Mechanic removed counterweight, claims it's non-essential. Offered to weld it back in.

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

That comes up as a torsion bar. I don't think that's the correct number. Google results look nothing like my round bar.

 

[EXPLORER04]

That is the correct part number. (5B112)
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/C...orer&initSearch=1&partNo=3L2Z-5B112-AA#Search

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

That is the correct part number. (5B112)
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/C...orer&initSearch=1&partNo=3L2Z-5B112-AA#Search

wow youre absolutely right, I'm sorry I doubted. I can't believe that it's almost $800. This makes me sick. How can they justify cutting out an $800 part, and just slopping it back together with trashy welds.

By any chance do you have any info on the purpose of this part? Do you know what it does, or what might happen if it's just deleted? What other systems would be affected by the loss of this part?

 

[imp]

Probably the front crossmember

The part shown, if that's the one removed, is definitely important. It ties the two sides of the main frame together, to limit flexing which would otherwise be "felt" by the engine. The engine block is a weak part in comparison, and subjecting it to carrying the frame deflection would be stupidity. imp

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

The part shown, if that's the one removed, is definitely important. It ties the two sides of the main frame together, to limit flexing which would otherwise be "felt" by the engine. The engine block is a weak part in comparison, and subjecting it to carrying the frame deflection would be stupidity. imp

Thanks for the info. This makes me want to throw up. Any ideas on where I can find one for less than retail? It's essentially a hunk of metal so I'm thinking a used one is fine. Ill never get the original shop to make good on this, so I'd just like to put it back together as best I can without killing my bank account.

 

[shucker1]

Perhaps a junk yard or Ebay if you can find one.

Sorry to hear about your troubles.

Just curious as to how many others he has done this to and gotten away with it.

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

^ Gotta be. R&R four bolts. Ditto Joe in NY, filled with cement?


https://www.scribd.com/document/325070252/crossmember-8212-1b-removal-and-installation-pdf

Ok so after getting my crossmember out, and looking at it from the top down, it's clear that they pumped some sort of grey cement into it before they cut it. No idea why. But obviously they're sons of b*#ches.

 

[boominXplorer]

I do have an 03 explorer I'm parting at the moment. $50 + shipping for the crossmember and hardware.

 

[shucker1]

it's clear that they pumped some sort of grey cement into it before they cut it.

Best bet is that it is a epoxy type grout. Actually a 2 part polyester resin. Harder than cement but is resistant to heat, chemicals and acids.

Commonly used for mounting large stationary machinery. When cured it can be drilled, tapped or sanded down to any specific shape needed.

 

[shucker1]

http://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000/1111.aspx

 

[imp]

Perhaps a junk yard or Ebay if you can find one.

Sorry to hear about your troubles.

Just curious as to how many others he has done this to and gotten away with it.

@shucker1
That danged piece of pipe hangs right under the converter housing, blocks access to the front O2s, no room to drill a hole in my pipe ahead of the cat. Crossmember held with 4 good-sized bolts, 1/2" size or even bigger, nuts visible, bolt heads hidden within a funky bracket which provides for a threaded-bolt caster adjustment of the lower arm. A thick squarish-looking washer appears to be under the nuts, they may be "captive", and if so, accessing the bolt heads is a real deal!

The pipe is STRONG, hole in bottom reveals wall thickness at least 1/4", O.D. is about 2". imp

 

[shucker1]

Crossmember held with 4 good-sized bolts, 1/2" size or even bigger,

The pipe is STRONG, hole in bottom reveals wall thickness at least 1/4", O.D. is about 2". imp

From what you describe it has got to be a structural member. No one engineers something like that just for "***** and Giggles".

From the location it can be assumed it is there to prevent deformation of the frame rails due to forces exerted by the lower control arms.

 

[imp]

From what you describe it has got to be a structural member. No one engineers something like that just for "***** and Giggles".

From the location it can be assumed it is there to prevent deformation of the frame rails due to forces exerted by the lower control arms.

@shucker1
Agreed and understood! Going back a long time, my '65 Mustang, bought new in Sept. '64, had a similar removable crossmember, which dipped down below the engine oil pan. With member removed, pan removal was a snap, it fell right on yer face! The pipe was secured by a single, big bolt at either end, special construction, it had a large bevel under the head which matched a bevel in the pipe. But nowhere near as strong as the 3rd. Gen Ex. imp

 

[shucker1]

@imp

I agree, however, 04-64 = 40 years of metal design and structural engineering improvements.

But there is nothing like the feel sound of a carburetor feed, 302-289 with points an power steering.

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

From the location it can be assumed it is there to prevent deformation of the frame rails due to forces exerted by the lower control arms.

That's the conclusion I came to also. The thing is a stout heavy beast and its mounted exactly opposite the lower control arms. I feel very lucky that the new part bolted right in, I was honestly expecting that I might have to use a come-along to pull the frame back into line, it was keeping me awake at night. I have to think that my ride will feel a little stiffer with it reinstalled. I also have to think it's at least partly to blame for my stabilizer bar links crapping out.

 

[shucker1]

Sway Bar Links Failing beats a cracked frame!

 

[imp]

Sway Bar Links Failing beats a cracked frame!

@shucker1
Or, a cracked aluminum engine block! imp

 

[imp]

That's the conclusion I came to also. The thing is a stout heavy beast and its mounted exactly opposite the lower control arms. I feel very lucky that the new part bolted right in, I was honestly expecting that I might have to use a come-along to pull the frame back into line, it was keeping me awake at night. I have to think that my ride will feel a little stiffer with it reinstalled. I also have to think it's at least partly to blame for my stabilizer bar links crapping out.

@MyExplorer03v8Lim
I would venture to say that even if the crossmember does not "protect" the engine block, it accounts for some of the stout "rigidity" I feel in the handling and tracking of my 2004, at 160K, goes straight as an arrow! (when it ain't throwing HO2S codes). imp