My '94 extended cab

[mr cribb]

I have 4 now, and use all of them.

1 holds junk, 1 holds change, 1 hold spit bottle, 1 for a drink.

 

[Xeek]

ah a dipper huh lol
yea im just gonna go with the shorty. prob still later on tho. dont wanna mess with yanking everything out yet lol

 

[Xeek]

eh. im thinking do the first gen armrest bracket and arm rest, then build my own console around it. i want full length but i dont like how it looks(not my picture):

so making my own is probably best

 

[mr cribb]

I like the big cup holder but that's about all. It has too much width up top near the dash or it's too tall, one of the the is making it weird.

 

[Xeek]

yea both pretty much. you cant center it much so it looks offset. and it does block use of the ashtray. i dont smoke, but having that not function would bug me

 

[Xeek]

finally got the ohc and the visors working

 

[mr cribb]

I need to get mine installed. I have had all the parts for a while. I'm kinda waiting to get a newer headliner, so I can knock it all out at once.

 

[Xeek]

yea. i knocked all mine out at once also. just ran the wires down the a-piler for later.

well. i actually lost some light. the two bulbs in the ohc are single leds bouncing off a reflective housing. i really need to get some 360* ones. prob have to convert the bulbs to the newer style if i want to tho.. all the light at my feet is pretty much gone now due to it. but the bulbs in the stock dome light deff add a lot of light.

this was taken with a real camera, so its a little better

 

[Xeek]

painted some trim. still need to do the bumper valance. and mothers back-to-black on my window rubber

 

[Xeek]

does anyone know where to find battery cables? i wanted to use my exploders but being the battery is on the other side, not gonna work.

autozone discontinued the positive cable and the neg cable is $99!!

 

[mr cribb]

does anyone know where to find battery cables? i wanted to use my exploders but being the battery is on the other side, not gonna work.

autozone discontinued the positive cable and the neg cable is $99!!

Have you looked at LMC truck or rockauto?

Both maybe over-priced, but a thought in the right direction.

 

[Xeek]

looks like rock auto has them. lmc truck is sold by lengths and you make your own.
ill prob buy the cable from lmc and make my own. but for now i got rid of the cruddy positive cable end and the negative cable end thats stock and broke the tightening bolt on last night.

so just new terminals, cables are the same. hopefully it makes a big difference

 

[Anime]

I've got a set I was going to use:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366599

Not sure if the Ranger has those same connectors on the cables though.

 

[Xeek]

thanks, but they wont work. my exploders are brand new basically and i wanted to use them. but the ranger is setup differently, battery is on the drivers side, solenoid and fusebox is of the passenger side. so the cables are to short on

 

[mr cribb]

That's what I did with my xploders batt cables, just put new ends on.... I know I should replace them,but with money tight you do what you can afford.

After pissing around with the positive cable snaking it out to take to advance to do a match and an epic fail later, I decided it was easier to replace the ends.

 

[Anime]

Instead of buying the cable from LMC, you could buy some of the clearance battery cables from Rockauto, then either cut them for the cable, or just shorten them and use the stock ends that work.

You can always use mil-spec or quick-release battery terminals and just have regular looped ends crimped on, or even use the universal cables at the parts store for the main wires, and keep the dinky factory wires with the special connectors if they're in decent shape.

and mothers back-to-black on my window rubber

That stuff is useless. I've stopped using armor-all too. After several years of use, it actually harms plastic and rubber rather than protects it.

 

[Xeek]

cribb, not sure why they didnt have them. autozone does anyway. they stocked them both normally at mine..
and well i can afford new cables. the fact that i cant just buy them at autozone is whats screwing me.

im just gonna take my time and get a junkyard set to mock with. make new ones, repin the neg cable plug into new wires, solder everything, heatshrink, enclosed battery terminals. make sure theyll be good and last. but i just needed to do something for now so my neg cable didnt fly off when i hit a bump lol.

i still have the old battery in the bed, autozone said it was a good battery and had 12.6v on it. i need to bring it to one of the regular workers, i dont know that guy very well. so being in the bed of the truck, it slid and got wedged under my toolbox... went to slide it out and sparks went everywhere lol. so i strapped it down this time lol

and good to know on the mothers. it works, but i noticed it fades after awhile(4 months). the rubber is the only parts id need it on. id be painting all the plastic/metal. know anything else that works?

 

[Anime]

This stuff sounds like it's made for the job:

http://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett-rubber-care-stick.html

Meguiars also makes their M40 rubber cleaner/conditioner.

Personally I just use soap and water and cleaning multiple times removes any surface oxidation. It's not really possible to restore damaged weatherstripping if it's old, dry, cracked, etc. I think using stuff on rubber that is otherwise fine (like what people do with tire dressing) is what does the stuff in since it removes the chemical protection designed in from the factory. I'm sure some stuff makes it look shiny, and even armor-all can add volume to old rubber for a little while, but after seeing the effects of a few years of use, I just leave the stuff alone and clean it if it needs it.

 

[Xeek]

finally out of the exploder. gonna be rebult and donated to the ranger.

 

[mr cribb]

Did the headers make any improvement that you noticed? I'm still rocking the original manifolds.