My 97 Exploder Pre-runneresk Project...

[Girodisc]

No there is a rod incert inside of the original pieces to extend the arm. Then there is a pipe that was cut in half the bottom being 3" longer then the extension to over hang. The lower portion of the pipe was seam welded to both the original part and the entire length of the rod extension. The upper portion if the pipe cut just a hair inside of the extension was the seam welded to the original pieces and the seam weld from the lower pipe on the extension piece. Kinda hard to explain. I added a cross brace but I had to cut it off and I need to change it because it was almost touching the spring.

Got just coming in from the shop now at 1:30. Got about 80% of the x-member done. I still need to add a couple gussets and the washers. Got the drivers side LCA done and did a final install of the suspension on the drivers side to chech everything off before I grind all the welds, add a couple last min tweeks and paint them. I plan to paint them in POR15 and then do a top coat of silver rattle can so I can visually see any cracking welds as I do it's shake down. I am very condident that I built a good system for my truck and I can't wait to try it out. Also I put the torsion spring in to aid the shock because I think it will help. Pics tomorrow for the 3 people that even look at this thread.

Johann@girodisc

 

[sport97]

Pics tomorrow for the 3 people that even look at this thread.

I'm following along. Can't wait to see how it works. I'm not sure if I missed it, but what,if anything are you going to do about the width of the rear?

 

[Girodisc]

Here are the pics from last night.

The start of the bracing on the -Member. Still need to do the washers and add a few gussets.

Finished the underside of the LCA. I have 2 more pieces to weld and they are finished so I will do that right before paint.

And lastly I got the drivers side in for the last pre-fit before it all gets grinded and painted.

Johann @ Girodisc

 

[danwaters]

So you made the cross member permanent? You can bolt it through the LCA mounts to make it removable. All you need is two short angle cut pieces of tube welded to some 2" or so unplated washers and then bolt them to the back side of the lower mounts then fit a tube in between the two points. Much easier to remove than cutting all that crap out. Did you not decide to lengthen the shock tabs to run past the sheer weld on the arm?

 

[Brandon@BTF-fab]

Aside from oil pan removal, I don't see an issue making the brace permanent. The shock tabs aren't an issue, IMO. With all the ribs on the underside of the top plate the butt welded plate is no longer an issue. Top plate would bend really easily without all the ribbing whether it has a weld or not. The vertical ribs take almost all the stress now. I would like to see some plating over the welds on the front and back of the arms, but even if you don't it will likely be ok.
Your project started out pretty scary looking, but I think it's going to be ok now.
What spring rate are you running on the coilovers? The torsions aren't needed if you have enough spring rate.

 

[Girodisc]

650 and I can go for more or less if need be. I was thinking the torsion springs being left in would help to take some of the stress of the center of the LCA. Also they are progressive which might help for off road stuff. You were right. The torsion bars by themselves came about a half inch before the bump stop before they started to lift the truck I am glad I swapped to coils. I think having them in there can't hurt so why not.

Got a huge amount of stuff done. Finished everything but a few last gussets formers x-member before I ran out of welding gas. Got everything POR15ed and the rotors/ bearings installed. Tomorrow I'll finish the x-member and put the coils and brakes on. I hope to gave the truck off jack stands for pics and then I can flip it around to do the rear.

Johann@girodisc

 

[Girodisc]

I made the braces on the X-Member wide enough so the oil pan can still drop out. It shouldn't cause me any issues. I preferred to weld them in because I thing it will be stronger then a bolt on piece. I also fabricated it in a 3rd of the time.

So here are the pics from last night. Both sides done and in POR 15. Tonight I'll have pics of the front end on the ground. My plan was to back it out of the shop and flip it around to do the rear but I think I am going to do the front fender flares so if I want to take it for a test drive I can without a cop flipping out on me. I think I am going to do both front and rear flares this week and then start the rear end this weekend. Tonight I am going to swap the rear brake line and swap all the brakes so I don't have to re-bleed the system for when I start the rear end.

Johann @ Girodisc

 

[Girodisc]

So moment of truth... Got the brakes and shocks in:

Then I got the tires on and got it settled. Did a quick bleed on the brakes so I could at least move it around. Drove it down the street and back and it felt really good. It settled about 2", steering angles are about the same as stock maybe a little worse, and the suspension is soft but side to side is actually better then stock. It feels pretty stout but when you go over a bump the front dosen't bob up and down. Just absorbs it and then slowly returns to riding height. I am sure the handling will be a little different once it gets an ass lift but so far it seems to be a complete success. Looks really funny with the rear still being un-modified but I will tackle the SOA kit this week so I can do the fender flares. Anyways here are the pics of the finished front suspension..

I hope you have enjoyed the first part of my project.

Johann @ Girodisc

 

[4rd4life]

dude! i just caught this now and read the whole thing.. amazing work! cant wait to see the rear. what r your plans for the flares boxing them out?

 

[sport97]

Congrats on getting the front done! That thing is crazy. Its going to look great, and hopefully perform great once you get the back done.

 

[Girodisc]

Yeah I and just finishing up the concepts for the body work right now I'll have them posted up in a few.

Johann @ Girodisc

 

[King$nake]

That thing is BADASS, considering you did it all yourself with minimal cost. Good for you man, I respect your willingness to go out and do it.

Also, definitely listen to Brandon @ BTF in this thread, the guy knows his stuff for sure.

 

[Girodisc]

So here is the concept of what I am thinking for the sheet metal body work. Should look very unique to say the least.

Johann @ Girodisc

 

[danwaters]

Well ya got it on 'er wheels. That's good. Id say crank the preload way down and lower the ride height. It looks as though you are close to full extension on the arms. If it feels really soft its not a spring thing because a 650 on the coilover and the torsion is already too much spring. Its the valving in the actual shock that needs to be more aggressive.

 

[Girodisc]

Its not bouncy. It feels like its working. Absorbing the bump and then returning to right height. I could lower it in the front a bit more but I have 2" of so its almost the same angle as when I did my torsion twist. I am going to leave it alone till after I finish the rear so I can set the height based on that but I should be able to run it where it is without a problem. The torsion bar on the road isn't doing anything its only there to help with the big bumps from off road use. I guess you'd have to feel it yourself to give a true "experts" opinion.

thanx..

Johann @ Girodisc

 

[Girodisc]

So for the rear I have been pondering what to do about adding a little more support to the rear. I think I am going to box in the front leaf spring perches and make a set of beefed up shackles that mimic the stock pieces just stronger. For the axle I already have a basic flip kit but I think I am going to do a custom axle truss/ shock mount to stiffen the axle. I have the rear shocks I got that closely match the stock shocks extended and compressed lengths and I have those 6.5" travel shocks that I was going to use for the front. I was pondering the idea of using them as dampers for side-to-side moment of the axle. My exploder has one stock and obviously its not going to work once it drops down 5". I was thinking I could put them at a bit of an angle so they could help with main damping and side-to-side damping but become neutral when the rear end compressed a lot. I should be able to get mounting points for both sets off the truss I was going to make and then just some tabs welded to the rail.

I think I am going to make a quick 3d rendering of my idea.

Johann @ Girodisc

 

[Girodisc]

So here is stock. At least what I can remember of it: Do not pay attention to scale there is none this is purely to discuss the consept of the system not whether or not it will fit leave that up to me.

This is what I want to do:

I'll be starting the tear down of the rear and measuring to make the truss piece. Let me know your thoughts.

Johann @ Girodisc

 

[Brandon96]

Forgive me for my lack of knowledge of PreRunner-style suspension set ups.. But are you going to run some sort of track bar or ladder bar setup on the rear? I wouldn't trust just a set of u-bolts and a guide pin to hold that puppy still. It seems to me you'd definitely want that extra stability out back.

Excellent build so far my friend!

 

[carlover]

Forgive me for my lack of knowledge of PreRunner-style suspension set ups.. But are you going to run some sort of track bar or ladder bar setup on the rear? I wouldn't trust just a set of u-bolts and a guide pin to hold that puppy still. It seems to me you'd definitely want that extra stability out back.

Excellent build so far my friend!

Standard leaf setup with pins/ubolts holds up just fine. I ran a simple leaf setup for quite awhile and it held up through massive amounts of abuse.

To the OP you might want to revise your truss a little. The center section of the 8.8 is cast and not the best thing to try to weld to. You could make it go from axle tube to axle tube without welding to the center section.

 

[Girodisc]

Ya I was planning on just doing the side plates out of plate steel and run a bar across the top of the pumpkin. I just made thus up quick to illustrate my idea.