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My 2WD 1998 XLT Project AGAIN (prerunner)

Discussion in 'Modified 1995-2001 Explorers' started by DirtJunky, October 10, 2013.

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    1. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
      FL
      City, State:
      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      Was able to build the radius arms and beams out of 1.75"x0.125" DOM tubing and 3/16" plating.
      Used 1/2" plating to weld the tubing to the D44 ends.

      20180505_102127.jpg

      The radius arm mounts were welded by Alex Kiss from Fierce Offroad.
      All heims are from Ruffstuff Specialties which are 1.25"

      20180505_102041.jpg
       
      Last edited: May 5, 2018
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    3. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
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      City, State:
      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      Better angle of the plates welded on the sides of beams and radius arms.
      Tubing: 1.75"x0.125"
      Plating: 3/16"

      20180505_102136.jpg

      Also made some new leaf spring top plates since I relocated rear shocks used 3/8" plating

      20180517_103621.jpg
       
      Last edited: May 17, 2018
    4. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
      FL
      City, State:
      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      Started putting them on and noticed i needed new beam mounts (made my own) but decided to use them for the time

      20180505_102148.jpg

      20180505_102157.jpg

      The Explorer has left the ground more than I can count...this is however the only image I have of it, about 3" off the ground

      20180517_103733.jpg
       
      Last edited: May 17, 2018
    5. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
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      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      After welding up all the suspension, felt comfortable enough to weld up a bumper since the fiberglass was so open.

      20180505_102215.jpg

      20180505_102224.jpg

      20180505_102233.jpg

      20180505_102323.jpg



      Started putting F-150 headlights in to make it look more complete

      20180505_102333.jpg

      20180505_102408.jpg

      20180514_165712.jpg

      Picture of rear bumper brackets 3/8" plating

      20180517_103645.jpg
       
      Last edited: May 17, 2018
    6. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
      FL
      City, State:
      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      The Explorer started feeling alot better at higher speeds offroad since geometry was alot closer. The y-steer was still restricting me.

      20180505_102343.jpg

      20180505_102351.jpg

      20180505_102400.jpg
       
    7. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
      FL
      City, State:
      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      Was time to start building rear end so i removed coilovers and bumpstops since it would be sitting for so long.

      20180505_102416.jpg

      20180505_102426.jpg

      Started realizing i would have to completely remove the wheel wells for the up travel of 37s
      Got some junk Nittos for mock up

      20180505_102438.jpg
       
    8. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
      FL
      City, State:
      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      The 35s are 35x12.5x15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on some steel 15x10 D-ring style wheels that ive used for spares so the 35 Generals didnt get flat spots
      Bought some 37x12.5x17 General Grabber X3 and 17x10 Method Racing bead locks

      20180505_102456.jpg

      20180517_103806.jpg
       
    9. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
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      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      After putting on the 37s i realized i had to remove the entire core support and had to build an engine cage while i was at it

      Screenshot_20170707-145028.png

      IMG_20180417_093043_926.jpg
       
    10. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
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      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      Removed everything from the firewall forward to start cage and gutted inside for internal cage

      20180505_102507.jpg

      IMG_20171217_133118_293.jpg

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      20180505_114202.jpg

      20180505_114212.jpg
       
    11. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
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      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      Cut the wheel weels from the rear door to 4" from tail light. Cut all the way up to the window support, will be replacing with plexiglas

      20180505_113750.jpg

      20180505_113757.jpg
       
    12. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
      FL
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      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      I dont have any "before" pictures of the Ford 9". I pulled it from a early F-150. It's a 31 spline big bearing 9"
      All the upgrades were purchased from Fierce Offroad and are mainly RuffStuff Specialties products.
      Ford 9" Backbone Truss
      3/4 ton disk brake swap
      Braided brake lines
      5.13 ring and pinion
      Locker
      Pinion guard
      Shock tabs
      Brake line tabs
      Limiter strap tabs
      5/8" wheel studs

      20180517_103756.jpg

      Florida has horrible humidity so after two weeks, it was completely covered in surface rust

      20180517_103838.jpg

      20180519_153300.jpg
       
      Last edited: May 19, 2018
    13. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
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      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      Swing steer is a W.I.Y. kit from Baker Fabrications
      Using 7/8 heims for steering, kept bending 5/8"

      20180517_103828.jpg

      Since I've beamed the explorer, ive gone threw a few different steering setups.
      •3/4 ton Tre steer with tie rods (which broke countless times)
      •Heims with only the Tre steer "y split"
      •Heims with solid steel 1.75" thick for "y split" which never broke. Just bent 5/8" bolts
       
      Last edited: June 5, 2018
    14. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
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      City, State:
      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      Since I want to keep my hatch on the Explorer I made a different kind of tire carrier. It's off to the side of the hatch but not so low that it will be my bottoming out point (still bumper)
      Used 1.75"x0.125" for bent tubing and 1.75"x0.25" for straight tubes (welding points) and a solid piece of 1.5" steel tubing about 11" long for the carrier to pivot on.
      Had three full grown adults sitting on it while lightly bouncing to make sure I wouldn't lose my tires when offroading

      20180517_103815.jpg
       
    15. WormsExplorer

      WormsExplorer Elite Explorer

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      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      98 4.0 ohv sport 5
      Looking good
       
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    16. DirtJunky

      DirtJunky Active Member

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      Location:
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      FL
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1998 Ford Explorer XLT
      Callsign:
      DirtJunky
      On the left is a 5/8" bolt from my steering that I was bending everyother time out wheeling. (1/2" bolt for a straight line comparison)
      This is what happens when your geometry is off

      20180520_130838.jpg
       
    17. 93XploderMS

      93XploderMS New Member

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      City, State:
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      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1993 Ford Explorer
      Nice, I’m looking at the work you are doing to put the engine cage with internal roll bar. That’s crazy!!!
       
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