New recall on 4.0 SOHC Engine

[pcrussell50]

No.This almost 20 year old thread is regarding the EXTERNAL front hydraulic timing chain tensioner and the long expired 00M12 factory recall or TSB.

Notwithstanding the fact that not all recalls time out, did I say anything, anything at all to indicate that I didn't know this thread is 20 years old?

What I was asking about had nothing to do with the TSB. It was the guy who suggested this:

CDW..." suggests that changing the chain TENSIONERS at regular intervals (60-70k), much like a timing belt in many cars, will go a long way towards keeping the motor in good shape.

Is this ^^^ really a minimum $2000 job like someone in another thread said? THAT is what I want to know.

 

[swshawaii]

^ Rear hydraulic tensioner is easy using a 27mm (1-1/8") socket and a long extension.

Front tensioner is more involved on earlier 4.0L SOHC engines requiring intake, t-stat housing, and throttle body removal.

Read through the previously posted link below.
Google Custom Search

Most recommend using only OE Ford tensioners with crush washers. Tensioner torque spec is32 foot pounds with new washers or 49 foot pounds when reusing the washers.

$2000 job is likely referring to rear tensioner guide R&R that requires engine removal. GL.

 

[donalds]

I don't think I have any rattling. So I think I'm going to get a pre oiler. I followed the link you provided, to the pre oiler you installed. Which size tank did you get? A,C,D,E?

-Peter

A

 

[donalds]

$2000-2500 = full timing job

 

[CDW6212R]

Notwithstanding the fact that not all recalls time out, did I say anything, anything at all to indicate that I didn't know this thread is 20 years old?

What I was asking about had nothing to do with the TSB. It was the guy who suggested this:


Is this ^^^ really a minimum $2000 job like someone in another thread said? THAT is what I want to know.

Yes, I suggested the tensioners(external) should be changed every 60-75k miles. The big job of changing the timing cassettes can cost $1500 or so if the rear is being done also. The original thought was that the front cassette was the one likely to fail early, and the TSB part/kit that Ford put out helped that a lot. It included an anti-drain back part(the long pencil thing made of plastic), which goes down into the oil passage feeding the front external tensioner(and cassette etc). I think that alone greatly extends the life of the front cassette.

The external tensioners have a spring inside of them. Age and mileage wear those out, reducing the effectiveness of the tensioner. Thus the best maintenance for those is replacement at some point sooner than engine failure, such as 75k miles.

A pre-oiler device is a great idea, a little expensive, but cheaper than any of the service work other than the basic tensioner job.

 

[pcrussell50]

A plan is coming together guys, thanks. Pre oiler (size A) and new tensioners.

If I don't have any rattling (152k original miles), then can I assume I've dodged a bullet re motor longevity?

-Peter

 

[J_C]

^ Not necessarily. As long as you have an old, now worn and stretched chain, and brittle old guides (aka cassettes) due to being exposed to temperature cycling and hot oil for 23 years, the wear may have already been done. Wear accelerates wear.

It increases the odds in your favor of getting more miles out of it, but it could still fail. Then again you could say that for anything, that everything eventually fails if something else doesn't put it in the grave first, like the transmission, or a collision with a texting teenage driver, etc.

A common thing people do is pull the oil pan to see if there are pieces of the chain guide in it.

 

[CDW6212R]

^ Not necessarily. As long as you have an old, now worn and stretched chain, and brittle old guides due to being exposed to temperature cycling and hot oil for 23 years, the wear may have already been done. Wear accelerates wear.

It increases the odds in your favor of getting more miles out of it, but it could still fail. Then again you could say that for anything, that everything eventually fails if something else doesn't put it in the grave first, like the transmission, or a collision with a texting teenage driver, etc.

A common thing people do is pull the oil pan to see if there are pieces of the chain guide in it.

That's a good thought. Drop the lower oil pan, the metal one is shallow and almost easy to remove. It may not show any plastic bits from the cassettes, since those are at the far front and back of the engine. But inspecting the internal parts can tell you a lot about the condition, the maintenance it received.