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NO A/C

relays good, when jumping 86 &87a clutch engages and stays on. No cycling.
Isn't relay power supposed to be coming from pin 30.

In my experience relays always have power with key (on and sometimes even with key off). That power is sitting there waiting for a ground connection to energize the relay, then power is transferred to whatever is powered by the relay, turning it on.

Showing 12V at pin 86 sounds normal.
would it b ok to run it "jumped" for a week.
Another question, what does the eatc relay re-solder fix? does it have anything to do with compressor clutch engagement, send power to compressor?

The "EATC re-solder fix" is to re-solder the connections for a small relay inside the EATC unit which controls the A/C clutch operation.

As far as running the compressor non-stop (without allowing it to cycle) for a week. Do so at your own risk. It might be okay, but it could freeze up the evaporator or even blow a hose because the pressure is too high.
 



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There is a purple wire “AC demand” that goes between the EATC and PCM.

Relays can be triggered by 12vdc as well as 0vdc.
 






is that the same purple wire going to the low pressure switch near the firewall.
My problem is
- compressor doesnt engage
- wot relay voltages out of wack

Do you suppose the re solder (eatc relay) would change the way the wot relay gets its power, solving my problem?
 






If it’s got excess resistance it’d have lower voltages than expected. I’m not sure if that’s the same purple wire.
 






What are the pressures of high and low side?

The Shader valves leak, test with some soapy water.

Also the dryer reciever get rusty pin holes and causes leak.

I am afraid you are harming your system b/c there is not enough freon in system. That is safety shut off.
 






Shrader valves good. I only have the low pp gauge. Took the car to Goodyear, they said system is charged/holding. since compressor didnt turn on thats as far as they went. With compressor jumped at relay, show 38 on the low gauge.
Question, Im getting 13.3v on low pp switch terminal(purple wire to gnd). The high pp terminal reads .4 when i connect green/orange stripe wire to batt gnd. when reading voltage at both high pp terminals i get 13.3. Does that sound right?
 






Shrader valves good. I only have the low pp gauge. Took the car to Goodyear, they said system is charged/holding. since compressor didnt turn on thats as far as they went. With compressor jumped at relay, show 38 on the low gauge.
Question, Im getting 13.3v on low pp switch terminal(purple wire to gnd). The high pp terminal reads .4 when i connect green/orange stripe wire to batt gnd. when reading voltage at both high pp terminals i get 13.3. Does that sound right?
 






Diagram shows purple wire from eatc to low pp switch. What would cause inconsistent voltage readings here. One day i get battery voltage, the next, i get 4-6 volts?
 






Bad connection, corroded switch contacts,
 






Today I disconnected plug at low pp switch, ran 12v to red/yellow stripe wire and compressor kicked in. Would my next move be checking power(12v?) going into eatc at harness pin 25. If present, fix eatc.
Question , should there be battery voltage at purple wire from eatc to low pressure switch? Im suspecting that the inconsistent (6v) readings im getting at low pp switch is my problem.
Can someone let me know if im on the right track before i break into the dash.
Thank you.
 






Problem solved, Thank you all. Problem was the solder connection under the relay in the eatc.
 






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