Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by 2000StreetRod, November 9, 2014.
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I used copper fittings on my Sport custom EGR tube but had them brazed to the pipes instead of soldered. I haven't had any problems. The guy that did the brazing makes custom tubular frames for dirt bike racing. He also modified my EGR valve.
I've completed the initial fabrication of the engine wiring harness.
I decided to test all of the connections with an ohmmeter since I changed so many of the wires. That will take several hours but it is easier to correct mistakes on the table then after the harness is mounted on the engine.
Wow, that's quite nice! That takes a lot of time and patience. Which I still had the patience to do something like that and plus the skills!
I was able to use a section out of each of the three EGR tubes to fabricate one that fits.
There is adequate clearance for the fuel hose that will connect the two fuel rails. I'll install a heat sleeve on the EGR tube after the fittings are brazed. I've ordered a heat sleeve for the rail to rail fuel hose. Due to the EGR bends and restricted space the upper intake plenum must be removed in order to remove or install the EGR tube.
I installed a hose clamp on each joint to hold the copper fittings in place and delivered the assembly to my machine shop buddy yesterday morning. He marked the joint alignments with a scribe, cleaned the sections to be brazed with glass beads and then silver brazed (1700 degrees melting point) the joints. I picked up the assembly late yesterday afternoon.
I test fit the EGR tube with the upper plenum and the old gasket and the ESM to make sure it would work. Then I installed heat sheathing from the old EGR tubes and held it in place with hose clamps.
The heat sheathing will make it more difficult to install the EGR tube but protect the electrical wiring, coolant hoses and fuel tube and hose from excess heat.
Looks good, definitely getting it done!
The Aviator uses an electrically heated PCV valve.
The 2003 Explorer utilizes a mechanically similar PCV valve that is not heated.
I plan to utilize an Explorer PCV valve.
The EGR tube with the heat sleeve was a tight fit but I was able to install it.
Fortunately, it doesn't press against the firewall.
I was unable to find a heater hose fitting with a 45 degree angle for the heater return.
So I installed a straight fitting and purchased a hose with a 45 degree bend.
Then I installed it.
I decided to use an EGR tube section of heat sleeve for the rail to rail fuel hose.
I'm saving the 3 foot length of sleeve I purchased for the oil pan to pre-oiler hose. I finished replacing the fuel rail Mach 1 higher flow injectors with my known good Explorer injectors.
I also fabricated the fuel rail to fuel supply fitting hose and installed it. Later I'll replace the end cap with a Schrader valve if there is room.
I'm ready to energize the fuel pump and check for fuel leaks.
I removed the fuel pump relay and used my battery charger to energize the fuel pump by connecting the positive terminal to the relay socket via a small flat blade screwdriver and the negative terminal to chassis ground. I tightened AN fittings until there were no leaks.
The engine wiring harnesses on the driver side are all connected.
I had to modify the alternator cable bracket that mounts to the power steering pump in order for the cable terminals to reach the alternator. The most difficult connection to make was the knock sensor connector that was close to the driver side head cooling mod. I haven't installed the wiring for the fuel rail pressure sensor and won't unless I decide to install a high flow fuel pump.
The supply hose to the front heater control valve also goes to the rear heater control valve and has a sleeve to protect it from the exhaust manifold heat.
The upper section will have to be modified to accommodate the 4 valve head with the modified cooling system.
The driver side engine wiring harness is installed.
I was able to reuse the heater valve to firewall hose.
An Apex 3/4 inch 90 degree elbow fits a 5/8 inch inside diameter hose and solved the firewall to heater return connection.
The 1 inch diameter coolant reservoir to radiator hose with heat shield (red arrow above) still fits between the engine and the body.
The installation of the replacement power steering fluid cooler is complete. With the new configuration there should be adequate room for the F350 coolant cooled ATF cooler.
I was able to use the stock hoses. I shortened the hose from the steering rack and attached it with a 135 degree 6AN fitting. I used a 90 degree 6AN fitting for the reservoir hose.
The Lightning intake tube I purchased is designed for the air filter on the driver side while the Explorer air filter is on the passenger side.
Unfortunately, I can't just flip it over because the three ports interfere with the valve cover. I plugged the port that would go to the IAC valve because that path is cast in the Mach 1 upper intake manifold. I capped the MAP port but may end up connecting it to the ESM MAP port even though the Explorer PCM tune does not support MAP sensor values. I cut the intake tube at the edge of the wedge.
I cut off the screw end on a 4.5 inch hose clamp to make a snug fit inside one section of the tube. Then I used black Shoe Goo to hold the band in place with half of the width exposed. The band aligns the two sections and adds strength to the joint.
After the glue had dried for 24 hours I glued the second tube section to the band and the first section.
After the glue had set I removed the clamps and trimmed off the excess with a diagonal cutter.
I'll touch up the inside and outside using a popsicle stick to apply the glue. Shoe Goo is rated from -40 to +180 degrees F when fully cured. It retains its flexibility that is comparable to the intake tube. I hope that it holds up in the engine compartment.
dude such nice work! I am encouraged by the egr tube using copper bits. I have had to fabricate EGR plumbing a time or two and now a new world is opened to me being able to plumb with copper. Keep up the good work! Looking forward to following along on this conversion
The modified intake tube does not align with the MAF sensor.
I'll probably have to modify the air filter box similar to what I did on my Sport.
The photo below shows the hose routing between the PCV valve and intake manifold.
At 1 is a 5/8 inch inside diameter flexible 90 degree elbow. At 2 is an Apex 3/4 to 1/2 inch reducer that is actually 5/8 to about 7/16 inch. At 3 is the 3/8 inch diameter intake port. I used a 13/32 inch inside diameter oil hose that is slightly small at 2 and slightly large at 3.
I was afraid that I damaged the power steering pump high pressure hose assembly rotating seal when bending the rigid tube section away from the engine head. Since it would be much easier to replace the hose assembly now rather than after installing the cooling system and pre-oiler hoses I decided to test for leaks. The power steering pump pulley shaft accepts an 8 mm hex shaft.
I didn't have one on hand so I cut the "L" off an extra 8 mm Allen wrench. Then I used my 3/8 inch drill and right angle drive to rotate the pulley.
The fluid level in the reservoir is still dropping so I haven't yet purged all of the air out of the system but so far I have not detected any leaks.
For the heater control valve assembly supply I purchased a Dayco 80403 heater hose and a 5/8 inch hose coupler.
Then I cut the Explorer supply hose horizontal section leaving just enough to install the coupler. I cut each section of the Dayco 80403 to mate with the coupler on one end and a 60 degree -AN 10 fitting.
With the above configuration I can replace the spark plugs without disconnecting any heater related hoses and possibly even remove/install the valve covers.
The Mach 1 intake manifold vacuum port for the power brake booster is 5/8 inch diameter but I couldn't find any readily available 5/8 inch hose rated for vacuum. Since the port on the power brake booster is 3/8 inch diameter I tested my on hand series 400 hose rated for fuel, oil and coolant with my hand vacuum pump. At my pump maximum of 25 inch of Hg vacuum there was no indication of partial collapse so I installed a 5/8 inch flexible elbow (#1 in the photo below) and brass 5/8 to 3/8 inch reducer (#2 in the photo below) at the manifold.
I installed a brass Tee (#3 above) that routes vacuum to the power brake booster hose (#4 above) and the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve main hose. Shown just above the Tee is the semi-rigid small diameter vacuum control hose for the EVAP purge valve.
The photo below shows the EVAP canister purge valve with the hose from the fuel system (#1), the main hose to the intake manifold (#2), and the control hose.
Using vacuum parts from my Explorer and a Navigator I kluged together a vacuum manifold assembly for my DOHC V8. Item 1 below is a single 3/8 inch input to 3 way output adapter (two 1/8 and one 1/4 inch). Item 2 is a single 1/4 inch input to dual 1/8 inch output adapter.
Item 3 is a right angle connector to the fuel pressure sensor. Item 4 is a connector for the HVAC controls. Item 5 is a right angle connect to the ESM.
I haven't determined where I should connect the downstream DPFE sensor port (to intake manifold) shown below.
For now it is just capped because I don't understand its purpose.
Both these vacuum ports are supposed to get vacuum from the same place, just connect them together.
The bottom one is for the sensor, reference port(vacuum in intake).
The upstream is exhaust pressure when the egr is open and the sensor compares it to the downstream one to verify the egr is working.
The top one(egr vacuum source) as you know is vacuum supply for solenoid.
To clarify, the egr vacuum source and downstream port get vacuum from intake.
Thanks John. I was hoping that you would chime in. Earlier I found the following which is what confused me:
"Though the DPFE sensor on an ESM is referred to as “DPFE” by the scan tool and also wiring diagrams, it is not a traditional DPFE sensor as used on the older EGR system. It is actually two separate MAP sensors. One MAP sensor is used to measure EGR flow after the EGR valve seat and before the flow restrictor built into the EGR base gasket. The other MAP sensor is measuring manifold pressure. The MAP sensor that is actually measuring manifold pressure serves slightly more of a purpose than to just help figure out EGR flow.
This MAP sensor is also used to calculate BARO at KOEO. This does not mean that BARO is solely calculated from this MAP sensor. The Ford PCM still uses MAF while running at 3/4 or more throttle to update BARO. However, when the engine is at KOEO, the BARO will be changed to suit the MAP sensor in the ESM."
I assumed that since my Explorer PCM is set up for DPFE and not ESM then it would not utilize the additional MAP sensor. The ESM MAP sensor electrical output is not wired because there is no corresponding input on the Explorer PCM. Sadly, there are no vacuum diagrams in my Explorer or Aviator shop manuals that show the actual vacuum routing.
Below is a diagram of the Ford DPFE system with the orifice in the EGR tube and the port upstream and downstream of the orifice going to the differential sensor.
In Ford's ESM the orifice is moved to the inlet to the EGR valve although not shown in the diagram below.
The differential sensor measures the difference between the inlet to the EGR valve and the intake manifold. From what I've determined, later Ford added another sensor dedicated to the MAP signal to calculate BARO prior to engine start.
Since your truck doesn't have a map signal input terminal in the PCM, just hook the other three wires to the DPFE wires on your PCM.
You will also have to hook the solenoid wires up to of course.
I saw in the tune for my 1998, that I could select the type of EGR system, I am hoping you can just change type to ESM and have it work properly.
Was going to experiment with it myself but got pulled in 10 different other directions. LOL.
By the way, the ESM system was much more reliable since there was not any hot gases pushing into the sensor when the valve is closed.
It lasts longer because of that change.