Need help ASAP! resources expended! need truck for work!

[Jgetchell09]

Ok guys so I'm stuck at a stand still. My 2001 sport trac is out of commission right
Now. Started having a loss of power issue a few weeks ago and didn't think much of It because it didn't seem that bad at the time. One morning I went to go start my truck and nothing at all it would crank all day long but no start. So I did a little research and mess with the inertia switch a couple times and finally got it to start. So with that I started a tune up last week I've have since replaced......
-Throttle body positioning sensor and cleaned throttle body
-cleaned maf sensor
-new crankshaft positioning sensor
-cleaned and tested all fuel injectors
-new plugs and wires
-new fuel filter
-new fuel pump
-had a bad knock sensor on bank 1 so I took the upper intake off and replaced bank one sensor.
-visually inspected for vaccume leaks and can't seem to find anything.
- clean iac valve

So with that being said with all that done I go to start it today and I'm still having the same issue. Hard to start takes about 3-4 minutes and ones it's running it'll stay running and isn't hard to start again once it's warm. But the main issue is the lack of power. I can literally push the pedal to the floor and I have barely anything at all. But when I shift up into 2nd or 1st I can pick up enough speed. Thought mabye I had some clogged cat converters so I disconnected them at the headers to see if I got power back and nothing...... So I'm stuck and need my vehicle bad for work....

 

[JimInRadfordVA]

I'd look at the fuel pressure. I had similar issues that were finally corrected with a new fuel pump.

 

[Jgetchell09]

Just put a new fuel pump and filter in. Any idea what else would cause a hard start and loss of power that is fuel related?

 

[crankyjew]

what sort of pump and filter did you put in? some brands are known to be dead-on-arrival.
did you replace just the pump, or the whole pump/sender/screen assembly?

edit: also, you didn't mention a CEL or any codes. I gotta think with the issues you're having it's throwing some kind of error code.

 

[SoCal2V]

Agree with the above sentiment regarding check engine light trouble codes. Are/were there any? Please list which ones you had.

Some of the things on your list make me wonder if you're just throwing parts at it. How exactly did you arrive at the conclusion to change things like the crank sensor?

Something worth checking, something that any competent shop would do FIRST before anything else, is verify proper operation of the charging system. Also be sure to verify clean and secure ground connections at the battery/chassis and engine/chassis. Modern electronically controlled cars simply will not operate correctly with a low battery that will no longer accept or hold a proper charge, and things like excessive AC current ripple output from the alternator (bad diodes) will cause all sorts of problems - like bad crank and cam sensor issues. By the" book", a bad battery is generally defined as anything lower than 13.6V (typical readings at idle as measured from the posts should be in the 13.8 to 14.4V range). Now, a reading of 13.5 volts I wouldn't automatically jump to the conclusion that the battery is toast but it definitely raises the question of "why". It may be worth having the alternator bench tested to verify the diode operation and charging capabilities.

Contrary to popular belief, the electrical system on a car while running is not dependent on the alternator. The engine and all of the various other things on a car are run by the battery, the alternator is just there to keep it charged.

Next... Does cycling the key on/off a few times before attempting to start improve it's ability to actually start? As mentioned above, there are occasionally replacement fuel pumps that are crap before you even take them out of the box, always replace with an oem unit when you can rather than Dorman or whatever brand your local parts store has on the shelf. If key on/off a few times helps with starting then that suggests a bad check valve in the fuel pump which is causing loss of fuel pressure.

 

[LONO100]

Agree with the above sentiment regarding check engine light trouble codes. Are/were there any? Please list which ones you had.

Some of the things on your list make me wonder if you're just throwing parts at it. How exactly did you arrive at the conclusion to change things like the crank sensor?

Something worth checking, something that any competent shop would do FIRST before anything else, is verify proper operation of the charging system. Also be sure to verify clean and secure ground connections at the battery/chassis and engine/chassis. Modern electronically controlled cars simply will not operate correctly with a low battery that will no longer accept or hold a proper charge, and things like excessive AC current ripple output from the alternator (bad diodes) will cause all sorts of problems - like bad crank and cam sensor issues. By the" book", a bad battery is generally defined as anything lower than 13.6V (typical readings at idle as measured from the posts should be in the 13.8 to 14.4V range). Now, a reading of 13.5 volts I wouldn't automatically jump to the conclusion that the battery is toast but it definitely raises the question of "why". It may be worth having the alternator bench tested to verify the diode operation and charging capabilities.

Contrary to popular belief, the electrical system on a car while running is not dependent on the alternator. The engine and all of the various other things on a car are run by the battery, the alternator is just there to keep it charged.

Next... Does cycling the key on/off a few times before attempting to start improve it's ability to actually start? As mentioned above, there are occasionally replacement fuel pumps that are crap before you even take them out of the box, always replace with an oem unit when you can rather than Dorman or whatever brand your local parts store has on the shelf. If key on/off a few times helps with starting then that suggests a bad check valve in the fuel pump which is causing loss of fuel pressure.

agree, agree agree! if it is a timing/cam issue causing the loss of power, you should see the CEL light up. see if you can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from autozone or o'reilly to test your fuel pressure as well. good luck and let us know what you find.