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My new 347

Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by Dono, May 22, 2015.

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    1. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      I like it, that has bigger clutches in it, important for a heavy vehicle for sure.

      Try to measure your available space for another cooler first, I bet there's enough for the OEM units. I'm planning to use the biggest one I have for my 99, and one similar in size to that long one, in my 98 with an IC. Put it down low if needed, I've been planning to place the IC low behind the bumper inlet.
       
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    3. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      ok, I had a look tonight at the task ahead.
      First, I noticed the line out on the transmission goes to the top of the radiator.....all hard line. I'm going to have to cut it. Once cut, I need some way to adapt to transmission flex hose. I found a 3/8" hard line compression fitting that I can adapt to 3/8" hose barb. Thoughts on the compression fitting holding up?

      Second, I think I'll try to add a second factory trans cooler in parallel, Why not? I think it would look, well.....Factory. I'm hoping Tim has one in his mini grave yard I can have. lol

      Anyone have suggestions? Remember, my goal is to reduce line pressure. I only see positive effects from this design.

      compression fitting to soft line.jpg

      hard line.jpg

      factory cooler.jpg

      trans cooler setup.jpg
       
    4. skpyle

      skpyle Elite Explorer

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      Hello Dono,

      I recently installed a second stock transmission cooler in my 1999 Limited AWD. I only removed the grille assembly to mount it. I used 'rivet-nuts' for the mounting holes. The installation on the driver's side more or less mirrored the stock installation on the passenger's side. I plumbed both coolers in parallel.
      Overall, it was not terrible.
      I am not at my computer now. When I am, I will post photos.
       
    5. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Excellent! Thanks.
      My main concern is cutting that hard line to tee in a pressure sender and making sure I'm not running both aux coolers thru the trans cooler.
      I'd never have thought that cooler restriction could be an issue. What do I know?
       
    6. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      oooooh i know i do. wanna know why?













      it's coming off your old black truck! BAWAHAHAHAHA!!!!!! :D :D :D

      im going to see if joe has a flare tool for the lines. that way there will be no way the fitting will come off
       
    7. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Of course I do Tim!

      edit: I just googled 'rivet nut'. Pretty cool. I think I'll try that. Looks like a home made installer is super easy to make also.
       
      Last edited: May 17, 2018
    8. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      rivet nuts are great when new, but have one not clamp down properly, or seize onto the bolt after a few years and watch pleasure turn to full on rage trying to remove the nut. as me how i know.
       
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    9. skpyle

      skpyle Elite Explorer

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      Hi Dono! Here are photos of the second trans cooler install:
      Please ignore how filthy and rusty my Ex is. She is a daily driver, and came from up North.


      100_2391.JPG
      Driver's side core support, where the second trans cooler will be going.


      100_2392.JPG
      Core support flange, where I will be putting rivet nuts for mounting the cooler. Look to the left, you can see a rivet nut I already installed for the upper mounting leg.


      100_2393.JPG
      Better picture of the upper rivet nut.


      100_2394.JPG
      Lower rivet nuts installed. I did it this way because there is no way to get a drill in there horizontally without removing the bumper. Which I wasn't going to do.


      100_2395.JPG
      Second cooler installed.


      100_2396.JPG
      Closer view of second cooler installed.


      100_2397.JPG
      Upper mounting leg of second cooler.


      100_2398.JPG
      Black plastic trim panel around the coolers.


      100_2399.JPG
      Stock cooler.


      100_2400.JPG
      Second cooler. I trimmed the black plastic trim panel to fit.


      100_2401.JPG
      Underside of mounting of second cooler.


      100_2402.JPG
      Hoses and fittings.


      100_2403.JPG
      Hoses and fittings.


      100_2404.JPG
      Remote spin on transmission filter plumbed in before the two air-to-oil coolers.


      100_2405.JPG
      Hoses and fittings.


      100_2406.JPG
      Hoses and fittings.


      If I had it to do again, I would have tried to make the hoses and fittings installation and routing a little neater. And/or painted the brass fittings. If you look closely at the front of my Ex, you can see the fittings through the openings in the lower bumper cover.
      I plumbed the two coolers in parallel, with equal length hoses to each in an attempt for even flow. The hot transmission oil goes to the in-tank water-to-oil cooler, to the spin on filter, to both air-to-oil coolers, then back to the transmission.

      If I had the bumper off, I could have installed the rivet nuts horizontally in the core support, and used the existing holes in the lower flange of the second cooler. However, it worked out just fine.


      Dono, I hope this information helps you!
       
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    10. skpyle

      skpyle Elite Explorer

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      Very good point, vroomzoombomm. These rivet nuts are aluminum. I squeezed the h*ll outta the installation tool. Actually, I bent the installation tool, but that is neither here nor there. The bolts I used are new cad plated, and I coated them with antiseize. Hopefully they won't be an issue.

      Also, I rank seized bolts in rivet nuts right up there with lock nuts on carriage bolts in square holes in sheet metal. Good for speedy installation when new, good for hours of howling frustration when old.
       
    11. tireman40

      tireman40 New Member

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      That's pretty
       
    12. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Your installation looks great, and yes its helpful. Thanks for posting.

      If I'm not going to use rivet nuts, I don't know what else would be more effective. Looking at that pre-drilled hole on that core support, that rivet nut looks like it fits perfectly. The only thing I am going to do differently is cut the hard line going to the top of the radiator and plumb in one side of the cooler there. It's way more work, but I have the motor out and have the room.

      I'm on the fence at the moment about adding a trans filter while I'm at it. I'll look for a spot for mounting one. I have my bumper off, but think the inter-cooler is in the way and space is becoming an issue to keep adding stuff.
       
    13. skpyle

      skpyle Elite Explorer

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      Glad to help, Dono.
      Look at the photo of my filter for reference: I mounted it to the frame rail just in front of the black plastic trim that covers the bottom of the core support, radiator, and A/C condenser. I think there were two holes there already and I added a third. it is tight, but I have room to run a large WIX 51515 filter and not have it hang down below the bumper cover.

      Here are a couple of better photos of the remote filter install:
      2014-10-24 001.jpg 2014-10-24 003.jpg
       
    14. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      I think I have that spot free. This little project will give me something to do this weekend. Not too much thought involved, so there might be beer involved. Thanks for the great pics and ideas.
       
    15. skpyle

      skpyle Elite Explorer

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      You are quite welcome! I am always tinkering, and can't leave well enough alone on my Explorer. Hence the remote filter and extra cooler.
       
    16. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I used Rivnuts to hold the plate to the rear hatch, and to hold the custom E-brake cable mounts to the rock sliders. Been years, and they are fine. I am in a high humidity region, and it gets cold, not your cold, but in the teens. I wouldn't hesitate to use them myself. If they do seize up, you just grind the bolt heads off, and drill them out.

      The one tip I can give with them, is the holes drilled, need to be perfect sized for the nut you use. Too big, and they wont clamp, too tight, and you can't compress them to hold. For thicker metals over 1/8", you can't use the smaller ones, and you need the real two handed tool, that resembles a bolt cutter. The handheld tool that looks like a small rivet gun, is fine for smaller rivnuts, in thinner gauge metals.There is also a trick using a nut spacer, and 2 wrenches, if you don't have the tool. Youtube vids show how to do this.

      I recently purchased a couple hundred 1/4" Rivnuts and bolts for a current project. Cheapest place I found them & the tool, is from Amazon. Harbor Freight sells a handheld tool, with some assorted rivnuts included for $20 USD.
       
    17. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      ive had them spin in roof racks, and mirrors off the top of my head. not fun. i am wounding if u clips like used for bolting fenders onto the fender apron would work. i can always grab some of those while im getting the cooler.
       
    18. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      The OEM self tapping bolts work well in any thick steel, the thicker sandwiched parts of the radiator they would hold onto. Those bolts are rare, older Fords have them on the coil brackets, fender starter solenoids. We have four in the frame holding the big plastic air dam under the radiator support. Those four are big and great for use in the frame etc.

      For the trans line, flare them to match the OEM end type(rear end at trans), which match the steel 3/8" fuel lines you can buy from parts stores. Use o-rings in the flare fittings to seal better without having to torque the fittings so tight.

      There's a perfect spot for a filter behind each frame horn, mounted to the radiator support(bolts in the pocket where the frame mount is). With the bumper off, you can easily get at the radiator support there.

      RF oil filter mounting.jpg

      Projectthread110.JPG
       
    19. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      I'll try flairing again, but my last attempt was a Fail, with a capital F. I know flairing like factory would be best.
      The last time, I borrowed a tool, and the line would just slide in the clamp.
      Here's the one I'll try this time:
      Double Flaring Tool Kit | Princess Auto
       
    20. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      The quality of the flared in is related directly to the tool quality. The clamp section is the most important, cheap brands are more likely to not hold the line well.

      I have a cheap tool kit also, and I borrowed a good brand version when I did the ABS lines of a 95 Crown Vic(I added ABS to the car). I flared four ends in the middle of the car to join two full length lines(4 channel ABS system), which I had to cut to remove from donor cars. The fittings I created didn't leak fortunately, it's still working.

      You can do it, double flare the ends for a best result quality. Practice a few times with spare line, it just takes a few to get used to doing it.
       
    21. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Don't cut the line... Unless you really want leaks.
      Just add the second cooler where the hoses already are.

      You should test pressure before you do anything.
      What if your are not hitting 80 psi line pressure and there is another problem causing the repeated thrust bearing failure.
       
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    22. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Ditto, I'd maintain the radiator cooler at least until you have a method(T'stat) to control flow to the other coolers.
       
    23. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      I have no idea how I can test line pressure without cutting the line. Its hard line all the way from the line out of the trans to the top of the radiator.
      I'm open to suggestions.

      I agree its not exactly ideal making more joints than necessary.
       
    24. delexploder

      delexploder Elite Explorer

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      ditch the factory lines all together and go with braided line and A/N fittings with a tee on both in and out and pressure guages on both , use a B&M cooler with a fan , this is what my friend runs on his turbo 347 4r70w mustang
       
    25. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Funny, Tim and I discussed braided line. I was just concerned about keeping it secure and out of the way of things.
      This might be the way to go though.

      The flair tool was a fail. I ended up using the compression fitting on one of the lines going to the aux cooler as a test as I had previously shortened the hard line due to inter cooler space issues. I think they actually work really well. I'll only know when its under line pressure though.

      I'm still back on the 'do I cut that line out from the trans to the rad?'
      I think I have to if I'm going to check that line pressure. And, If I need cut that line with the motor in, at a minimum the rad will have to come out. More research required. At a minimum, the second cooler is going in in the same configuration as skpyle. That config doesn't cut any hard lines.

      edit:
      This might be the easiest way to start, and not cut the hard line unless it becomes a requirement.
       
      Last edited: May 18, 2018
    26. GoldV8Ranger

      GoldV8Ranger New Member

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      Hey Dono, Ive been through the whole new transmssion lines from the transmission up to the radiator. DONT USE THE COMPRESSION FITTINGS. I jst finished my V8 swap into my ranger and i had two of those compressions on there to scab a couple pieces together and within a week of driving, the heads of those fittings cracked and started leaking. I know its a pain in the a** but flare all fittings and get the correct screw together fittings that you can use pipe thread sealant on and never have to worry about it again
       

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