-freeze. I run maybe one gallon total in my Explorers, with the thick radiator. It's good to near zero, which works for here in Winter.

 

[Turdle]

While I appreciate all the input of this thread, It has drifted from what I "expected".


My intent was "how to make your 99-01 run cooler" with parts available on other models.

Oil is not going to make an engine run cooler. I will not buy into that.
Water wetter is a band aid.
Anti freeze-coolant flushes are covered as maintenance.

 

[koda2000]

While I appreciate all the input of this thread, It has drifted from what I "expected".


My intent was "how to make your 99-01 run cooler" with parts available on other models.

Oil is not going to make an engine run cooler. I will not buy into that.
Water wetter is a band aid.
Anti freeze-coolant flushes are covered as maintenance.

I have to disagree with your statement. I have witnessed it on a reliable coolant temp gauge.

 

[Turdle]

I think a mix of coolant actually has a better thermal transfer, and, it raises the boiling temperature over water alone. It also helps prevent scale deposits in the tubing which could inhibit heat transfer if it was allowed to build up. Coolant will also lubricate the water pump seal.
A google search will enforce my opinion.

 

[Dono]

It amazes me how opinions are so varied, and everyone is so passionate about their opinion.

What did I get out of this? My truck runs at around 200 degrees. That means I must have the factory 192 degree thermostat.
So, I need to change it to a 180 as it will probably help with performance (detonation issues). Winters coming, so I will probably leave this till spring as having lots of heat blowing at my feet in the winter is a wonderful thing.

When I move to a 180 thermostat, will my cooling system be able to hold the lower temperature? If not, I will be referring back to this thread on part number for the thicker radiator, and e-fan setup that fits with the limited clearance as I already have an e-fan setup that seems to be very effective currently.

Jon, please update after you have had some more seat time. Very helpful, thank you.