1. Tip...
    If you hold most smartphones sideways
    you can bring up a more full featured version of the forum.
    Dismiss Notice
Dismiss Notice



Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!

Next project vehicle?

Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by 2000StreetRod, November 9, 2014.

  • Searches ExplorerForum.com
    1. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      The optimum functional location for efficiency should have the coolant flow in series between the cool outlet of the radiator and the thermostat inlet. That way the temperature of the coolant would be around 150 deg. F. For that location the coolant inlet and outlet ports should be comparable in diameter to the radiator ports to prevent flow restriction. I suspect the location of the ATF flow should be between the transmission external cooling loop outlet and the inlet to the stock air to ATF cooler. For that configuration the coolant to ATF cooler could drop the ATF temperature to the cool end of the radiator (150 deg. F.) and the air to ATF cooler could drop the ATF temperature further to that of ambient air plus the amount warmed by the A/C condenser. Do you know if that is the configuration for the Super Duty? I wonder if the cooler would fit in the engine compartment below the battery tray. I was potentially planning the space for an electric power steering pump and replacing the mechanical pump with a second alternator. Battery technology is rapidly evolving and I still haven't given up on the possibility of an electric motor driven supercharger for modest boost at low engine speeds.
       
    2. Support EF

      Join the Elite Explorers for $20

      Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself, and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.


      to hide adverts.
    3. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      June 17, 2004
      Messages:
      18,293
      Media:
      3
      Albums:
      1
      Likes Received:
      767
      Trophy Points:
      143
      City, State:
      Knoxville, TN
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      98 Limited AWD
      Speaking of battery technology, have you read much of the LiFePO4 type of batteries? Those are slowly gaining in popularity for all motorsports besides cars. They are made by various brands, and different charging control technologies. Prices are stable, but with two improvements, they might be worth looking at for automobiles.

      The one down side I found was they have limited amperage charging limits. The brand I liked the best(EarthX), can only be charged with 60 amp maximum, or it destroys the battery. If they can find a way to control the charge rate, then I'd want to consider them. The price range for a couple to handle a V8 is still over $450 or so, thus it's just an idea to watch.

      http://www.power-barn.com/earthx-lithium-batteries-for-watercraft/
       
    4. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

      Joined:
      January 27, 2011
      Messages:
      350
      Likes Received:
      33
      Trophy Points:
      38
      City, State:
      Indiana
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '02 Explorer limited
      I am not sure if that's how the super duty trans cooler is ran. They use 2 separate cooling systems on the 6.7L an I can't remember which one does what. It's weird. 2 thermostats in 1 housing that feed different halves of the radiator. There is also a fuel cooler system and a air to water intercooler.

      I mounted my remote oil filter under the battery tray. There is quite a bit of vertical room there. The pass side in the same place is where all of my heat exchanger hoses and pump are located.
       
    5. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      Most of the available space in the left front area appears to be forward and below of the battery tray.
      LFBot1.jpg
      The best location is taken up by the anti-lock brake system module and hydraulic control unit. There may be some space in the bumper vicinity. I'd really like to install one of those coolers.
       
    6. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      I found a potential location for the Super Duty ATF cooler.
      PwrStrgCooler.jpg
      The power steering fluid cooler is mounted on a flat area several inches tall and a couple of feet wide. If the power steering fluid cooler is moved from the center to left or right there will be enough room to mount the ATF cooler. I found a new unit for sale on eBay for $60 with free shipping so I bought it.
      ATFCooler1.jpg
      ATFCooler2.jpg
      The seller had previously purchased it but never installed it. There's another possible location but not very likely.
      RadLwrCnx.jpg
      It's where the hose/pipe and shroud is below the radiator. I traced the hose/pipe to its other end that connects to the bottom of the degas bottle. The other port in the lower left corner of the radiator connects to the block inlet port. The connections generally agree with the 4.6L cooling flow diagram I found.
      4.6LCoolantFlow.jpg
      My Centennial differs in that the radiator has two lower ports instead of a single port connected to a large T fitting and the degas hose is located under the radiator. I doubt there is any significant warm flow (dark arrows) from the degas bottle to the block. The only flow would be from thermal contraction after the engine is shut off or filling the cooling system with the degas cap removed. I think the degas hose diameter is much greater than needed. It will take me some time to devise a cooling system incorporating the Super Duty ATF cooler, the Aviator bypass assembly and oil filter/thermostat housing adapter, the Centennial radiator and degas bottle and the minimum number of interconnecting hoses and fittings.
       
    7. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

      Joined:
      January 27, 2011
      Messages:
      350
      Likes Received:
      33
      Trophy Points:
      38
      City, State:
      Indiana
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '02 Explorer limited
      You are going to need to change the trans cooler lines, and trans case fittings. The 2006-2010 v6 explorers have what you need, that's what I used anyway. You might be able to use a mustang setup also. Since the explorer lines are for a v6, they need some "tweaking" to clear the bellhousing. You are correct, that lower hose from the degas bottle has zero flow. I made the mistake of plumbing into it for my heater core on the first attempt.
       
    8. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

      Joined:
      January 27, 2011
      Messages:
      350
      Likes Received:
      33
      Trophy Points:
      38
      City, State:
      Indiana
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '02 Explorer limited
      Also, the frame looks so clean on that explorer. Has it ever been driven? Lol.
       
    9. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      Using numerous fittings and hose clamps I was able to set up another test to measure the pre-luber oil flow under pressure.
      Test2.jpg
      I installed a 1/8 inch dia. hose barb fitting at the end of the outlet hose. When I plugged in the battery charger I was surprised to see the pressure gauge jump to about 50 psi but then settle to continuous pressure varying from 35 to 37 psi. The pump flow was still more than 1 gpm so I think it will be adequate. One possible horizontal mounting location is the outside of the driver side chassis rail just aft of the beginning of the step bar. I haven't checked the inside of the chassis rail yet but it's probably too close to the exhaust system.
       
    10. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      The Super Duty ATF cooler arrived today and I was pleased to find out that the ATF connectors are removable. They appear to be NPT threads with an O ring seal. I possibly have brass fittings on hand to confirm the thread. I may be able to just use sealant instead of O rings with standard NPT to hose barb fittings.
      ATFCooler.jpg
      The coolant connectors are for 5/8 inch dia. hose which is too small (restrictive) to be inline between the radiator main outlet and the block inlet. My initial idea now is to add a reducing splitter on the passenger side to the hose at the bottom of the radiator to the hose that connects to the degas bottle. One port of the splitter (5/8 inch dia.) would go to the degas bottle and the other port would go to the ATF cooler coolant inlet port. The ATF cooler coolant outlet port would have a hose that connects to the main return hose between the radiator and the block. The ATF cooler inlet port will be connected to the transmission external loop outlet because the efficiency of liquid-to-liquid coolers is greater than air-to-liquid coolers and the average temperature of the coolant leaving the radiator is typically greater than ambient air temperature. The outlet of the ATF cooler will be routed to the inlet of the stock ATF cooler. I've never driven my Centennial long enough at one time to determine the characteristics of the stock ATF cooling. Monday I have Meals On Wheels delivery that lasts about 2 hours. I normally drive the Grand Cherokee but this time I'll drive the Centennial and monitor the ATF temperature using my Scan Gauge II.
       
    11. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

      Joined:
      January 27, 2011
      Messages:
      350
      Likes Received:
      33
      Trophy Points:
      38
      City, State:
      Indiana
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '02 Explorer limited
      Looks great! I am glad that those fittings were removable. Is there a possibility of not using the air to oil factory cooler at all to maximize airflow to the radiator and condenser?
       
    12. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      I prefer to have the additional cooling capacity of both ATF coolers (like my Sport) rather than rely on just the Super Duty cooler. If the 5R55W external cooling loop is thermostatically controlled like my 5R55E then I don't have to worry about over cooling. Hopefully, the stock radiator has adequate cooling for the engine and ATF. My Sport radiator had marginal cooling capacity with the stock 1 inch thick single row core. After replacing it with one for a 1997 with a 2 inch thick double row core my engine cooling issues were solved.
       
    13. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      This morning I had to drive across town (about 40 minutes in traffic each way) to take my parrot to the veterinarian. The TFT increased to a maximum varying around 170 deg. F. even though the ambient temperature was about 78 deg. F.

      The fitting that connects the degas bottle lower hose to the hose that is routed under the radiator from the bottom left is 1 inch dia.
      DegasBtlFitting.jpg
      I need to find a 1 inch dia. T fitting with a 5/8 inch dia. side port.
      TFitting.jpg
      So far I haven't found one. I may have to get one fabricated.

      Edit: I found one: Kat's heater P/N KAT-28113. Only $7 plus $2 for shipping.
      KAT28113.jpg
      According to an online discount auto parts store the Centennial lower radiator hose has an inside dia. of 1.5 inches which I need to confirm. Then I just need to find a 1.5"x1.5"x5/8" T fitting or get one fabricated.

      Edit: I measured the outside diameter of the port on the oil filter/thermostat adapter that connects to the lower radiator hose to be 1.5 inches. I ordered another Kat's heater adapter with 1.5 inch dia. ends and a 5/8 inch dia. side port (Kat's P/N 28115 Lower Radiator Hose Connector) for $8 plus $2 shipping. I thought these Kat's connectors were metal but I found another supplier that states they are made of plastic. Hopefully their ratings exceed 160 deg. F. and 20 psi and will be adequate.
       
      Last edited: September 29, 2016
    14. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      After driving about 2.5 hours in city traffic, in residential areas, and on country roads I've concluded that the stock ATF cooling is adequate for light throttle acceleration when the ambient temperature is 78 deg. F. By watching the TFT on my Scan Gauge II it looks like it takes about 20 minutes of normal driving before the external cooling loop valve opens at about 170 deg. F. Then the temperature fluctuates between 161 and 170 deg. F. Driving with the A/C on or off did not seem to change the fluctuation range. Nor did sitting at a traffic light vs cruising at 40 mph. After my meals were all delivered I performed a moderate acceleration from 0 to 50 mph and the TFT rapidly climbed to 173 deg. F. but dropped back to 170 deg. F. when I released the accelerator pedal. I suspect that a hot day, pulling a trailer or aggressive driving would result in TFTs exceeding 180 deg. F. I want to limit the max TFT to that of the control valve which appears to be 170 deg. F. Many aftermarket shift kits contain instructions (and in some cases parts) to defeat the thermostatic control of the external cooling loop because with age the valve can stick preventing external cooling. Since I don't use full synthetic ATF, I prefer to have the transmission operate within its designed optimum temperature range. Eventually I will permanently mount my Scan Gauge II so I can make sure the external cooling loop valve remains functional.
       
    15. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      June 17, 2004
      Messages:
      18,293
      Media:
      3
      Albums:
      1
      Likes Received:
      767
      Trophy Points:
      143
      City, State:
      Knoxville, TN
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      98 Limited AWD
      I have an oil thermostatic valve made for 180 or so opening temp, and a marine thermostat I'm going to try to swap into the unit. I learned that the control component is the same as most thermostats use. So I found a marine t-stat that I think is a 140 or 145* setting. I just need to figure out how to unscrew the cover of the bypass valve assembly, it's an extremely thin, two flat sides thing. If that will work, I'd make a couple more of them for my other vehicles, to keep the ATF near 150 degrees.
       
    16. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      I'm approaching the point in engine assembly that I will soon need to install the heater outlet tube that goes under the intake manifold in the valley between the heads. For the first time since purchasing my Centennial I removed the appearance cover to inspect under it. There is a collection of hoses, tubes and wiring harnesses that connect components.
      EGRCool.jpg
      One of my goals associated with installing the DOHC V8 is to simplify the configuration without losing any basic functions. The Explorer EGR valve receives engine coolant via hose 1 and returns coolant via hose 2 that is connected to a nipple on the heater outlet tube. Neither the Aviator nor the Mach 1 EGR valves utilize engine coolant. However, the Aviator PCV valve utilizes engine coolant. Since upstate South Carolina experiences neither extreme summers nor extreme winters I will not utilize engine coolant for the EGR valve or the PCV valve. I will cap the PCV valve coolant supply nipple on the Aviator coolant bypass assembly I purchased. I will purchase a new heater outlet tube for a 2003 Marauder.
      HeaterOutTube.jpg
      It has no EGR valve nipple and is designed to mount with the DOHC V8 engine. It only costs $20 plus shipping from Rock Auto.
       
    17. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      I documented the process of pulling the engine which is documented in the following thread: 2003 Centennial 4.6L Engine Removal
      Removing the top two transmission to engine bolts was difficult due to limited access. I ended up removing the intake manifold. Raising the engine enough to clear the motor mounts was another problem. I did not remove the A/C manifold at the firewall which interfered with the passenger side valve cover. I ended up removing the driver side engine mount bracket from the block and rotating the engine clockwise to get the passenger side mount stud to clear the frame seat. Anyway, I finally got the engine out.
      EngOut.jpg

      I was planning to replace the torque converter since the odometer reading is about 185K and the trans to engine bolts were so difficult to remove. However, I was pleasantly surprised when I saw the warranty date sticker on the torque converter is 8/17/16.
      TorqCnvtr.jpg
      I've decided not to replace the torque converter since it working fine just before pulling the engine. Now I have to find a flexplate for my 8 bolt crankshaft with a bolt pattern that matches the 4 bolt torque converter adapter.
       
      • Like Like x 2
    18. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

      Joined:
      January 27, 2011
      Messages:
      350
      Likes Received:
      33
      Trophy Points:
      38
      City, State:
      Indiana
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '02 Explorer limited
      I must have missed it, how did you get an 8-bolt crank? I ran into the same issue. Be careful with flexplates. If you use an non explorer flexplate, you will need a non explorer starter. They have a specific ring gear depth that is different from other fords. I have heard that you can machine down the torque converter plate slitghy and it will fit into a v10 super duty flex plate. Or you can do what I did and cut the center out of an 8-bolt flexplate and weld it to the explorer flexplate. Then redrill the 6 bolts, 2 will match up.
       
      • Useful Useful x 2
    19. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      I ordered a 6 bolt crank but Eagle shipped me an 8 bolt crank. Probably because of the forged rods and pistons. Since it took so long for them to ship (waiting on the rod bolts) I decided not to return the crank. I think that I need a ring gear with 164 teeth but haven't counted the teeth yet to be sure. I didn't know there were different tooth depths. So far I've found three possible 4.6L 8 bolt crank flexplates. One is the Hays 12-071 for 4 bolt Ford torque converters with 11.5 inch bolt pattern. Another is the PRW Industries 1828111 with a Ford/GM dual bolt pattern. I don't know if the 4R70W torque converter has the same bolt pattern as the adapter for the 5R55S. JEGS sells a 4.6L 8 bolt crank flexplate P/N 601094 with 164 teeth that mates with Powerglide, TH350 and TH400 11.5 inch bolt pattern. It might be possible to drill it for a Ford torque converter if the others don't fit.
       
    20. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      I needed the ability to maneuver the stock engine without using the crane in order to have space to work so I purchased an 18 in. x 30 in. hardwood dolly from Harbor Freight Tools for about $16.
      Dolly.jpg
      It's rated at 1,000 pounds but I assume that's with the weight on the padded cross boards above the swivel wheels. So I screwed 1x4 inch boards to the top of the side boards and another under one cross board. Then I nailed two lengths of 2x4 inch boards to the top of the reinforced end leaving a several inch gap for the oil pan shape for the drain plug. Then I nailed next to that 2x4 another one spanning the side rails. I also nailed a 4x4 inch post cut to 17.5 inches at about the mid point of the dolly. I installed two 2x4 inch boards on top of the 4x4. The dolly seems to be holding up to the weight of the engine and is fairly easy to maneuver.
      Dolly2.jpg
      I'll tie the exhaust manifolds to the dolly sides to keep the engine from tilting. Then I'll remove the bolts that attach the passenger side motor mount bracket to the block.
       
      • Like Like x 1
    21. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      I ordered the Hays 12-071 flexplate from Summit and it arrived yesterday. It wasn't what I expected.
      [​IMG]
      I checked the part number and the label shows Hays 12-071 but it was manufactured by PRW Industries. I suspect it is the PRW Industries 1828111 with a Ford/GM dual bolt pattern. The pairs of holes have 11.5 inch spacing, there are 164 teeth and the outer diameter of the ring gear is the same as my stock ring gear. The crankshaft bolt spacing is 3 inches same as stock and my 8 bolt crank. I test fit the flexplate on the torque converter adapter and it is a good fit.
      [​IMG]
      At first I thought the flexplate was warped a little because it rocked on the adapter. But after removing the flexplate, then rotating it 90 degrees it still rocked so the adapter is warped. I'm not going to worry about it.

      I also ordered the ARP 254-2901 flexplate bolts and they arrived yesterday. I'm concerned about the ARP crankshaft bolts being too long. I installed one of the bolts in my new crankshaft without the flexplate and screwed it in until it bottomed out. I measured the space between the bolt face and the crankshaft and compared that to the thickness of the flexplate. It appears that the space is greater than the thickness of the flexplate. I confirmed that I had flexplate bolts instead of flywheel bolts and measured the length from face to end as 0.8 inches as specified. I'm wondering if Eagle assumed that all of their 8 bolts cranks would use flywheels and didn't drill the holes in the crank deep enough. ARP strongly states to not use washers with their bolts. I'll know more when the engine is off the stand and on the crane. Then I can carefully check that the bolts are not bottoming with the flexplate installed. I probably should have purchased 8 of the Ford stock bolts to avoid this issue.

      The shop manual recommends replacing the motor mounts when replacing an engine so I ordered a pair which arrived today.
      EngMounts.jpg
      I'm glad I did because the original passenger side mount appeared to be in good shape but the original driver side mount had the rubber separated from the metal.
      DriverMnt.jpg
      I hope the weather warms up soon so I can paint the original motor mount brackets that attach to the block.
       
      • Like Like x 1
    22. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      Since I did not remove the A/C manifold at the firewall I could not lift the engine enough to clear the mounts. I ended up bending the oil dipstick housing so I could remove it and then detaching the driver side engine mounting bracket from the block. Then I was able to rotate the engine clockwise using the load leveler until the passenger side mount cleared the mount seat on the frame. I plan to install the engine with both mount brackets detached from the block so it will be easier to align the crankshaft axis with the transmission input shaft axis. My Aviator engine did not have mounting brackets and I planned to use the Explorer brackets. Unfortunately, the DOHC oil dipstick I purchased is too close to the block to clear the engine mounting bracket. The DOHC dipstick housing mounts to one of the valve cover studs.
      DipHsn.jpg
      I decided I preferred the Explorer dipstick since it is shorter and mounts to the head. Unfortunately, the different exhaust manifold prevents the Explorer dipstick housing from being installed or extracted even though there is plenty of clearance when installed.
      DipHsn1.jpg
      DipHsn2.jpg
      The limited opening in the head restricts lateral movement.
      DipHsn3.jpg
      And as the housing is raised it interferes with the engine mounting bracket.
      DipHsn4.jpg
      Rather than attempt to bend the housing more I decided to file a notch in the bracket deep enough to allow 2 inches of the housing below the seat to be exposed.
      DipHsn5.jpg
      Then I cut off the housing at 2 inches.
      DipHsn6.jpg
       
      Last edited: March 28, 2018
      • Like Like x 1
    23. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      June 17, 2004
      Messages:
      18,293
      Media:
      3
      Albums:
      1
      Likes Received:
      767
      Trophy Points:
      143
      City, State:
      Knoxville, TN
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      98 Limited AWD
      That's good engineering, well done for thinking through that.
       
    24. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      Even though I have much to do before installing the engine I went ahead and installed the engine mounts and brackets.
      EngMntsInstld.jpg
      The brackets are loosely installed to allow for alignment with the block.
       
      • Like Like x 1
    25. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      I cleaned up the SOHC coolant/filter adapter and installed it on the DOHC.
      ByPassAdapter.jpg
      I also installed the Trans Dapt 1027 spin on by pass adapter for the remote filter and preluber.
       
    26. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      May 26, 2009
      Messages:
      10,540
      Likes Received:
      185
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Greenville, SC
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      I finally got around to drilling out the passenger side exhaust manifold shield broken bolt, tapping the hole and mounting the exhaust manifold and shield.
      PsngrExMnfld.jpg
      I used anti-seize compound on the new shield mounting bolts.

      I purchased a new cylinder head temperature sensor (BWD WT5059).
      CylHdTempSnsr.jpg
      It came with thread sealant applied. I needed a deep well socket to install it.
      CylHdTempSnsr2.jpg
       

    Share This Page







    We Support Our Troops!