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MoabB2's Body Restoration Thread

Discussion in 'Bronco II' started by MoabB2, May 30, 2006.

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  1. vervepipes

    vervepipes Active Member

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    a "simpson's" quote for a garage...

    Moe-ooh la di da mr facy pants and you're "garage!"
    Homer-well what do you call it?
    Moe- a car hole
     
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  3. rookieshooter

    rookieshooter Moderator Emeritus

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    wonder the same thing. Garage maybe?


    Oops, was'nt paying attetion to last post. :confused:
     
  4. RatStang

    RatStang New Member

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    Been busy working 10-16 hour days and have not had the time to update for a while...
    So far I got most of the Body work done. I can't touch the Fenders or the Quarter panels because we are Putting Cutout Flares on.
    So the only other body work I can do until I get the Flares is the Cowl and the Rocker Panels. Driver side being Replaced right now.

    Here is the Fiberglass Hatch stripped down to the Epoxy.

    [​IMG]

    Here is how I fixed the Chip out of the Bottom of the Fiberglass Hatch.
    The Crushed Resin and the Fibers were cut out and sanded smooth (This is to make the Repair easier.)

    [​IMG]

    Then the area that is going to be Patched the Gel Coat was ground off down to the Fibers. (About a 1/16th of an inch.)
    [​IMG]

    And masked top and bottom to the Original shape, To prevent to much Shaping work.

    [​IMG]

    Then Mixed the Resin and Put the Fiberglass Cloth in and let it sit for 15-20 minutes to let it setup.
    [​IMG]

    Then the freshly mixed Resin was applied to the Original Fibers on the Hatch.

    Then right before it started to Gel the Soaked Fiber Cloth was applied. And the Bubbles were smoothed out.

    This is right after it fully cured.
    [​IMG]

    Then the Cured Resin was Filed down to just below the surface.

    [​IMG]

    And a Fiberglass Reinforced Filler was applied.
    Then all the Original Body lines were filed back into place.
    And blocked smooth with 120 grit.

    Front
    [​IMG]

    Rear
    [​IMG]

    This Creates a Repair that is as Strong if not Stronger then the Original. (Because it is Repaired under the Surface.)


    Now the Top of the Door Repair.
    [​IMG]

    Here is the Patch that matches all Body lines.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The match masked onto the Door, (This is so you can cut the Damage out and cut the Patch at the same time (To create a perfect Patch.)

    [​IMG]

    Then it was cutout with a high speed and Folded over so the Backside could be cut (This was done do to the lack of access to the Backside.)

    [​IMG]

    Here is the New patch Welded in.

    [​IMG]

    Then the welds were Grinded smooth and a Fiberglass Reinforced Filler was applied (I allways recommend the use of a less porous Fiberglass Reinforced fillers directly over welds.)

    [​IMG]

    It takes a lot to get body lines 100% correct. There is about 13 Hours into this Edge alone. 3 Coats of Fiberglass Reinforced filler and about 4 coats of a Standard thinned filler. (at the Deepest point is only about a 32nd" of an inch.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is a Very high stress area and any Plastic fillers over 1/16th of an inch Will not Survive...




    Here is the Repaired Pillar.

    The welds were ground smooth.
    [​IMG]

    And there is 2 Coats of Fiberglass Reinforced filler and 3 Coats of Standard Filler. and one Coat of Thinned Filler.
    This is about 7 Hours of work.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I Recommend away from ever Fabricating an edge with any plastic Fillers of anykind. Edges are weak point and it will fail with time.


    Here is the Driver door after some Shaping work. (Not much access to this area.)

    [​IMG]
    All holes were welded shut.
    There is about 13 hours into this Repair on the Door.
    [​IMG]

    None of the filler Exceeds 1/8th of an inch. Originaly there was 3/4s of an inch of filler in this door. (Dumbasses...)

    [​IMG]

    Here is the Body work on the Passenger door.
    [​IMG]

    On the hood.
    [​IMG]

    And the roof.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    the Rocker Showed up Wednesday morning at 11 AM. So I got started on
    removing the old Rocker...
    Ford went way overboard on the Rocker 67 Spot welds... I worked on it from 11 AM to 11 PM and only managed to get half of it out...
    Some of the of the spot welds were close to impossible to remove. But I just finished pulling it out yesterday.

    It started out as trying to remove it clean (in one piece)......

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And got everything cleaned up and am going through all the Fitting processes now.

    Right now I'm working on the Damage to the Quarter panel Caused by the tire Rubbing the Wheel housing, Causing it to force the Back in about an inch. (This is an extremely Reinforced area.) and is being difficult to get it correct...

    I'm not going to go into any details on this till I get a chance to get pictures.

    Richard
     
    Last edited: July 14, 2006
  5. MoabB2

    MoabB2 Active Member

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    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    89 Bronco II (97 Mercury)
    Sounds like we will be cutting it pretty close to have this thing back together before the Park City IMAFS Show. I really hope we can get it there!

    More new parts arrived today. New radiator (this is the 3rd one they have shipped, 1st was bent, 2nd was wrong size, this one better be right!), Bushwacker cutout fender flares, new tailight lenses, and new window weatherstrip.

    Custom Torque Monster Headers will be arriving later this week!
     
  6. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Snow Season Staff Member Moderator

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    Nice! It appears, like me, you have the other "$30K" bronco II. hahaha my dad has been teasing me for years, "you could have a Cadillac Escalade for what you have put into that Bronco" and to that I say, "yes but a Escalade doesn't do so well in Moab, also I think I could have two!"

    Me next me next! Oh wait I am just going to chop mine up.....
     
  7. MoabB2

    MoabB2 Active Member

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    Well, if I was driving an Escalade I'd be a 'self indulgent wiener', Now If I was driving a Ford Bronco II.... "Sir, you wouldn't be a self indulgent wiener, you'd be a connoisseur!"

    "Who the hell pays to brighten up a 1989 Bronco II?"
    "I think it holds a certain sentimental value...."


    Your right though, the Escalade won't even touch the B2 in Moab...
     
  8. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Snow Season Staff Member Moderator

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    the BII has been so good to me, she deserves ever $$$ I throw at her, besides I have only just BEGUN!
     
  9. RatStang

    RatStang New Member

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    The Flares are Cut out, The Fenders and Quarter panels have been Reinforced (None of that Oil canning BS) The Original Flares have been Slightly Smoothed out of the Panels, The Rear Wheel Housings have Been Stretched to Close all Gaps. Every thing possible has been Welded (Not Riveted.) It took about 5 Hours per flare. (2 Days) to get them done.

    I'm disappointed in the Quality of the Flares (For the Price) and the way Bushwacker Suggest you install them is IMO asinine.

    I'm not even going to get into all the Problems they Suggest you create... Absolutely Asinine!


    Do to the IMAFS Deadline. and having to Work unreal Hours. I am not going to able to Update the Progress until completion of this Project.

    One of the things you guys have to understand is I have had to work 10-16 hour days. Everyday, I have only had one day off since this project started. So I'm very short on time.

    I'm not Sure if we are going to make it (If so it is going to be close) But like I told MoabB2 (The Owner) I sure as hell am going to try.

    So I will not be able to Update anything until I get it done. If I get a little free time I may be able to throw a small update up.



    Any words of inspiration is greatly appreciated.


    I got to get back to work.


    "Git Er Done!!" [​IMG]
     
  10. MoabB2

    MoabB2 Active Member

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    89 Bronco II (97 Mercury)
    Don't worry all....the work is still going forward!

    Multiple coats of primer have been applied to the entire body. About two or three more weeks were spent just on perfecting the body work. Also, the entire underbody has been prepped with POR-15 and covered with Liner. All the panels were reassembled and realigned to insure a perfect fit. The flares were once again reworked for a perfect fit. I was told that Ratstang got about 3" more clearance out of each flare! Bring on the 37's!

    The two-tone paint is very close to going on. It should be any day now.

    The Torque Monster Headers arrived, finally. They look really good! I hope that they fit and perform as well as they look! Most of the drivetrain has been mounted on the frame already, so once the paint is complete, re-assembly should be well on it's way.

    This should be a completely different beast when it is done, I can't wait to see it! Some of the major changes (besides the paint and body) include: Custom tubed radiator support housing new aluminum radiator and auxilary tranny cooler, trans temp guage, Torque Monster Headers, Bushwacker Cutout Fender Flares with custom hexnut bolts, James Duff Body Mounts, F150 Coil Spacers, new weather strip, new rocker panel, new rear tailights, Custom FX4 and 5.0 Decals, refreshed receiver bumpers with new foglights, and new 33" spare MTR.

    I am sure that before it is all said and done a few more things will need replaced.

    I'm gonna line the flares as well as the side mirrors, so they will be black. My bumpers, wheels, and rack are also all black. I am debating whether or not to stick with my chrome billet grill, paint my stock b2 grill blue like the rest of the truck, or go with a new black grill and black headlight trim. What do ya think?
     
  11. RatStang

    RatStang New Member

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    Hey guys,

    Yea I know I need to update the progress.
    But I've been busy on the project.
    But there is around a hundred and forty pictures built up. And its kind of overwhelming.

    The guy that owned this truck before the current owner lived on a golf course. And I'm pretty sure the truck was used as a target...

    So far I have found 46 Golf ball size dents. Problem with the Golf ball dents is they hide. Because there are some that are only about 1 mil deep. You would not even be able to see it on a standard vehicle...
    So everytime I block it out, The straighter it gets, the more dents that start to show...

    It has been through two coats of Epoxy.
    Blocked out.
    Epoxy started getting to thin so two more coats of Epoxy.
    Blocked out.
    2 Coats of 2K surfacer.
    Blocked out.
    More dents corrected.
    Blocked out.
    2 more coats of 2K Surfacer.
    Blocked out.
    More dents corrected.
    Blocked out.
    Found that the Driver door was slighly Bowed. and corrected that.
    2 coats of 2K surfacer.
    Blocked out.
    Looked straight so I moved into sealer.
    Blocked it out again.
    Found 3 more tiny little divots.
    Corrected the Dents.
    Blocked out.
    1 coat of Sealer.
    Ran out of Sealer right after I finished the Shell. and whats the chances, It was on Thursday night. And my Local Jobber that carried the sealer I was using was out of town... And closed Saturday and Sunday...
    And I was out of the Sealers time Window.
    So I blocked it out. And found 3 more Micro dents.
    Corrected the dents.
    And picked up some PPG MP171 from another local Jobber.
    Then I did some Fine Blocking just to double check. And everything looks good did find two small dents (About 3/4 mil deep). But I was able to block them out.

    Then we decided it would be best to replace the front Valance. Because it has a been bent in a few places, and bowed on the driver side.
    So I have been working on other stuff waiting until I get it before I can start moving back into sealer. Only have a three day window to have all the paint on with the MP171.
    But after checking the paint scheme last night. The Valance is part of the Solid white stripe.
    So I'm moving back into masking, and Preperation for sealer. And I'll get started on the Door jams, engine Compartment, Backsides of Doors Hood, Hatch, Etc.

    This is in no doubt probably the straightest B2 on the planet.
    And I'll gurantee no B2 on the planet has had a Restoration this deep.
    Now I'm not going to say it is absolutly show car straight. But it is quite a bit straighter then most modern Vehicles, And thats pretty damn straight. And it is hard to make vehicles with such thin large panels perfect. But it should put it into the Top show "Truck" range.

    I have been surprised at how much attention this B2 Gets. I have seen it surrounded by people more then once.
    And you would not believe how many people have owned a Bronco II.

    Richard
     
  12. rookieshooter

    rookieshooter Moderator Emeritus

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    More then anythng I like the way your not rushing thru it just to show that your done. Sure I can't wait to see it done. but I'm learning from all this work your doing. To me that's one of the most important ingrediants of a build project. Keep it up. That's like on my build. I remeber what 410 said. "They never get done", well not on a trail rig anyway. Even when I do get it running and taking pics on the trail. It will never be really done. Got other ideas allready once I do get it on the trails. The Swamp Spider will allways be morphing.
     
  13. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Snow Season Staff Member Moderator

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    Thats awesome! Alot of people have owned a 80's ranger or a BII, I get that alot too..."man I used to have one of those, but it fell apart", etc....

    I cannot believe this BII is getting this kind of body work because I am pretty sure this sucker is going to be a trail duty rig? If you gave my truck this kind of treatment I am not sure it would see dirt and rocks anymore, I wouldnt want to mess it up!
     
  14. MoabB2

    MoabB2 Active Member

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    Who says my trail rig can't be beautiful too?!!! JK

    I definitley don't want to mess it up, so I will have to baby it for a while. It is still headed for heavy duty trail use though. I'll have to add some more body armor first. I'll be sure to snap a lot of photos for the mags while it is still pretty!
     
  15. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Snow Season Staff Member Moderator

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    SLIDERS
    BUMPERS

    The Duff bumpers I have have 95% protected every corner of the BII body, and I have smacked them on some pretty big rocks (enough to brake all 4 bolts holding the front bumper on).
    The sliders are required, I have not built mine yet and I have been fortunate, its amazing what 35's will get you over without hitting the rocker in a short wheel base BII, but well built and fit sliders will protect the sides for sure...
    So how much time do yo uwant to spend on those factory bumpers and valance? hehehe

    just messin, this rig is going to be awesome.
    The Tuff Duff II BII is very pretty and she gets beat up, mine needs some TLC, but nothing this extreme... the world could use a few more straight Bronco II's!
     
  16. MoabB2

    MoabB2 Active Member

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    I agree that this BII will feel a little out of place on an extreme trail. I generally take it really easy on my vehicles though. The only body damage I have ever caused was when my rear tire was jammed into the wheel well and rubbed on the rear quarter panel. I hope to do some more extreme stuff in the future, avoiding body damage will have to be my number 1 concern.

    I have also loved the Duff bumpers. I have also slid them over some nasty rocks and towed other vehicles with them. The do provide decent protection. A 6 in lift with 33's also provides some nice clearance for the rockers. Like you said, it is amazing what that does for a short wheelbase! I can only imagine what 35's or 37's will do to help out.

    Where can I get some nice sliders for my rockers?
     
  17. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Snow Season Staff Member Moderator

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    build them!!
    I am going to make mine match the Duff bumpers, kinda :)
    they will have plastic skid plates
    I thought he said you were getting a new valance for your front = the part under the bumper? or is he talking about the gravel gaurd valance that goes under the grill?

    I forgot you had the Duff bumpers :)
     
  18. MoabB2

    MoabB2 Active Member

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    The valance is the body piece that is right below the grill. I'm not sure how it is on the 88's and older, mine wraps around the side a little too. It is well out of the way from harm, the bumper fully protects it.
     
  19. RatStang

    RatStang New Member

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    Well have a little free time, Let's see if I can get much of this updated.

    Here is the Rocker all fitted in.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And Tacked in.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here is the Engine Compartment Stripped down to the epoxy.
    [​IMG]

    Here is the Flare install. (I'm not going to go into detail on this.)
    Marked and Masked for the cut.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Cutout.
    [​IMG]


    This is how Bushwacker suggest you leave these cut out. Oil Canned...

    [​IMG]

    Original Flare smoothed out, Reinforced, and everything spot welded.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Rear Flares smoothed out and Rear wheel housings expanded. And Spot Welded together. (Bushwacker suggest you fill the 1 1/4 inch gap with Silicone Sealer...) (Was not able to get process pictures.)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Wheel Housings Expanded 1".
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Passenger.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Hmm looks like I'm missing some photos... All of the Body work on the Flares Etc.

    Shell in Epoxy.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    (Primer process was posted in earlier posts.)

    Body in 2K Urethane.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    All the Panels in Epoxy.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Underside Stripped for Por-15

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Por-15'ed
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And everything Lined
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Underside Stripped for Por-15

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Por-15'ed
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And everything Lined
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. RatStang

    RatStang New Member

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    1990 Ranger XLT
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Fully Assembled Body, Blocked out. (Not quite sure what coat this was. :) )

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Another Coat of 2K Urethane ready to block out.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Blocked out.
    [​IMG]

    Problem Spots Corrected and Epoxied
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Fender Flares didn't fit worth a damn But nothing a Heat gun and 15 hours couldn't fix.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Fully assembled front end/Radiator support Finished.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    (Notice Lower Fender mount. Under headlight.)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here is the Fully Blocked out body. (To show how straight it is.)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    And here she is under a few coats of 333 Zenith Series Base, And AC4400 Clear.
    Not very good pictures
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here is a small Video just to give you an Idea of the color.

    It is a Black Base with Dark Blue Peal Metallic in it. It looks Black when not in direct light and is a Dark Blue in Direct light.
    http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/1989BroncoIILarge109


    Richard
     
  21. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Snow Season Staff Member Moderator

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    my goodness this is incredible
    Ratstang can I see your vehicle? hahaha

    I am speachless about the work you have done,this truck should be parked under glass.
     

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