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Next project vehicle?

Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by 2000StreetRod, November 9, 2014.

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    1. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The stock Explorer main intake is shown below. The outside diameter of the coils is about the same as the inside diameter of the Lightning intake.
      InTube7.jpg
      So I cut off the section of the Explorer tube that mates with the MAF sensor leaving two of the coils.
      InTube8.jpg
      Then I applied Shoe Goo between the two coils and inserted the section into the Lightning hose.
      InTube9.jpg
      After the 24 hour drying time I tightened the hose clamp to reinforce the joint, applied vinyl conditioner to the Explorer section and installed the assembly. Thankfully, no modification of the air filter enclosure is needed due to the slight curve in the Explorer section.
      InTube10.jpg
       
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    3. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The Explorer throttle body is shown below. The distance between the cruise control tab and the cable mounting bracket is 5.6 inches.
      CblGuide1.jpg
      The square cutout is for the cruise control and the round cutout is for the throttle control. The Mach 1 bracket has the same cutouts.
      CblGuide3.jpg
      However, one of the previous owners had deleted the tab for the backup throttle plate return spring. So I drilled a hole in the bracket for the spring.
      CblGuide4.jpg
      The Explorer cruise control cable is about 1/8 inch short so the throttle plate does not return to the stop. The shop manual indicates there is no mechanical adjustment. However, the PCM may provide a slack adjustment via the stepper motor. If it doesn't I'll try bending the bracket. The Explorer throttle cable is excessively long so I configured a loop in it.
      ThrottleCbl.jpg
       
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    4. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The series 400 5/8 inch diameter oil hose I ordered finally arrived Tuesday so I cut it to fit and installed it with appropriate fittings. Hose 1 below with the check valve is the output from the remote filter block adapter and hose 2 is the return to the block from the remote filter.
      InOutHoses.jpg
      The remote filter mount is shown below. The 90 degree fitting item 1 is the inlet to the filter from the check valve. Item 2 is the output from the filter that goes to the block.
      RFRailMount6.jpg
      Item 3 is the inlet to the remote filter from the pre-luber. Item 4 is the inlet to the pre-luber that will come from the oil pan when I cut and fit the 1/2 inch diameter series 400 hose.
       
    5. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      About 2 weeks ago I completed the 4.6L DOHC head cooling and crossover delete mods. Today I cranked the starter and am pleased to report the engine immediately started and idled. I ran the pre-oiler for several minutes before cranking the starter and then confirmed oil pressure continued after starting via the engine oil pump.This has been a long project. I purchased the Lincoln Aviator block mid November, 2014. It took me a long time to rebuild the engine because the rod bolts on the Eagle rotating assembly are custom made by ARP and I had to wait for another production run. I started the 2003 Centennial 4.6L Engine Removal on Dec 8, 2017. The end of the project is finally approaching but there is still a lot to do. There are one or more exhaust leaks to isolate and correct. There is a slow leak at the high pressure fitting on the power steering pump even though I replaced the high pressure line/hose assembly. The cruise control cable is too short preventing the throttle plate from closing so the cable is temporarily disconnected. The service engine light is illuminated so I have to read the DTCs and act to eliminate them. I let the engine idle long enough to reach normal on the temperature gauge but I doubt it was long enough for the thermostat to open and for air to be purged from the block. Eventually, I'll datalog the engine head temperature to determine if my 180 degree thermostat results in the desired head temperature. I also need to add transmission fluid.
       
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    6. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      I cant wait to hear about your first test drive in it with the new set up!
      Congratulations on the progress!
       
    7. boominXplorer

      boominXplorer Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      Good to hear!!! You'll work out the kinks in no time!
       
    8. massacre

      massacre Elite Explorer

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      Think again.
      You would have to relocate the knock sensors, or have them removed in the tune.
      To get the Terminator lower intake/intercooler to fit a Teksid, the knock sensor bosses and a couple other spots on the block need to be taken down with an angle grinder.

      http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/TeksidTerminator/BlockWork/BlockWork.htm

      Now you guys are talking my language- I have a lot of experience with 4v Modulars
      4.0 OHV? Not as much but def more now after my head swap haha
       
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    9. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      At this point in my life (I'm 72) I doubt I'll ever add boost to the engine. My reflexes and vision are no longer good enough to safely drive fast. I was aware that due to physical interference the knock sensor bosses had to be removed to install the Cobra intake manifold and Roots type blower. For high performance I would not select a Roots type blower. When I installed an M90 on my 4.0L SOHC V6 it was mainly to improve low engine speed torque. My 2000 Sport weighs about 3900 lbs and should have been available with a V8 for decent stop and go acceleration. The 6 psi of boost significantly increased normal driving pleasure. However, even with intercooling, at mid to high engine speeds the timing advance (and associated power gain) had to be significantly reduced due to high intake air temperature. Also, I had to desensitize the knock sensor to reduce timing retard. High intake temperatures at high engine speeds seem less of a problem with centrifugal blowers. However, on my Volvo turbo wagon there was very little boost and associated acceleration improvement below 2500 rpm.

      In my opinion the optimum way to achieve boost is with a variable speed centrifugal blower that maintains the desired amount of boost at engine speeds from around 1800 rpm to max. This is very difficult to achieve with a mechanical drive but is possible with an electric motor driven blower. However, the electrical system of a typical internal combustion engine powered vehicle would require extensive modifications to support the electric motor required to drive a blower. With the advances in electric vehicles driving performance is currently available. My next vehicle will probably be a plug in rechargeable electric SUV.
       
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    10. massacre

      massacre Elite Explorer

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      I understand completely, just wanted to post it up for future reference.

      Just read through the whole thread, wow such a nice job! Good for you!
      Exhaust leaks are common, no biggie.
      Now I understand your cooling system has a lot more demands than mine, with heated PCV and heater control valves, etc. So I guess I read the cooling mod thread before this one, when I gave my advice on the cooling mod, I was trying to simplify things but now I understand what you were up against and that is anything but simple.

      Thanks for posting
       
    11. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I took a few minutes today to switch on the ignition and read the DTCs:

      P0405: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low. I anticipated some EGR issues since I'm using an EGR System Module (ESM) similar to the one used on an Aviator with characteristics that differ from those of the Explorer Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) system.
      P1000: OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete. There may be additional DTCs once the monitor test is complete.

      I was relieved that so far there are no sensor failure DTCs - especially the pre-cat O2 sensors with the difficult to access connectors. I guess it was worth the time to test all of the PCM connector pins for continuity to all the other connector pins in the new wiring harness I built.
      CentHrns.jpg
       
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    12. massacre

      massacre Elite Explorer

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      Absolutely. To not check the continuity after modifying a harness is foolish imho
       
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    13. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      I'll be interested to see if you can get the ESM system to work on the Explorer PCM. I'm guessing this will be a challenge.
       
    14. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      The 4.0 OHV V6 throttle cables are much shorter, maybe you can get rid of that loop eventually
       
    15. massacre

      massacre Elite Explorer

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      I was going to suggest a Mach1 throttle cable, I have a Mach1 intake in a 4v (not an explorer) and it fits great I bet it would fit an explorer pretty well.
       
    16. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I have the stock throttle cable from my SOHC V6 which I'll evaluate when I get a chance. I've been hesitant to invest more time and money until I got the engine running. I didn't know if I assembled the engine correctly or if the starter would be compatible with the flexplate. Now that it runs I'll proceed with installing replacement anti-sway bar end links and fixing DTCs and exhaust issues. I may need a custom tune to correct ESM issues.
       

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