V8 Swapped Eddie Bauer Build Log

[koda2000]

So, the intake gaskets still need doing, I got those, any tips before I undertake them? Would've done it today but didn't have the right tool. Also got the thermostat housing, did convert to the newer housing, got a like new housing off (Motorcraft) a friend's car that blew a head gasket and filled the oil with coolant, cleaned it, and undertook that. Removing the UI is a great tip, even with a wobble joints, the housing is placed just right to be a PITA, but after a good hour and a half, it's off and the new one is on, new seal, bolted down, both sensors are in and plugged in. Got dark on me before I could finish. The old housing was leaking pretty well everywhere, bottom seal at the block, both sensors spun freely in the holes, the seam was splitting, and was leaking at the thermostat gasket, it was using around half a gallon every ten miles, and considering I do mostly all highway driving, that's not good. It's the original housing too, both pieces say August of 2000, so it's due. As for pictures, I do still have to go Elite, I'll probably tackle that this week.

FYI: You can post pictures by uploading them to something PhotoBucket (free), then copy and paste the images into you thread.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Thanks for the info @koda2000. As for the thermostat, ended up doing the gaskets, found the tools I needed, got those done, then finished the housing, was really easy then, the intake gaskets on the upper were newer, but needed doing, the lower ones had never been done and we're obviously leaking everywhere. Got all that done, and it back running. Runs great, plenty of power and no coolant leak, fuel economy has improved greatly too.

 

[koda2000]

Cool! Congrats!

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So update to this thread, since I've been swamped busy, and got most all of my vacuum leaks sorted, and will get photos here ASAP as well as the other business I have on here. Anyhow, I noticed I had a noise in my front end when making right turns over rougher terrain, bit of a strange noise really, so I started looking, and found that, the axle is good and the bearing too, and the ball joints are interesting, whoever did them in the recent past did both of the passenger side ones and only the lower drivers side one, as for the upper one, it's the factory Ford joint, complete with no grease fitting or any of that, it's not worn that much incredibly, I've seen worse, but it's somewhat alarming that a mechanic would let that slide. I have a good arm/joint on the 99 though, so I'll get the one off there and put on, it was a newer joint and didn't have any play last I checked.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Question, so, I filled it up yesterday for a five hour round trip on the highway, and I got 22 MPG, which I consider to be mostly normal, but the center console info center refuses to acknowledge better fuel economy, like it's getting up to around 15 MPG/Average, which is low, and I'm remotely curious as to why it is, I know I have the occasional ABS light, that have anything to do with it? I'm not too concerned about it, it's just interesting

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So, an update to this thread, since one is do. Since then, I've changed the fuel pump following a decline in health, it had been done once before in 2005, and visibly didn't look like anything was wrong, just wasn't strong anymore. Did the plugs despite the wires being new looking, and the dates being 2014, all six plugs were Motorcraft OEMs, three out of six were close to maxing out my gauge, replaced them and I had a smooth idle and ride. After that I drove it a good couple weeks, I noticed it just wouldn't kick down after driving a little bit, it ran smooth, but smelled a bit rich, and just wasn't perfect. So, read the live data, the upstream O2s were switching at a good rate, but the voltage was low on one, as well as it switching faster than the other one, so I replaced it, MPG is perfect at 17.6 (average 60% city), kicks down great, strong, no problems there anymore.

As for anything else to really comment on, the PO paid to have the ball joints done, the mechanic only did 3 of them, so I've gotta sort that, I've got a clicking when I make hard right turns following a bit of offroading, which was fun, so I'll sort that, as well as get the ABS light read, because the reader I used doesn't do ABS codes. Among other things, the rear hatch needs some TLC (thread detailing that posted earlier), and the rear tires are gonna need some TLC soon, they were worn when I got it and they're getting useless now after 3500 more miles. I did notice something, the factory size is P255/70R16, these are 245/75R16, any real benefit/loss to them? I may get all four done and sell the two old front ones since they're extremely noisy. Other than that, I've been a pretty happy camper, it being a SOHC has worried me some, but it's been cared for oil change wise, engine looks great through the fill hole, so I'm somewhat encouraged, plus I snagged a spare motor from a friend, so that's always good. Speaking of which, for those who read this far, I may have found a body for the V8, it was insured with liability due to the value, so I got it as just a parts car, and the same friend has an 01 XLT I've been eyeballing with a blown engine, so I'll keep you posted, and there will be a thread if I do in fact get that body.

 

[angstrom08]

... as well as get the ABS light read, because the reader I used doesn't do ABS codes...

What kind is it? Is it one of those bluetooth OBD2 modules you can find all over amazon for $10?

If its one of those bluetooth modules, then your trouble is the software you're using, not the hardware. Most apps only interact with the PCM/ECU in a vehicle. There's a relatively obscure app, Car Gauge Pro, which will query all the other modules in my '01 including Airbag, ABS, Remote anti-theft, etc. It's a bit obtuse to use, but it's one of only two I know that will query modules on the other busses in the truck. Another app that should do it, but I haven't tried it, is Forscan Lite for Android.

For $10, I'd get one of those modules anyways. Leave the module plugged in and as long as you have a phone with you, you can access the diagnostics.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Some older one that's probably a HFT one I got from a friend in trade. I've been meaning to eventually get a better one.

 

[angstrom08]

Some older one that's probably a HFT one I got from a friend in trade. I've been meaning to eventually get a better one.

Got an Android device? Get one of these:

Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Scanner Adapter Automotive Check Engine Light Diagnostic Code Reader for Android Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_POhbybNPG45ZD

Seriously, even with $12.99 for the little module and $4.67 or whatever for Torque pro or Forscan Lite, the value of he diagnostic data per dollar is really hard to beat! Good luck!

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Yeah I was looking at that one earlier, I keep Android/iOS phones around and about if I find a cheap cracked one, so the phone isn't a big deal. Meanwhile, I got the light read because I was at the parts store and decided to go ahead and get it done, ended up being the left front wheel bearing, even though if you jack it up, there's no play in the front end on that side no matter which test you do, so it's sitting ATM, haven't gotten around to fixing that yet. I halfway see the benefits of a 2WD system on these, upkeep seemed a lot cheaper, though 4WD is pretty useful

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So, the drivers side wheel bearing tested bad, the sensor was reading bad on that side, so, changed the hub, it drives great, other than outer tie rod wear, it feels brand new, goes down the highway smooth. Got around to messing with the old one, and I found the reason it "failed" was due to the axle not being tight enough, I stuck a couple lug nuts on it, and pushed the hub back in, and it got smooth feeling and tight again, was just over a year old. I've figured out the PO's mechanic was more of a barbarian than a mechanic.

*EDIT* Before I get asked, no, I'm not stupid enough to put it back in service.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So, another post, I'm actually probably getting closer to posting photos, the 01 has gotten more reasonable recently, and I've been too busy to even take any. Mainly I have a question, what's the tint % on the glass behind the drivers windows on a 98-01? I know I'm level tinted the whole away around, was on the car when I bought it, and the back is OEM, I've been told it's probably 20%, that sound right?

*Edit, it's 20% from everything I found elsewhere*

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So, I dug up a photo I put online, it's back when I bought it, it's been detailed since then.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So, I have an update, the left rear tire, the one that had a bad valve stem when I bought it and was run slack, the belt broke in it (no wreck, no harm done), I found it Monday after having what felt like a miss at 55, so I put on a 15 inch wheel from the 99 since my spare wheel is a JY find and it's a tad rusty, was gonna get a matching wheel but haven't had time, and my power was out the floor, like, it took off constantly like it was dying. Ended up with a better rear tire, now I have more power than before, before, when I'd floor it at 50+ MPH, I'd get one gear downshift, now I get a full kick down, so what's my conclusion? The PCM was engaging the T-Case due to my front tires being newer, my rear tires being older, now my rear tires both are in good condition, close to the front, and the PCM isn't engaging the T-Case, so keep your tires matched, it makes a difference. I've hunted the kickdown since I bought this car, that was the cause, that or a new tire fixed something else.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

*Edit* Read Later Post

So, I've somehow managed to have a legitimate problem, time for a question, thinking my guides just started giving out on the drivers side cylinder head, went in a store, and in maybe 5 minutes, came out, got in, and down the road. Now, anywhere from 2500K up to over 4K, I have a nice rattle, and I haven't changed the oil, it's due though, it's on my weekend list. Question is, how long have I got? I don't exactly need the engine to be down ATM, I have enough to work on with the other vehicles we own, and I've heard they'll run 50K miles with a rattle. I'm hoping that since I just resolved a bad misfire under load, changing the oil will make it go quiet, plus it's due anyhow. Thoughts?

 

[david4451]

Your engine is rattling, probably due to the plastic timing guides already being broken. Drop the oil pan when/if you're do your oil change and look for plastic bits, if you drive with engine rattling sure the chain will do more damage and if it jumps time, especially on start up it will probably bend valves.
We all live with this dredged day, having the 4l SOHC, if it's only rattling at the front you can change timing components without pulling the engine, but not balance shaft tensioners.

 

[Charlie wood]

So, I've been an Explorer owner for a year and a half now, since I got my beginners permit last year. I had a 99 V8, had a mechanical failure in the steering or brakes, rolled it, lived through it with just bruises, been hunting 2 1/2 weeks now, and I came across a 01 Eddie Bauer with the SOHC, got it for $1100, but not without some issues. One is, it's leaking coolant, and I don't have any idea of where because it's not hitting the dirt anywhere, or wetting the steering. The other is, I have a major vacuum leak, it throws lean codes on both sides, and you can tell it's not running 100% because it just doesn't have all the high end it should. I'll have photos later, and become an Elite Explorer, but I figured I'd post the questions now because I start working on it tomorrow.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I found I'm a complete, and total idiot, so I realized this morning that it didn't sound like a chain rattle but more like a rapid tap, plus under the hood at idle, or speeding it up under there, I didn't hear a chain noise, but more like an exhaust leak. Now comes the question, what's the little valve mounted on the drivers side valve cover with two lines going to it? It's cracked and under higher engine speeds is an exhaust leak, probably bumped it or caused some stress by mistake doing the wires. As for this engine, I have a much better condition one that's a lower mile unit I want to put the updated guides in instead, since it hasn't been run lean for probably years, with factory plugs and likely wires, and it's only got 102K miles on it.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So an update to this thread, tapping turned out to be a broken DPFE (I think) thing on the driver's side valve cover, $5 at the JY fixed it, also meanwhile got a code for a small evap leak, and it comes and goes, it's got a mostly new gas cap on it, so I'm not sure it's that, then again, could be that, one way to find out. All that aside, been enjoying this thing increasingly more, had to buy a rear tire, had a real deal lump show in one plugged somewhere it wasn't supposed to be by the PO, which if you're active you've seen various posts mentioning that. Only thing I'm aware it needs is a good driver's side upper joint, and some tree sap off the drivers door. Other things I'm doing to it is smoked tail lights, like the look a lot, 18 inch chrome offset wheels (Panther Scizzr) and 265/65R18 Bridgestone ATs, crystal front lights, fog light bulbs (hate the yellow), limited grille (should I go gold or the green), and that'll probably be a wrap on the mods, assuming that's a thing. Other than being dirty and having some sap on the door, here's a photo of how it sat a couple days ago.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Searching wasn't productive, but I'm looking at a set of used crystal clear lights, I have the corners, how do I take out the headlights without breaking them?