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No Cruise!!! Why???

craftsman67

Active Member
Joined
January 1, 2012
Messages
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City, State
Willow Spring NC.
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer Sport
Thanks to all the great info on here, this is my first post. I joined on New Years Day of this year, and haven't had to post...until now!
I purchased my 98 Ex the week after Christmas, and I have been "lurking" since then, getting all the factory stuff working like it should. The very last thing is the "Dreaded" Cruise Control...I spent hours searching, and found out about the recalled "Speed Control Deactivator Switch". I went to my local dealership and purchased one at a very reasonable $15.41. I was hopeful this would fix my cruise issue...no such luck. I then found the Cruise Control Self-Test Diagnostics Test, and tried it. I turn the key to the on position, while holding the Off switch on the Cruise, and the light flashes once, then I press the On switch and the dash indicator flashes once again...then it says to press the Resume/Coast/Set...in that order I think. NOTHING HAPPENS!!! I read the switches could get dirty, so I took them apart and cleaned them with some CRC spray. Still no luck. All my switches seem to be in good working order, with the clicking when I press the buttons,and they appear to have been rarely used...I also checked the power to the Servo and the Brake Switch...all seems well.
Is there a second relay, other than the Horn relay that goes to the Cruise? What are the relay's under the dash next to the radio bezel? BTW I did check all fuses...about 10 times! What else can I check before I replace the control switches...just don't think they are my prob...I could be wrong???

Thanks for the help!
Scott.
 



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Does your ABS light come on? If so it could be a "backup" brake light switch on the master cylinder. I personally dont have any experience with that problem, but that is what I found when doing a little research. It could also be the switches! When I got my explorer, I had to replace all of the power seat switches, window switches, and other various items. It wouldnt surprise me if it was the switch.

Ben
 






No other lights or issues...just when I do the test, when I get to the Resume/Coast/Set part, I have no dash indicator flash, like it says I should. I guess the switches are the next thing to replace?
 






Check the yellow fuse under the hood...
 






Check the yellow fuse under the hood...

My fingers are sore from pulling and checking so many fuses...no visible burn marks or anything on the 20 maxi...guess I could check it with a meter. I have power to the servo and brake switch anyway.
 






IF you have power to the servo AND the brake switch, then you are almost there.... but not quite... :) you need to check for power coming to the pressure switch AND leaving (going toward the controller.

IF all is good, then you need to CAREFULLY get at the steering switches and check their operation AND check the wiring going thru the clockspring going to the controller... check for voltage on pin 6 at the controller when the "on" is pressed (with key on).... that's the easiest test without digging thru the clockspring which is some effort. Lastly... does your horn work??? :)
 






If your horn does not work via the pad on the steering wheel then chances are your clockspring is bad.
 






IF you have power to the servo AND the brake switch, then you are almost there.... but not quite... :) you need to check for power coming to the pressure switch AND leaving (going toward the controller.

IF all is good, then you need to CAREFULLY get at the steering switches and check their operation AND check the wiring going thru the clockspring going to the controller... check for voltage on pin 6 at the controller when the "on" is pressed (with key on).... that's the easiest test without digging thru the clockspring which is some effort. Lastly... does your horn work??? :)

The Horn works fine...where is the pressure switch you mentioned located? I must be getting SOME power to both switches. All the night lights work in both.
 






I think the "pressure switch" IS the deactivate switch that you purchase/replace. You need to check it for voltage coming in and leaving. The lights on the switches have nothing to do with whether the switches are actually doing the "job".
 






I think the "pressure switch" IS the deactivate switch that you purchase/replace. You need to check it for voltage coming in and leaving. The lights on the switches have nothing to do with whether the switches are actually doing the "job".

Are any of the "new style" brake switches known to be bad from the factory? There are just 2 wires going to the brake switch...right? How do I check the voltage coming and going to it?... I feel like a dumbass when it comes to electrical stuff...lol.
 






Are any of the "new style" brake switches known to be bad from the factory? There are just 2 wires going to the brake switch...right? How do I check the voltage coming and going to it?... I feel like a dumbass when it comes to electrical stuff...lol.

to check the switch ou need a multi meter, just touch the connection on the master cylinder (with the switch disconnected) and check to see if you get current with the brake peddle down and not pressed down. I think it is a curcuit with the peddle pressed but i can not remember but that would make sense to me.
 






to check the switch ou need a multi meter, just touch the connection on the master cylinder (with the switch disconnected) and check to see if you get current with the brake peddle down and not pressed down. I think it is a curcuit with the peddle pressed but i can not remember but that would make sense to me.

Thanks...I'll give this a try. So if I have current there, it's more than likely the steering wheel switches?
 






no it just means the switch is ok, but it seams that its either the master cylinder switch or clock switch when it happens as you describe. The best bet is to start with witch ever is cheapest to replace first.

Yu could try switching the relays around on the main fuse box only the small ones just to make sure you don't ahve faulty one first. then i would look at the cost of switches or clock switch which ever is cheapest. From looking arou8nd when mine was playing up clock switch look likey.

BUDWICH SEEMS TO KNOW HIS STUFF SEARCH HIS EARLY POSTS THIS IS HELP.

onetime

PS i am glad it was not my relays they are almost £35 each here in the uk and couldn't find a supplier of a clock switch. most we have to make do with breakers parts.
 






no it just means the switch is ok, but it seams that its either the master cylinder switch or clock switch when it happens as you describe. The best bet is to start with witch ever is cheapest to replace first.

Yu could try switching the relays around on the main fuse box only the small ones just to make sure you don't ahve faulty one first. then i would look at the cost of switches or clock switch which ever is cheapest. From looking arou8nd when mine was playing up clock switch look likey.

BUDWICH SEEMS TO KNOW HIS STUFF SEARCH HIS EARLY POSTS THIS IS HELP.

onetime

PS i am glad it was not my relays they are almost £35 each here in the uk and couldn't find a supplier of a clock switch. most we have to make do with breakers parts.
How can you test the switch for current, if the wire is unplugged? It just screws in to the master cylinder...I have power to the plugged end. It is a new switch anyway, so I really don't think it's the problem. I hope it's not the clockspring...I thought there would be a horn issue if it goes bad from what I have read??? It seems like the switches are a little bit cheaper and easier to find, but still around $75 give or take a few $$$

BTW Greetings!!! from N.C.
Scott.

P.S. I did the Relay dance...nothing.
 






to test put the meter on both connections on the switch press the brake pedal loook at the reading should make a circuit if working then do the same with out the pedal pressed should be no circuit. but if its new i think the same it most proberly not that. check ebay for the switches i was watching these when my casing broke but i superglued it back. :D

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350556324866?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

good luck from lincolnshire uk
 






to test put the meter on both connections on the switch press the brake pedal loook at the reading should make a circuit if working then do the same with out the pedal pressed should be no circuit. but if its new i think the same it most proberly not that. check ebay for the switches i was watching these when my casing broke but i superglued it back. :D

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350556324866?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

good luck from lincolnshire uk

Meter on BOTH connections...Duh!!! Now I really do feel like a dumbass! lol. Oh well... I'll try it one more time, but I think I do need the switches. Thanks for the link! Are you sure you don't need them? I hate to bid against someone trying to help me. I see it ends today. I'll try a last minute bid or 2 if you don't need them.

Thanks for the help, onetime!

I forgot to mention before, I replaced a Washer Motor relay a few days ago. I paid about $14 at Autozone...thought that was a little much, for what it is. Anyway.... I put the new one in the Horn/Cruise slot.

Any idea how much that is over there?... just curious.
 






no i dont need them, i can get some locally in the uk if i need them. good luck let us know how you get on. the prices are high here, the horn relay is £35 about $56. great isn't it.

http://parts.usautomotive.co.uk/CatGroup.aspx?NoCache=634700957169264443#

this is about the only place here to get new parts a couple of others but its direct from the Ford steelers otherwise and a remortage to pay for it. I had to pay £290 for a upper control arm last year.

onetime
 






The cruise did not work for me either and occasionally the ABS light would come on. I ended up changing the backup switch on the master cylinder and found that was the problem.
 






no i dont need them, i can get some locally in the uk if i need them. good luck let us know how you get on. the prices are high here, the horn relay is £35 about $56. great isn't it.

http://parts.usautomotive.co.uk/CatGroup.aspx?NoCache=634700957169264443#

this is about the only place here to get new parts a couple of others but its direct from the Ford steelers otherwise and a remortage to pay for it. I had to pay £290 for a upper control arm last year.

onetime

Damn! I feel lucky then... Does it cost that much more to ship overseas? Sorry dude.
 



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The cruise did not work for me either and occasionally the ABS light would come on. I ended up changing the backup switch on the master cylinder and found that was the problem.

I wish I could have been so lucky!... lol. I have had no ABS issues...knock on wood!
 






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