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My new 347

Teaser pic. Should ship today.
More to come when I get my hands on it.

Where's that hard-on Smilie? :eek:

Professionally built stock bottom end by Ford Strokers 28oz imbalance crank
Wiseco pistons, shooting for around 9.6 to 1 comp.
gt40p heads ported (by Thumper) with 1.94/1.54 SS undercut valves and upgraded springs. Intake ports measured 140cc
Custom cam designed with my rear mount turbo in mind

28oz Damper DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth
TCS Torque converter shooting for 2400 (1800 stock) stall. Single over-sized clutch for lockup to try to get that turbo spooling, and weight moving.
Trick Flow Track Heat intake
Scorpion Endurance Series Rocker Arms SCC-SCP3021BL
Rocker Arm Channel Kit M-6588-A50
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kit M-6529-A302
Head Dowels TFS-51400420
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters 851-16
Pushrod Length Checker TFS-9000
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits M-6529-A302
water pump reverse rotation GMB-125-1960
Oil Pump Melling M68
ARP Head Studs @ 80lbs w moly
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kits 1 54-7904
ARP High Flexplate Bolt Kits 100-2901
PCV Valve EV127A
push rods: Chromoly, 5/16 in. Diameter, 6.250 in. Length, Ball/Ball Ends Comp Cams CCA-8400-16

gaskets:
header gasket remflex 3028 or Earls Pressure Master 29D03AERL
oil pan gasket Fel-Pro OS34508R
Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9333PT1
lower intake: Fel-Pro FEL-1250s3
Oil Pan Gasket FEL-OS13260T
Bolt O ring oil filter adapter FOTZ6749B
Block O ring oil filter adapter F6TZ6L621AA edit: it was for too large of a circle. I had to cut it back and use ultrablack to ensure a seal.

Crank bearings....Very sad story on my new motor
695-MS590HX x 1 MAIN BEARING SET Standard Size
695-CB634P20 x 8 CONNECTING ROD BEARING 20 thou undersized for cut crank :(
edit...New cam synchro gear needed. Shaft size .531 Use a steel gear

edit:
moved to Twisted Wedge fac 170 heads
Pushrods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7"
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers
Custom FTI cam
Morel link bar lifters
rollmaster timing set
Fel-Pro 1133SD4 MLS head gaskets

Strategy is REAC4A2 for Tuning

Siemens Deka 63lbs/hr EV6 Injector Part #108191
Aeromotive 340 Fuel Pump, part #11542

347 at Ford Strokers.jpg
 



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I was kinda thinking that also. Its worth a try.

edit: Good call 4pointslow!
That would make perfect sense. I'll look for a picture of the front of a block and see if that can happen. Or, maybe you already know it can.
 



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magnet

Maybe you can fish a magnet down the cam hole?
 






Maybe you can fish a magnet down the cam hole?

I did buy one of those extendable magnets for fishing dropped nuts and bolts today. With a flashlight I couldn't see anything down there, but it would be easy to try. I think I'll be poking things in from both top and bottom.


edit: That just sounds wrong.
 












A magnet is a good idea, but you'd want to keep it from touching the pan or any metal. The magnet will make the fragments attract to the pan etc. So even the cheap small extension magnets can help. Maybe wrap the magnet end with a thin layer of cloth etc.

If nothing else works, pick up the whole engine and shake it good.;)
 












I thought the stock pan was aluminum or pewter?

Both materials are non magnetic.

As for flushing down the cam sensor drive hole. You could get a siphon sprayer that attaches to an air hose. Insert the nozzle end into the sensor drive hole and flush the area out with kerosene or diesel washing out any trash.

Like this:
http://www.grainger.com/product/BINKS-Siphon-Delivery-Conventional-WP106314/_/N-/Ntt-Binks+Model+2001+Spray+Gun?adgrpID=18223294979&gclid=CJjZ6ZqGlcYCFY4WHwodvCcAkw&kwdID=130859906699&sst=All&s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1ZLA7_AS01?$smthumb$
 






Thanks for the pic Turdle.
It looks like the teeth are more than likely in the timing cover, and that's where they are going to stay. Looking at the pic, I don't even see the path for oil to get to the pan.
 






Dono,

Please post how it turns out.

I'm only building a little 331 but I am memorizing stumbling blocks others have had and trying to avoid them.

Chris
 






450 HP in a DD Suv, and it ain't a Porsche. :thumbsup:

Once you get the little things ironed out, break it in, get the tune down, I can't wait to see pics of the black squiggly lines on the pavement. :D
 






Some of the pans were steel and some were aluminum. I agree the timing chain area and the little shelf there is the hardest place to get to if any debris didn't drain back down. That front surface leads straight down into the pan, but the tiny particles Don's worried about could have just stuck to any surface.

Being oily and not weighing much, they can be gently setting anywhere around there. But still, as small as they should be, and few, I believe the only worry is if enough exists to reduce flow at the oil pickup screen.

I would look really hard at the old worn gears, and decide if enough material is missing to warrant getting a look at that screen. Give Woody another call and ask him how that gear looks, and what he'd do. He's the expert builder, and I'm sure he has heard of many similar examples.
 






Also how much of the cam gear have you inspected? I'd get a good look at as much of that as I could too.
 






Not much to look at really. 4 teeth are torn off. I knocked another tooth off trying to get the gear off. The tooth didn't shatter, it broke cleanly off in one piece. Im betting that when the teeth came off, they came off in full pieces.

When I did the nasty with the water, I did not point the hose towards the front of the motor, I pointed it as straight down as possible. That would mean i didn't even wash the area that the fragments are probably in.
I don't think I can bring myself to do the water thing a second time.

I'll email Nicole, and if she doesn't have the answer she will get it.
 






Looking at the pictures in the previous post (#61) if you do get a hold of a bore scope it might not be a bad idea to inspect the cam gear face through the cam sensor mounting hole just in case.

Chris
 






I was able to get a reasonable look at the cam gear with a flashlight. I did rotatate the motor to see all of the gear to see if there was obvious damage. The cam gear looked ok. I have to wonder if the cam gear shatters first by design.
 






edit: While sitting at my desk, I spotted a victim for my rare earth magnets.

um....was going to ask how my laptop was doing, but now i am not sure i really want to know.....
 






um....was going to ask how my laptop was doing, but now i am not sure i really want to know.....

I was going to make a crack about that, but didn't think you would find it funny.
I haven't given your laptop any love yet. I'll take a run at it tomorrow.

Nicole was asking details about the gear, and I honestly wouldn't know for sire if it was steel or iron.
I gave her the details I know, and she does suggest magnet on pan, and magnet on filter.

Tim, if you want a couple, I have a few more old hard drives on my desk.
 












I was able to get a reasonable look at the cam gear with a flashlight. I did rotatate the motor to see all of the gear to see if there was obvious damage. The cam gear looked ok. I have to wonder if the cam gear shatters first by design.

Did that new synchronizer at least come in a Motorcraft box? I gather it was from RA, and the one I got from them is in a Ford box. Ford would only use steel gears for those, who knows what a rebuilder might, there are a lot of brands these days.

Let's hope it's just a low quality gear on the synchro, and the new one solves that.
 



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Teeth

What if the teeth get in between the timing chain and gears and break the chain.
Is a 347 stroker motor with 1.6 rocker arms a valve bender?
 






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