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Not another V8 swap thread (N2Ford)

Right now its just a thought, but I've been thinking of booting on an 8 lug brake setup, using either an adapter or 8 lug unit bearing, would be nice to find a complete spindle I could simply just swap on. My Trac sits at about 6k, and with me doing quite a bit of towing (towing my ranger to STL I was easily 13k), I really could benefit from bigger better brakes. I really like my Trac, but I really need a superduty for what I do, lol...

SVT
 



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I gotcha, you would need a higher actual brake power.

That level would be overkill for a stockish 4500lbs Explorer, and make the brakes/tires lock up at speed easily. The first brakes I had(OEM 1965-82 Corvette calipers(2x 1.875" pistons)) did lock up the brakes at full pedal at 80mph. The ABS was very busy if I mashed the brakes. The SSBC calipers I have now are the smaller of two options, and these are a good match to my 4700lbs truck.

Those big Wilwood calipers are bigger in area than the Corvette pieces, so I expect I'll have to change the master cylinder also to reduce the power a little.

So I'm not sure how close those would be for your truck. I did begin my custom brake project with calls for advice from pros. I found a man(Todd of TCE) at a well known business who does a lot of brake work, and he steered me to the rotors, and I had him make the rotor hats. I have three sets of them, and a fourth which he made up from an existing Subaru hat.

It may be possible to combine some of what I've worked with, and have for spare pieces, together and create something worthy of a heavier truck. The brake power does need to match the vehicle weight and master cylinder etc. For sure the appearance brake choices will be inadequate for you if you do have a 6k weight.

I will try to keep that in mind when I do get serious with the custom caliper brackets. Those are the big key to any upgrade, they locate the other parts. I'll see if it's possible to make them work with a slightly different rotor thickness(which means moving the caliper outboard). That requires the rotor to set out a matching amount, so a question to Todd might discover that the rotor hats can be turned down(offsets the rotor outboard).

I like the 12.75" size because it lets me use the 16" wheels with snow tires I have for rare Winter use. If that wasn't a restriction, a 13.75" rotor would then make the restriction 17" wheels.

I'll let you know if I make good progress on my Lincoln(it needs paint bad), and my Mercury too(TLC, corrosion work, AC, and stereo).:salute:
 






I run a 20" wheel, so I'm limited to about a 17" rotor, but I don't need that extreme. The cobra brakes I was going to use the rotors only. On my ranger I upgraded to superduty hydroboost and master cylinder, but I'm also running a king pin Dana 60 up front and a Dana 60 out back from a 99 E350 with factory dual piston disc brakes. Thought about upgrading the Trac with hydroboost. Stepping up to a 13" front rotor I should he able to keep the stock caliper. When I get my new 9 ton axles for my ranger later this year, the 60's are going under the trac, so I'll probably only have this problem for another year anyways...

SVT
 






Very good, put the big truck axles under it and the needed brakes come with them.

I'm looking for the whole wiring harness from a 99-02(maybe to 04) Mustang GT auto, plus the hydro boost brakes and ABS, for my 91 Lincoln.

Are you anywhere near to Madisonville or familiar with "yards" there? I've forgotten the man who was dealing in all Mustangs about ten years ago there, and he sold off everything older than 1998 to only deal with 99+ Mustangs. I might be able to drive down there to find it again, but a name would be helpful too.
 






Would it have been Restang? That comes up under google for directions and info. He rebuilds and sells parts for Mustangs and is in Madisonville. There are also a couple of Mustang yards in Sevier county. I might be able to find info on them if you need it.
 






Would it have been Restang? That comes up under google for directions and info. He rebuilds and sells parts for Mustangs and is in Madisonville. There are also a couple of Mustang yards in Sevier county. I might be able to find info on them if you need it.

Thanks, that doesn't ring a bell though, back then he didn't have a business name yet. He was a couple of miles or less south of the 411hwy interchange as I recall. I used to work at the Madison Ford there(1988), and discovered several Ford friendly places in the area.

I appreciate the help, it's just that on eBay or local yards(hate to mention Knox Auto Parts), they want about triple what some parts are worth.
 






I'm surprised your 91 didn't have hydroboost, most came with them. There's a yard in Evansville I go to frequently that has several 99+ mustangs, I could get what you need from there. They charge a set price for parts, no matter what its our of. David, do you have any sport Trac junkyards your way? I could use a couple parts...

SVT
 






There are a few that have one or two, send me a list of what you need and I will check next time I go junkin. It will be several weeks before I can go.
 












I'm surprised your 91 didn't have hydroboost, most came with them. There's a yard in Evansville I go to frequently that has several 99+ mustangs, I could get what you need from there. They charge a set price for parts, no matter what its our of. David, do you have any sport Trac junkyards your way? I could use a couple parts...

SVT

The 84 and 85 Mark VI*I had hydro boost, I owned an 85 for a while. The 86-92 got the TEVES brakes, which uses an actual electric pressure pump, accumulator, plus relays etc. I want to make my conversion using very little of the original wiring, that was the kind with lots of single unique relays scattered throughout the car, and tons of wires for the air suspension, ABS, plus many fusible links.

I'd love to get help for the 99+ Mustang wiring, but I'm sure you know how slow it is to remove whole harnesses.

I'm hoping that place is still doing well in Madisonville, and he might have many parted out cars organized like he used to with the older cars. He had a Lightning conversion almost done on a four door F150, and two Cobra engine/trans setting on pallets, just bought. He was just getting busy, and I just dropped in then for a 94 k-member and two Roush F150 wheels(mt friend needed the tires for his Lightning). The man was an organized guy, I think he would be doing things right if he's still at it.
 






Those Lincolns are nice cars, I always liked the styling of the 87-88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe to.

RangerSVT on the Sport Trac I know your using the Explorer ABS module for the speedometer. I was just curious did the Explorer have the same gear ratio as the Sport Trac? I know you can make up the difference somewhat with tire ratio, but I figured the Trac would be 4:10 possibly 3:73, not sure with the Explorer.
 












I thought the 98-01 Explorer/Mountaineer was programmed through the ABS module for the speedometer? That it received a signal from the rear abs sensor, and was corrected through the ABS module and sent on to the PCM, Speedometer, and Cruise Control.
 






The abs module doesn't program, it converts the signal. The ecu corrects the signal, which is determined by gear ratio and tire size, both of which are programmable. Before the custon tune could be finished for my setup both gear and tire size had to be entered....

SVT
 






I was reading about the NGS and WDS tools for programming the ABS module, so got a bit confused there, but I guess a tuner does the same job.
 






Picked up a dual core rad and shroud today, and took some measurements on driveshafts, looks like a 2wd expedition is a direct swap. I'll get the rad in tomorrow morning, and double check the driveshaft measurements before heading to pick one up...

SVT
 






The Sport Trac late 01-05 should all be Pats E, only the early 01 Job 1 Sport Tracs had Pats B. You will need to either wire in the Pats B, or delete it with a tune. I don't think it would be to hard to wire in Pats B though, some of the Ranger guys have already done it. Also when going from Pats E to to B the theft light won't blink any longer, but there is a fix for that as well.

I just saw this, lol. Thanks for the info. I'm actually going to try something else first...

SVT
 






If it matters when doing the programming I will be putting the 285/75/16's back on when I get it back. That's great if that shaft works, can't believe I missed that one when I was crawling under a hundred different trucks and suv's at pull a part back in the winter on a windy 30 degree day.
 






So I worked on this a little more. Got the battery terminals done. Pulled the trans pan, its never been pulled since it was installed new at the factory, the "popsicle stick" is the tell tale sign. Fluid looks darker than what it is, but overall very clean for a 98k trans...

IMAG1556.jpg


Here is the pan cleaned...

IMAG1557.jpg


So with all the fluids & filters now changed, except for power steering fluid, need to get some, I tried tricking the ecu into thinking the pats module was giving the all clear to run. Didnt happen, so heading to the junkyard tomorrow for pats parts, driveshafts as I got the measurements, and some odds and ends. So, I decided to check my wiring since I haven't tested anything up to this point, to make sure it was just the pats killing it. I hooked up my test ecu to test. Oh yeah, had to throw this in...



SVT
 



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