Multiple electric issues | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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TherealHutch

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May 17, 2017
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City, State
Charleston sc
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer xlt
I've got a 2000 explorer xlt 4.0 sohc with almost 300k on it. Still running like a SOB. About a year ago (this is a secondary vechicle so I was in no hurry) the power windows, interior lights, cruise control, and the rear hatch electronics stopped working. At first they would intermittently work. However when one worked they all worked. A few,months they quit for good. Today I finally got around to start troubleshooting. I am no mechanic and I am certainly not an electrician, so please excuse my, ignorance. Although I doubted it was a window issue I First pulled off the interior door panel to check the the switch and connecting points for continuity. Everything tested good. However with the key in the in position there was 0 volts to the power window switch. The power mirrors and locks are still working and they tested 12 volts on the multimeter. So naturally I move to the power panel under the hood and check my 30 amp fuse for continuity, and it checks on fine. I even checked most the others and the fuses in the dash power panel. Everything seems fine there as well. I starting look at all my grounds and so far everything is tight. I. Removes the boot and checked the turret in the door to see if there was any broken wires. Everything seems fine there as well. At this point I really am not sure what else to beck checking. I noticed several of what I would refer to as wiring harnesses under the hood. 3 were against firewall under brake MC, and one was right on top of block and had a bolt that tightened to hold thr make and female ends together. Any suggestions/insight/experience would be greatly appreciated.
 






Use the wiring diagram in the back of the Haynes manual. You've got an open in the circuit somewhere. Likely on a common ground wire. Just because your connector grounds seem tight doesn't mean the wire on the other side of that pin has continuity all the way to ground. You could try running separate grounds with a length of wire and see if you get functionality back. Then, whatever ground you jumped with your added wire which gained you functionality you know is the open one. So long as you don't accidentally run a positive to ground you can't goof it.

I should add ... I'm an electronics tech ... But I still avoid auto electrical. If it's not something apparent it's a nightmare. Last time I had a vehicle with major electrical issues I just ripped it all out and made my own setup, haha.
 






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