New Toy

[albi1cnobi1]

I can't wait to see this when it's done. You're doing a nice job, it's going to be a real nice truck when you're done.

 

[koda2000]

I can't wait to see this when it's done. You're doing a nice job, it's going to be a real nice truck when you're done.

Thanks Al, that's the plan. This has turned into more of a restoration than a simple fix-up, but I'm trying to maximize the truck's resale valve. I know what impresses me when I look at a used vehicle and I know how to accomplish this, after having restored quite a few classic cars in the past. Looking at what these trucks sell for in my area a clean one can be worth around $6,000. So I figure I can put quite a bit of money in it and still make a few bucks. My daughter has said she'd like it, but if she buys it I'd have to at least break even. Her 2000 Mountaineer is probably worth around $2,500 max, so that might get her close. We'll see. My problem is that after I pour my heart and soul into making a vehicle as perfect as I can make it, I want to keep it. With the ST I'd have 3 Explorer's that would be exclusively my vehicles (and I don't drive that much anymore). Something would have to go. I should probably sell my '01 EB 5.0L, but it's just too nice. I bet I haven't put 500 miles on it in the past year. I need to take it out for some exercise today, before the battery goes dead.

Ahhh, it's a sickness.

 

[koda2000]

So today I decided to start looking into the window and door lock wiring.

Known Facts - Windows:
1. The left front window works perfectly.

2. The right front window will go down from its switch and the master switch, but will not go up from either switch.

3. The right rear window will go up and down from it's switch, but only down from the master switch.

4. The right rear window motor does work, but due to the disassembly of the door can't be tested further at this time.

I tried running battery power/ground to the appropriate wires from the master switch to the right rear window UP circuit and it went UP, but it will not work from the master switch (Maybe you were right Dave P and the master switch is not working properly, at least for the right rear window).

I tried the same test on the right front window and just got a spark, but it turns out the L&R front windows both use a TAN/LT BLU wire, so I may have had the wrong TAN/LT BLU wire. The left front wire goes to the AUTO DOWN relay, where the right front goes to the right front window (additional testing needed). Both right windows may be a master switch related problem. More testing required.

Door Locks:
Although the right front actuator is stripped, the driver's door and right rear lock actuators do work. So I turned my attention to the left rear actuator and found 2 issues. Firstly, the OP had managed to pull one of the wires out of the plug. I fixed this, but the actuator still wouldn't open or lock the door. Turns out the OP managed to break the actuator arm off inside the boot (why not, he broke everything else inside this door). So now I'll need 2 actuators. I've got a used one coming, but I'm not sure where it will fit. I thought the front and rear actuator were the same, but it turns out they're not.

I have a question regarding the removal of the metal rod from the door latch, but I'll post a new thread on it.

 

[swshawaii]

I guess 2001-05 Sport Trac front and rear door lock motors are NOT all the same. They are with my 2005. Thanks for the correction.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=426643

 

[koda2000]

I guess 2001-05 Sport Trac front and rear door lock motors are NOT all the same. They are with my 2005. Thanks for the correction.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=426643

My rear one looks kind of like the lower one in the first picture, but the rod is fixed/swaged to the actuator (at least if was).

 

[swshawaii]

My rear one looks kind of like the lower one in the first picture, but the rod is fixed/swaged to the actuator (at least if was).

Ouch. Must have been redesigned with removable latch rods on later models. Thanks.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

The actuator I sent you is from the rear door, and the rod is fixed to the actuator. Which other do you need, front or rear? I can send you another one if you need.

 

[koda2000]

The actuator I sent you is from the rear door, and the rod is fixed to the actuator. Which other do you need, front or rear? I can send you another one if you need.

I need the left rear and the right front. Apparently the rears are different from left to right, but the fronts are interchangeable left to right according to RockAuto's catalog.

By the time I'm done with the left rear door it will be an totally empty shell.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

I sent you the left rear.

 

[koda2000]

The actuator I sent you is from the rear door, and the rod is fixed to the actuator. Which other do you need, front or rear? I can send you another one if you need.

Yes, please send me the right front, as that's the stripped one.

Sorry, but I had no idea the freaking PO had broken the left rear actuator, as he'd pulled the wire out of the plug and it wasn't making contact until I tightened and reinserted it. Afterwards the the actuator started making noise, but wasn't doing anything because the plastic plunger was also broken. I wish I could have been there when the PO made this mess, so I could slap him on the back of his stupid head! None of this damage was necessary.

BTW, Did you end up sending me the entire glass retaining bracket, or just the nylon slide for the left rear? Doesn't really matter as I need to remove the window to straighten the bent/twisted glass bracket to replace/repair it.

Today I need to test the master switch to figure out whether this is the issue with the left (and maybe right rear) windows not going up. You wont be able to help me there, as the '01 ST master switch is different form the Gen II Ex's.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

I sent you the entire bracket with the center slide bar and mounting bolts/nuts. The bracket is captive in the slide so it was better that way and easier for you put back together. By the way, if you don't have the tool or don't want to rivet that bracket back on I have had success using short pan head screws with nylon lock nuts on them. I did one about 5 years ago and it's still as good as the day I installed it.

I answered in your other post, I'll send you the right front actuator.

 

[koda2000]

I sent you the entire bracket with the center slide bar and mounting bolts/nuts. The bracket is captive in the slide so it was better that way and easier for you put back together. By the way, if you don't have the tool or don't want to rivet that bracket back on I have had success using short pan head screws with nylon lock nuts on them. I did one about 5 years ago and it's still as good as the day I installed it.

I answered in your other post, I'll send you the right front actuator.

Ok. Thanks.

 

[koda2000]

Today's Progress:
I finally finished my cooling system flush rinses. The guy at AutoZone wasn't thrilled that I was dumping all the antifreeze and antifreeze tainted rinse water in his waste oil tank, but he let me do it. There's no where near me that takes used antifreeze, and I will not just pour it on the ground. I'd once asked the Safe-T-Clean guy about people doing this (putting antifreeze into the waste oil tank) and he indicated that it wasn't that big of a deal. As there's no way to drain water from the engine (no block drains) I figure I'll fill the system with 100% antifreeze. That should get me close to a 50/50 mix. I can test and adjust from there as necessary.

Well Dave P, it turns out you were correct in that my window problems are all being caused by a bad master window switch. I took the switch apart and made a diagram to help me identify which pin goes where and both right side window switches on the master switch have no continuity for the UP function. Both left switches work as they should. So I've ordered a new master window switch from partstrain.com for around $25 delivered.

While I'm waiting for parts to arrive, I'll start looking into why I'm not getting any heat. I suspect the blend door actuator isn't actuating, but there are several other possibilities. It's hard to get too excided about not having heat when it's 100F degrees outside.

 

[sr139fox]

Glad I could help. I had a simular problem and my master window switch was bad. Dave p.

 

[Kjhadfield]

I used the total capacity for the coolant and the amount that was being drained out and calculated my mix that way (it was about split half way iirc). Half water was still in the block so I added the other half straight coolant- then topped off with 50/50.

You'll be close doing it like you said

 

[chefduane]

I should probably sell my '01 EB 5.0L, but it's just too nice. I bet I haven't put 500 miles on it in the past year. I need to take it out for some exercise today, before the battery goes dead.[0/QUOTE]

Dibs on the '01 EB 5.0L. I'll bring the jumper cables.

 

[koda2000]

I should probably sell my '01 EB 5.0L, but it's just too nice. I bet I haven't put 500 miles on it in the past year. I need to take it out for some exercise today, before the battery goes dead.[0/QUOTE]

Dibs on the '01 EB 5.0L. I'll bring the jumper cables.

If you're serious we could talk Duane. It's really in excellent condition.

GA truck all it's life (no rust anywhere, chassis looks like new).
Wedgewood Blue and Harvest Gold, w/tan leather interior.
Auto Ventshade visors and bug deflector
Paint - 9 out of 10.
Interior - 9.5+ out of 10 (except for typical tan leather steering wheel wear).
Mechanically - 10-10 with 182,000 miles.
2WD (not so good for upstate NY, good for TX) 3:73 LSD
Towing package w/16" wheels and Draw-Tite 2" receiver.
Dual power seats, new leather on driver's seat bottom
Homelink w/message recorder
Power mirrors, locks, blah, blah, blah.
6 disc CD changer and Mach radio (with a working display!) & rear sub woofer
EATC HVAC w/steering wheel mounted controls
Rear air
Steering wheel mounted radio controls
Michelin tires
New Bilstein Gas-A-Just shocks
New Moog upper/lower ball joints and end-links
Like new factory carpeted floor mats and cargo mat
Auto Light and self dimming rear view mirror
Clear as new original headlight lenses
Rear wiper that actually works
No squeaks or rattles
New radiator, t-stat and W/P
Recent fluid changes
New ceramic front pads
New battery
Fresh Mobil-1 oil change
The PO really took great care of this truck, as have I.

Bring your cables, and cash... LOL

 

[Trac Marks]

Excellent thread.

For the tile setting mastic in the bed, I'd try a good strong pressure washer first. 2000+ PSI. If not, a chisel and hammer. The bed is composite (super fancy plastic) and I'd be skeptical if bedliner out of the can would bond without sanding and priming. Another option, since you have horses, large rubber mat like those sold to line stall floor. Cut to size, it'll look great.

Nothing wrong with your fix, but if you want the retention clip for the tonneau lock, its part 3L2Z-9943629-AA About $6 from Tasca or Amazon. Unfortunately no inexpensive lock cover solution exists.

 

[koda2000]

Excellent thread.

For the tile setting mastic in the bed, I'd try a good strong pressure washer first. 2000+ PSI. If not, a chisel and hammer. The bed is composite (super fancy plastic) and I'd be skeptical if bedliner out of the can would bond without sanding and priming. Another option, since you have horses, large rubber mat like those sold to line stall floor. Cut to size, it'll look great.

Nothing wrong with your fix, but if you want the retention clip for the tonneau lock, its part 3L2Z-9943629-AA About $6 from Tasca or Amazon. Unfortunately no inexpensive lock cover solution exists.

Thanks for reading. I never thought of using my pressure washer (2600 PSI) on the bed. It's worth a try I guess. I had the part number for the lock retainer, thanks. I'll probably pick one up near the end of this project.

I actually thought about getting a stall mat too, but the mess is also on the inside bed sides.

 

[chefduane]

Bring your cables, and cash... LOL

If my '98 ever does kick the bucket, you're on. I know you maintain your own vehicles well and recondition the others to close to factory new, so you never know...