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My 97 SOHC 5 speed sport street/drag build

Discussion in '"Serious Explorer - Sport Trac - Ranger - Street T' started by Twisted1, December 22, 2014.

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    1. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      I have the rpcaster kit fuel rails.
      www.bansheesuperchargerkit.com

      I have a return system, and I use a Mallory fuel pressure regulator.
      Walbro Fuel Pump I got from Summit racing.
      I am running the factory fuel pressure approximately 39.15 psi engine off pump running. Drops to about 29-30 psi at Idle with 20 inches vacuum, goes up to about 56-57 with 16-17 lbs of boost.
      The Mallory fuel pressure regulator is adjustable( It is good for up to 100psi) and rebuildable.
      There is also a boost/vacuum reference port so it lowers fuel pressure when the throttle plate is closed to compensate for high manifold vacuum like the factory one does. It also raises fuel pressure in proportion to boost. I had to seal the adjustment screw threads because they were leaking vacuum/boost but most adjustable regulators have the same problem.
      The one thing I have not done yet is the fuel lines. The flow through mine is probably maxed out, If you are planning on making 400-450 you will need to increase the size (inside diameter) of the fuel lines, that was what 2000streetrod was probably thinking. I know Ahodges and Dono have done their fuel lines, they both have V8's though so the parts may not be exactly what works on ours or maybe they are - not sure since I have not done mine.
       
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    3. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      When the time comes for bigger lines it will have all new stainless hard line and braided with all AN fittings along with a fuel cell. I'm toying with the idea of seeing how much hp my stock block will take before failing and having my second engine all built and ready to drop in. I ordered a Walbro 255lph pump tonight (I love summit!) And I have an NHRA/IHRA approved sealed battery box on its way also. The battery is being relocated to the hatch area so it has to be in a very specific sealed battery box, vented outside and I have to install a battery master switch on the back end of the truck now. I guess I'm all in at this point, it's almost time to see what it'll do!
       
    4. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Battery relocation

      Please post pictures of your battery relocation installation.

      I have been considering that modification and if I ever end up needing more room in the engine compartment for a larger water meth or intercooler tank I may just do it.

      There is an adaptor for the fuel pump to attach the walbro to the explorer sending unit assembly. That is if you get the pump with the larger connector and your sending unit assembly has the smaller one.
       
    5. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      I'm moving the battery to get some more weight transfered to the rear and also to open up some real estate for the turbo. I'm going to be pulling all the ABS out over the winter also and hopefully have plenty of room at that point for the turbo and piping. If not it will be mounted remotely under the truck. The biggest issue I'm having with the battery relocation is having to drill/cut into the body to install the switch. Keep in mind if you do relocate you'll have to do the same to be compliant with NHRA and track rules. You also need either the Moroso sealed plastic battery box or the summit equivalent. Both were $67.99 so I went with the known brand. There are other usable box's that go up in price from there, just be sure they say IHRA/NHRA approved on them. I'm hoping the fuel pump works with no other parts because the install kit for it is back ordered almost a month.
       
    6. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      The part # on the fuel pump I ordered is WALBRO GSS342BX
      And this is the battery box I got
      74051.jpg
       
    7. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      battery relocation

      That looks like a nice box, if you have a part number please post it for future reference.

      Did you order a switch yet?
      Maybe you can mount the switch on the rear bumper instead of drilling a hole in the body?
       
    8. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      The rear bumper is coming off in favor of a light weight panel/rollpan of some sort. I've got Hella Marine battery switches on the shelf at our marina which is what I've used on all my previous builds. They have a removable key that makes it a security feature also. Shut it off and take the battery key and good luck hot wiring anything

      This is where I mounted it on my mud drag truck. left side of the pass tail light where the hatch would normally be. I cant mount it in the same place on this one
      Explorer rear finished 1.jpg
       
    9. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      Battery box part # is MOR-74051 through summit
       
    10. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      Battery box and fuel pump are here!

      I'm waiting for a few more pieces to come in and I'll be spending all next week on upgrades before the dyno
      20150730_113206.jpg

      20150730_114755.jpg

      20150730_114814.jpg

      20150730_114826.jpg

      20150730_114845.jpg

      20150730_113215.jpg
       
    11. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      No clue why all those pics are upside down? They're all right side up on my phone
       
    12. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      99mm tb

      This thing is massive! 20150730_173244.jpg

      20150730_173231.jpg
       
    13. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Fuel injector sizing

      A 920 MAF count with your stock 55 mm MAF sensor corresponds to 23.7 lbs air/min or 1422 lbs air/hr. Assuming a WOT AFR of 0.8 lambda (11.8:1) that equates to (1422/11.8 =) 120.5 lbs fuel/hr. With 6 injectors the requirement is 120.5/6 = 20.1 lbs fuel/hr per injector. I think the max rating of injectors is at 85% duty cycle. Assuming that then your 24 lbs/hr injectors would only be at a 20.1/(24/.85) = 71% duty cycle.

      If your boosted goal is 400 rwhp and assumed drivetrain efficiency is 85% then that is 470 bhp or 78.4 bhp/cylinder. Using Stan Weiss' Table and BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) of 0.55 for an intercooled turbocharged engine and an injector race duty cycle of 95% then you need an injector flow rate of 46 lbs/hr.

      If you use 450 rwhp and an injector street duty cycle of 80% then you need an injector flow rate of 60 lbs/hr.
       
    14. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      You must be an engineer! Lol, that is an impressive bit of information and I am very appritiative. I did some number crunching myself and surprisingly came up with the exact numbers you did as far as injector requirements. Of course yours reads out like a Nasa manual and my method of getting the end numbers would look more like a child's drawing done with crayons in comparison. Haha
      I know I don't need the 90mm MAF yet but I will soon so why buy one smaller than i need in the end to get me by for now. I would like to upgrade my injectors however putting 60#'s in there now would do more harm than good. I'm still thinking if I can increase my fuel pressure to 60-70psi so my current 24# injectors should be the equivalent to a 30# injector with stock fuel pressure. This is all based on factory specs that the 19# injectors used in the return less system flow 25lb/hr withe the 60-70psi fuel pressure.
      I've disconnected the vacuum line off my FPR which SHOULD HAVE brought my fuel pressure up to the max 40psi at idle. I am going to mess around with one of my spare regulators next week and see if I can modify it into an adjustable regulator. Hopefully I can at least bump up my fuel pressure enough to fix my current problem and have it retuned correctly.
       
      Last edited: July 31, 2015
    15. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      drivability

      The only negative for the 90 mm LMAF is a slight reduction in drivability. There are only 30 data entries allowed in the PCM MAF transfer function table. The greater the range of the MAF sensor the larger the step size between entries. However, the PCM interpolates between points to increase accuracy. I made the steps smaller for low airflows (when the graph is most nonlinear) and larger steps for the higher airflows (when the graph is more linear). I didn't detect any reduction in drivability with my LMAF90.

      I picked the Siemans Deka 60 lb/hr injectors (even though they can flow way more than I need) because they have good low duty cycle control. For a strip vehicle that is less important.

      My Haynes manual states that for the return type fuel system the pressure should be 40 to 50 psi with the vacuum hose detached. At WOT your vacuum should be very close to 0.
       
    16. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      vacuum line

      Which means pulling the vacuum line off is only affecting the fuel pressure at Idle, that wont help at WOT.

      Also the vacuum line is there to lower the fuel pressure in proportion to engine vacuum to compensate for the vacuum sucking on the injector tip so without it the pressure drop across the injectors will not be correct. It would be creating a problem, not fixing one.
       
    17. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      That was my thought on unplugging the vacuum line but I had 2 old time hot rodders arguing the point with me so I gave it a try. I didn't notice any changes either way good or bad. If I can manage to thread a bolt with a spring attached to the end in place of the vacuum line I should be able to increase the line pressure by turning the screw in like you would on your regulator. I haven't had a chance to cut open any of my spares yet though so I'm not sure if it's possible yet.
       
    18. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      Junkyard shopping spree!

      I cut my vacation a little short today so I could get home and to a junkyard on my day off. I scored a set of 27lb injectors at a buddies garage out of a 2001 Saab 9-3 turbo (technically 2 sets). Those should be plenty for me until it goes turbo and for the $50 donation to him I'm OK with that expense for peace of mind.

      20150803_202051.jpg

      I also grabbed a 70mm TB at a local junk yard off a 5.4l F150 for $50. It looks close enough that it should work with a little throttle cable modification. Junk SOHC TB on left, F150 TB flipped upside down on right. I'm not sure how you guys are running a 75mm TB with your stock intake since any larger than 65mm you need to port out the manifold and any larger than 70mm and you get into the sealing o ring. Until I upgrade to an aluminum intake manifold this will work fine. Now time to hustle and get everything in the truck this weekend because it goes on the dyno for tuning next Monday.

      I got a new dual electric fan set up while I was at the saab shop also. $40 and it has a usable shroud for my set up.
      20150803_202134.jpg

      20150803_202229.jpg

      20150803_202103.jpg

      20150803_202307.jpg
       
    19. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      I've been busy!

      My daughter has been on a week and a half long vacation so I took advantage and got some serious progress made on the explorer.

      Here's the cleaned and epoxied 70mm F150 throttle body. I used a product called "Marine Tex" to fill the vent on the backside of the TB. The stuff is great, it's something we use often at the marina and is hard enough to drill and tap once cured.
      20150806_220439.jpg

      Here's my port matched intake after I opened it up a bit compared to an OEM manifold
      20150806_210010.jpg

      I had a mystery coolant leak I've been trying to track down for about a month now and finally had time to tear down the engine and find the issue. Ended up being a seeping water pump and a split thermostat housing. I tore it down completely and cleaned up the rust stains to make sure there were no other issues
      20150805_191517.jpg

      I took advantage of having things apart to shed some un needed weight. AC and all lines/condenser is gone, cruise control and all brackets are gone, battery relocated to the rear..... here it is all back together after the new cooling system parts, 27lb injectors installed, 70mm F150 TB and new electric fan set up.
      20150807_230228.jpg

      Here's the new belt routing minus the AC compressor. Managed to find one first shot off the shelf.
      20150807_230431.jpg
       

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    20. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      Wait there's more!

      I apologize for the sideways pics. They are all straight on my phone and not sure how to flip them back.

      So I may have lost a bit more weight in other area's of the truck as well. There's the new NHRA approved battery box mounted and the emergency Hella battery shut off switch mounted in one of the plate light sockets.
      20150807_225749.jpg

      20150807_230027.jpg

      20150807_230041.jpg

      20150807_230102.jpg

      The switch fit perfectly and I didn't even have to drill a hole. Here it is in the on position
      20150807_230118.jpg

      Here it is off with the key removed.
      20150807_230132.jpg

      Over all I dropped about 500 lbs off the truck this week and freed up a couple HP with pulling the AC. I'll have some actual dyno numbers for you Monday night
       
    21. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      My buddies V8 sport

      My buddy came by with his V8 swapped sport to get some help on a couple things and show off his new/used wheels. 20150807_192230.jpg

      20150807_192148.jpg

      They are staggered 17x10 front and 17x12 rears with a 315/35r17 rear tire. I love the lip on them!
      20150807_192255.jpg

      He ended up leaving with my TFS stage 2 cam, crane beehive springs, ARP bolts, stainless reinforced head gaskets and a few other performance parts I bought for mine. So stay tuned because he'll be running that one at the track as soon as I help him build the engine. He has nitrous also....lots of nitrous!
       
    22. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Warm air intake

      When the vehicle is sitting still the engine bay temperature rapidly increases to 150 deg F. If you put a shield around the filter to isolate it from the engine compartment so it pulls air thru the opening behind the headlight the IAT will be much closer to ambient air temperature increasing power off the line.
       
    23. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      Intake temp stays right at ambient temp unless it's sitting in traffic. I've been monitoring that close because that was my concern. With a cardboard test shield in place the intake air temp was actually higher. I have no inner fenders so it's able to pull fresh clean air from there.
       
    24. Twisted1

      Twisted1 Active Member

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      The headlight is also being pulled at the track to get more cold air into it. Once I pull the light the shield set up would probably help but for now it's making it like an oven. I was also testing things on a near 100° day so 90% of the heat was probably transferring from the hood
       
    25. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      my intake

      I added two 1 3/4 in. dia. ports to the stock air filter enclosure base.
      AirFilterBase.jpg
      They pull air from the front.
      2INLETS.JPG
      Then I modified the enclosure top to fit my intake tube.
      AirFilterCover2.jpg
      AirFilterCover6.jpg
       
    26. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Explorers

      Looks like you got a lot of work done!
      Turned out nice looking under the hood and in the back.
      There is a lower aluminum thermostat housing for sale here on the forum that is a great replacement for the plastic one that breaks all the time. I have one on my supercharged explorer and will never go back to the plastic.

      How does the battery box mount to the floor?

      If you have access to a computer with windows you can download the pictures, turn them in windows photo viewer, delete them from the post and then upload the new turned ones(under edit post).

      Can you get a photo of your buddy's truck/rims from the back with a little bit of side showing? I would like to see how far the wheels come out in relationship to the flares, and how far they go in towards the leaf springs.
       

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