Dismiss Notice



Register Today It's free! This box and some ads will disappear once registered!

Negative battery cable/Engine coolant temp sensor connector

Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by Rhaegal94, November 17, 2017.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. Rhaegal94

    Rhaegal94 Elite Explorer

    Joined:
    August 31, 2017
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1994 Ford Explorer XLT
    I bought a negative battery cable for a '94 Explorer but it doesn't have the engine coolant temp sensor connector. Instead, it has two auxiliary connections. I found a battery cable replacement thread (91-94X Battery Cables) and ordered the negative battery cable mentioned from NAPA and it was the exact same cable; auxiliary connections but no connector.

    So, should I take my existing connector and crimp it to the auxiliary connections on the new cable? Or, should I try to buy a new connector? There is a Motorcraft male connector listed on PartsGeek.com (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Connector) but the picture looks like a female connection.

    Attached is a picture of the connector I'm talking about. I may be wrong in calling it an engine coolant temp sensor connector.
    connector.jpg
     
  2. Support EF

    Join the Elite Explorers for $20

    Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.



  3. natenkiki2004

    natenkiki2004 Blue Bomb!

    Joined:
    November 3, 2013
    Messages:
    2,043
    Likes Received:
    64
    Trophy Points:
    68
    Location:
    North Idaho
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1991 & 1994 Explorers
    I think I know what you're talking about, there's 1 or 2 round connectors for the negative cable. They're not for the coolant temp sensor though. Honestly, just splice it however you can but please don't simply crimp. Solder and double-wall heatshrink with glue inside is the best way to go. Corrosion is very prevalent in these cables near the battery due to the acid. With crimped connectors, you're asking for trouble down the road.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  4. gmbroy

    gmbroy Elite Explorer

    Joined:
    June 24, 2013
    Messages:
    219
    Media:
    7
    Likes Received:
    21
    Trophy Points:
    18
    City, State:
    Orange VA
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1996 explorer Eddie Bauer
    I am going to agree with natenkiki , follow his suggestion to the T you cant go wrong .
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  5. Rhett

    Rhett Let Them Eat Cake Elite Explorer

    Joined:
    May 13, 2000
    Messages:
    4,660
    Likes Received:
    83
    Trophy Points:
    68
    City, State:
    Cape Girardeau, MO
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    94 Sport 4x4
    To the best of my knowledge, on the 1st gens there are 2 different connector sockets Ford used on the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor. And you're correct in calling it the engine coolant temp sensor -- there is also an "engine coolant temp sender" which is for the gauge. But the sensor is for the PCM.

    When you buy a ECT sensor, some kits (Delphi, and Motorcraft) come with two different connector pigtails -- to cover all trucks, I guess. Anyway, they say you can splice in the other one, if you need it. I didn't know that had anything to do with the negative battery cable. Are you sure the neg cable is directly hooked to that sensor? That does not seem correct to me.

    And yes I would solder and heat shrink as natenkiki suggests. I don't trust a crimp long-term in a high-vibration environment like the engine bay.
     
  6. Rhett

    Rhett Let Them Eat Cake Elite Explorer

    Joined:
    May 13, 2000
    Messages:
    4,660
    Likes Received:
    83
    Trophy Points:
    68
    City, State:
    Cape Girardeau, MO
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    94 Sport 4x4
    Here's a pc of the Delphi ECT kit. Notice the extra pigtail connector. It even comes with crimpers and heat shrink tubing.

    1.jpg

    Here's a close up of the two connectors.

    2.jpg
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  7. Rhaegal94

    Rhaegal94 Elite Explorer

    Joined:
    August 31, 2017
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1994 Ford Explorer XLT
    Thank you everyone for the tips. I thought crimping because both negative battery cables had the yellow butt connectors. I'll definitely go with soldering and dual wall heat shrink.

    I'll need to go back and take a picture of the whole cable (it's been raining since my post). Like natenkiki mentioned, it's two rounded connectors. That's why I thought I would try the NAPA cable pictured below (1st pic) because that's the same rounded male connector. That connector connects to a rounded female connector which is bundled into some convoluted tubing/electrical tape and routes under the engine bay fuse box. The male connector pigtails are currently wrapped in some electrical tape and bundled with the main cable in convoluted tubing. Those temporary type terminals were added at some point.

    The cable I ordered from NAPA ended up being the cable in the 2nd picture below. Which is the same cable I had previously ordered on Amazon.
    napa.jpg
    neg battery cable.jpg
     
  8. roscoe 0202

    roscoe 0202 Active Member

    Joined:
    February 3, 2014
    Messages:
    341
    Likes Received:
    72
    Trophy Points:
    38
    City, State:
    salt lake city utah
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1999 explorer sport
    that double connector is the computer ground definitely solder and heat shrink or you will have grounding problems.
    roscoe
    ps I usually crimp my connections with a solder crimp before soldering and heat shrinking.
     
  9. Rhett

    Rhett Let Them Eat Cake Elite Explorer

    Joined:
    May 13, 2000
    Messages:
    4,660
    Likes Received:
    83
    Trophy Points:
    68
    City, State:
    Cape Girardeau, MO
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    94 Sport 4x4
    FYI...on my 94, the factory connector did not match the new ECT sensor...so I'm having to use the pigtail Delphi provided. The OEM wires are slightly smaller (12 guage vs. 10 guage it appears). NOW what I hear is that the sensor doesn't care about polarity..i.e. the two wires on the pigtail are both white, yet the OEM wiring is Gray/Red Stripe and Lt Green/Red Stripe (carries 5v).

    i'll know for sure if that's true, once I solder it all up.
     
  10. Craggles

    Craggles New Member

    Joined:
    December 18, 2017
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1993 Ford Explorer XL 4WD
    Rhett can you provide an update on the results?
     
  11. natenkiki2004

    natenkiki2004 Blue Bomb!

    Joined:
    November 3, 2013
    Messages:
    2,043
    Likes Received:
    64
    Trophy Points:
    68
    Location:
    North Idaho
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1991 & 1994 Explorers
    It's just a dumb resistor and works the same no matter the polarity. Any way you please!
     
  12. Rhett

    Rhett Let Them Eat Cake Elite Explorer

    Joined:
    May 13, 2000
    Messages:
    4,660
    Likes Received:
    83
    Trophy Points:
    68
    City, State:
    Cape Girardeau, MO
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    94 Sport 4x4
    Yes, it's working fine. I'm really hoping my solder and heatshrink job works long term, because if it doesn't I'll have to at least remove the throttle body to get to the joint again. I tried to be extra careful. I'm not the greatest solder-er. I'm the guy who solders a nice joint, and then realizes he forgot to put on the shrink wrap tube first.

    Also word of advice, you have to run a fine line between having your wires too short vs. too long. Too long, and they can contact the throttle body opening mechanism and get caught in that. Too short, and they won't reach from the existing wiring harness to the connector...without unclamping part of the harness.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  13. Craggles

    Craggles New Member

    Joined:
    December 18, 2017
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1993 Ford Explorer XL 4WD
    Thanks again Rhett. Btw, I'm an expert solder-er (trained by NASA actually). But I've also never soldered a joint without having to take it apart at least once to add the heatshrink I forgot...
     
  14. Rhaegal94

    Rhaegal94 Elite Explorer

    Joined:
    August 31, 2017
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1994 Ford Explorer XLT
    FINALLY got the battery cables, starter solenoid and a new starter installed about 2 weeks ago. Started the installation a little after Thanksgiving. A friend did the soldering. The holdup was getting the top bolt of the starter out. Stripped the head so it turned into a battle. Also, the snow and below 0 weather didn't help. If I had been able to get the bolt out the same day, then everything would have been done that day or the next.
     

Share This Page







We Support Our Troops!