HMayes
Member
- Joined
- April 27, 2017
- Messages
- 19
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Albany, NY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2013 Explorer Limited.
I haven't yet. Busy week (wife had a baby boy!) I plan to test it this weekend.
I haven't yet. Busy week (wife had a baby boy!) I plan to test it this weekend.
Congratulations! I hope when you test it, it turns out it's yours.............
Here are my results:
Push tilt up:
12 and 3: closed
12 and 8: open (fail)
Pull tilt down:
12 and 3: closed
12 and 6: open (fail)
Sorry Fords service procedure is wrong. 12 and 8 show closed circuit when pulled tilt down not up and 12 and 6 are closed when tilt is pushed up not down. Just checked on my Ex.
Next thing to do is check the roof opening module for voltage. In the opening where you pulled the switch panel assembly there is a 14 cavity connector towards the rear of that opening. Check pins 1 (Violet/Red) and 2 (Gray/Blue) for battery voltage (set Multimeter to DC volts and ground 1 lead and probe the pins with the other).
Also check the ground of this connector at pin 4 (black). Keep 1 multimeter lead grounded, switch to measuring Ohms and probe pin 4. If 3 ohms or less then there is good continuity to ground.
Ahhh. Interesting. I checked just for kicks and my switch does behave like yours. I found the 14 pin connector. Pin 1 shows 14.4 volts. Pin 2 shows 14.4 volts.
Ground pin 4 would jump between 1 and 15 ohms and OL (overload, which is the default state for ohms on my Klein MM300 multimeter when there's no contact), but I suspect that's because I couldn't find a good ground. I was grounding against the driver side door latch screws which are painted black. I just scratched them to make contact. What should I do next? Starting to wonder if the glass motor is bad? Although I've read the shade motor is supposed to activate when opening the glass using the slide switch, which doesn't happen for me.
With the sunglass holder/switch assembly down try wiggling the connector at the front and back while trying to actuate everything. (see if there is maybe bad wire somewhere)
Also check all the rear pins listed above (5,6,12) for continuity to ground (shorts)
Thanks for that. I was able to see the glass motor pretty easily through the hole in the roof. I tapped it pretty good with a screwdriver. No luck. Also getting 13 volts on both of those pins. I guess I will buy a new glass motor.Ford says part cost is $170 (dealer price) and labor is 3.5 hours for motor replacement. At $100 an hour that's already $520 and they may charge a $100 diagnostic fee just to make sure its the motor. So $620.
And that folks is why I do my own repairs. $70 dollar part and about 2 hours worth of work as I almost always beat the book time.
BTW here is the motor and if you smack it, only hit the metal cylinder part.
Thanks for that. I was able to see the glass motor pretty easily through the hole in the roof. I tapped it pretty good with a screwdriver. No luck. Also getting 13 volts on both of those pins. I guess I will buy a new glass motor.
did you hit the end of the screwdriver with a hammer? Anytime we did it to window motors we smacked the metal of the motor with a dead blow hammer.
I would try swapping motors (shade to glass). That's just me trying to save 70 bucks, in case it wasn't the motor but all the testing says it is.
Good call. I may try that. Something that is bothering me about this, if it's the glass motor that's bad, why does the glass switch not cause the shade to retract? The shade switch operates the shade just fine, and my understanding is if you use the glass switch to open the glass while the shade is closed, the shade will open as well as the glass. So why does the glass switch not open the shade? Does that indicate a problem other than a bad glass motor?
Mine turned out to be the motor that powers the glass. They tested fuses and switches but the motor turned out to be the issue. It definitely was due to water. I now know there are four drain holes in the "gutter" channel surrounding the moon roof. If they get clogged by dirt, pollen, gunk the holes plug, the channel fills up and the headliner swells. I now blow out those occasionally (low to medium pressure - 25 to 50 lbs) to keep them open. Now guess what...I guess I waited too long to clean them because we had a huge rain dump on us and I woke up to a soggy headliner and another burned out motor! I wasn't thinking and tried opening it before it all dried out. I suppose we all get a case of the dumbass sometimes. (2x now? Gee) But you would think if someone can make $5 aquarium pump motors that live under water that Ford could make a motor that can deal with a little moisture. I have an extended warranty but will still cost me the deductible.
I am considering buying the OEM motor myself and have the shop install it. I have the model number from the ticket. BB5Z15790A / SUNROOF MOTOR/MODULE ASSY
Last time it took them 3 weeks to get the motor and then they ordered the wrong one. This leads me to a question. Some schematics Ive seen online show two motors. A left and a right. I'm assuming one operates the shade. In my case both times the shade continued to work. If you have made any progress, do you happen to know whether the left or the right motor operates the glass?
I visited the shop and it looks like if you have some experience and your are willing to tug on your trim and headliner that you could likely replace the motor yourself. I don't trust myself to do that but you might.
I'm doing more research and will let you know.
You may see my post repeated on a new thread. I want to see if anyone else knows which motor controls the glass.
Good luck
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/water-leak.327803/page-40#post-3555936Mine turned out to be the motor that powers the glass. They tested fuses and switches but the motor turned out to be the issue. It definitely was due to water. I now know there are four drain holes in the "gutter" channel surrounding the moon roof. If they get clogged by dirt, pollen, gunk the holes plug, the channel fills up and the headliner swells. I now blow out those occasionally (low to medium pressure - 25 to 50 lbs) to keep them open. Now guess what...I guess I waited too long to clean them because we had a huge rain dump on us and I woke up to a soggy headliner and another burned out motor! I wasn't thinking and tried opening it before it all dried out. I suppose we all get a case of the dumbass sometimes. (2x now? Gee) But you would think if someone can make $5 aquarium pump motors that live under water that Ford could make a motor that can deal with a little moisture. I have an extended warranty but will still cost me the deductible.