Not sure if the transmission shop is trying to rip me off!

[Seville]

Hello, I have a 2000 V6 Ford Explorer. For the past few months I've been getting the infamous third shift flare. It flares about 300 RPMs above and then catches. I've read that the majority of the issues is caused by a valve body gasket. I took it to my local transmission shop and they stated that it was throwing the code PO7033, they stated could replace the valve body with the solenoid pack and that would be $650. They said it is a 50-50 chance if it is the valve body or the transmission. I really do not want to throw this kind of money for something that could possibly work. They assured me that it had nothing to do with the valve body gasket, even though they did not open it up to look at it.

I do not trust the majority of auto shops, in your experience, what would you recommend?

I contacted another transition shop that was highly rated, they said it could be the valve body gasket, but they would have to take my pan off and look to visually see if it is torn or not and that would cost $175.

So my options are, leave it alone and deal with the flare? I don't know if it will get worse if I ignore it.

Try to pay someone $175 to see if the gasket is bad, but the other shop said that's not an issue.

Or pay $650 to replace the valve body and solenoid pack. But that will only be a 50-50 chance of fixing the issue.

Which transmission shop is telling the truth, and what is the best advice you can give me? btw my car has 130k miles on it.

Thanks everyone for their time!

 

[BKennedy]

Awesome, you live local.

What shops have you been into for estimates?

Take it to Poway Transmission, ask for Eldon. Tell him Brian Kennedy, the guy with the white 94' off-road Explorer sent you over there. Eldon is a old school off road, hot rod, drag car dude and very interesting to talk to (if you like talking to old dudes who have done a lot of cool **** in their lives). If he is there or not there, have them give you the free test drive and transmission check. Be prepared to drop it off for a while. The shop manager is a little pushy but they do excellent work and won't rip you off. Eldon has given me a few small parts, fixed my transmission built by another shop, rebuilt my 2010 Ranger transmission in a day when I was in the hospital and it blew up on my daughter. At first the manager told my daughter he didn't have time to rebuild it quickly and it would take a week, then she talked to Eldon and he put it in the front of the line to get it done for me. He also replaced the transmission in our old Volvo S60. They are not cheap, but the shop is always full and he gets lots of repeat business.

If they have to pull the transmission ask them to check the engine main seal while its out, and replace if leaking. He R&R'd the trans in the Ranger so fast I didn't have a chance to ask him to replace the leaking seal.

Home Page - Poway Transmissions

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

The only way to know for sure is to take it apart. I am not experienced enough to say one way or another. However, Might as well try the valve body and solenoids first, because it can still be utilized and advantageous should the problem be somewhere else or if a full rebuild is needed anyway, no real big loss except the labor of installing the valve body.

 

[Seville]

can anyone tell me why it would be just the valve body gasket? it seems like that is the major issue these cars have.

 

[Mbrooks420]

can anyone tell me why it would be just the valve body gasket? it seems like that is the major issue these cars have.

They hold pressure to one of the circuits. When they blow out, possibly due to loosened bolts, they cause low pressure to that circuit.

 

[domct203]

Third shift flare, and P7033 could be the intermediate servo bore wear problem if this is the 5R55 series transmission. This is something that can be addressed without removing the transmission.

If you had a selenoid/valve body issue I would think that you would have different trouble codes that would be related to pressure issues.

Do you know which transmission you have?

 

[transman304]

It will be the 5R55E as the S/W series didn’t start until 2002. Also no solenoid pack on this model,all separate solenoids. Very seldom see a solenoid go bad on these units other than the EPC. Bad valve body gaskets usually will cause several codes. You could try adjusting the intermediate band and see if that helps or as @domct203 stated the servo bore wear or bad servo piston is big a known issue with these units. I didn’t see the mileage listed but higher mileage vehicles also will have Valve Body wear. Good luck
Brad

 

[D.Reed]

Hello, I have a 2000 V6 Ford Explorer. For the past few months I've been getting the infamous third shift flare. It flares about 300 RPMs above and then catches. I've read that the majority of the issues is caused by a valve body gasket. I took it to my local transmission shop and they stated that it was throwing the code PO7033, they stated could replace the valve body with the solenoid pack and that would be $650. They said it is a 50-50 chance if it is the valve body or the transmission. I really do not want to throw this kind of money for something that could possibly work. They assured me that it had nothing to do with the valve body gasket, even though they did not open it up to look at it.

I do not trust the majority of auto shops, in your experience, what would you recommend?

I contacted another transition shop that was highly rated, they said it could be the valve body gasket, but they would have to take my pan off and look to visually see if it is torn or not and that would cost $175.

So my options are, leave it alone and deal with the flare? I don't know if it will get worse if I ignore it.

Try to pay someone $175 to see if the gasket is bad, but the other shop said that's not an issue.

Or pay $650 to replace the valve body and solenoid pack. But that will only be a 50-50 chance of fixing the issue.

Which transmission shop is telling the truth, and what is the best advice you can give me? btw my car has 130k miles on it.

Thanks everyone for their time!

My 08 Sport Trac was doing that(revving up to 3000rpm w/o any acceleration). I'd put it in neutral ,then into drive and that would take care of it. Finally took it to Auto Zone after one of these episodes and they coded a Solenoid A. Took it to a local "reputable" Trans shop and they said : "we'll put it on a much fancier diagnostic machine" and get back to ya.Take it over there Feb.18 They call back saying complete trans Rebuild needed. Plus needs new bushings and driveshaft needs to be replaced because yokes and u joints a bad. Also says won't warranty the tranny rebuild w/o replacing driveshaft. I say ok. $3900 bill.He says it'll be ready on the 22nd but calls late 21st and says good news, it's ready! I go pick it up and drives great for a few blocks then wrench light comes on. I start to turn around but light goes off and it continues to drive fine to my house(2.5 miles(?). Wife and I get in ST to drive back to pick up my Jeep back where I parked it and ST immediately starts "whining" like it won't shift to 2nd gear.Also Wrench& Engine lights come on. So I drive it at 5 mph back to Shop. Guy's apologetic and say's he'll get right on it. Guy calls back and say's my"computers fried". Has to order from New York and it'll be Friday(3/1) before he gets part in. He calls back, says his "computer guy" is coming in to program the computer on Sat(3/2) and that it should be ready on Mon or Tues. Well today is Wed(3/6). I go by there after work today and talk to him and he says we're just stumped ! Worked on many ST 's and never had this kind of problem. I tell him.." the longer this goes on the more worried I get about if I'm going to be out of a vehicle as well as $3900+" . He assures me he'll get my truck back running right and that it'll be good for a long time. I guess I gotta trust him. I think of how people say don't take it back to a Dealer for maintenance but I wish I'd have taken my ST to a Ford Dealer to have this corrected!

 

[ptf18]

D.Reed. Your story is what gives industries poor/bad names. Not only mechanic shops but also doctors, lawyers and candlestick makers, etc. I've NEVER had the much needed confidence in most all "industries" doing the job you hire them to do. BUT there are some things that one has to hope for the best and "trust" that whatever your need is it gets done correctly....the 1st time.

Best of luck and keep us posted.

 

[D.Reed]

My 08 Sport Trac was doing that(revving up to 3000rpm w/o any acceleration). I'd put it in neutral ,then into drive and that would take care of it. Finally took it to Auto Zone after one of these episodes and they coded a Solenoid A. Took it to a local "reputable" Trans shop and they said : "we'll put it on a much fancier diagnostic machine" and get back to ya.Take it over there Feb.18 They call back saying complete trans Rebuild needed. Plus needs new bushings and driveshaft needs to be replaced because yokes and u joints a bad. Also says won't warranty the tranny rebuild w/o replacing driveshaft. I say ok. $3900 bill.He says it'll be ready on the 22nd but calls late 21st and says good news, it's ready! I go pick it up and drives great for a few blocks then wrench light comes on. I start to turn around but light goes off and it continues to drive fine to my house(2.5 miles(?). Wife and I get in ST to drive back to pick up my Jeep back where I parked it and ST immediately starts "whining" like it won't shift to 2nd gear.Also Wrench& Engine lights come on. So I drive it at 5 mph back to Shop. Guy's apologetic and say's he'll get right on it. Guy calls back and say's my"computers fried". Has to order from New York and it'll be Friday(3/1) before he gets part in. He calls back, says his "computer guy" is coming in to program the computer on Sat(3/2) and that it should be ready on Mon or Tues. Well today is Wed(3/6). I go by there after work today and talk to him and he says we're just stumped ! Worked on many ST 's and never had this kind of problem. I tell him.." the longer this goes on the more worried I get about if I'm going to be out of a vehicle as well as $3900+" . He assures me he'll get my truck back running right and that it'll be good for a long time. I guess I gotta trust him. I think of how people say don't take it back to a Dealer for maintenance but I wish I'd have taken my ST to a Ford Dealer to have this corrected!

After several attempts to remedy my Computer issue "GUY" gives up and takes it to Local Ford Dealer/shop & they have it fixed in one day. I 've had my ST for almost a week now and it runs LIKE A Champ! No hard shifting, No slippage/revving up to 3000 rpm. I hated not having my vehicle for 30 + days but am happy at the way it drives now.

 

[D.Reed]

Hello, I have a 2000 V6 Ford Explorer. For the past few months I've been getting the infamous third shift flare. It flares about 300 RPMs above and then catches. I've read that the majority of the issues is caused by a valve body gasket. I took it to my local transmission shop and they stated that it was throwing the code PO7033, they stated could replace the valve body with the solenoid pack and that would be $650. They said it is a 50-50 chance if it is the valve body or the transmission. I really do not want to throw this kind of money for something that could possibly work. They assured me that it had nothing to do with the valve body gasket, even though they did not open it up to look at it.

I do not trust the majority of auto shops, in your experience, what would you recommend?

I contacted another transition shop that was highly rated, they said it could be the valve body gasket, but they would have to take my pan off and look to visually see if it is torn or not and that would cost $175.

So my options are, leave it alone and deal with the flare? I don't know if it will get worse if I ignore it.

Try to pay someone $175 to see if the gasket is bad, but the other shop said that's not an issue.

Or pay $650 to replace the valve body and solenoid pack. But that will only be a 50-50 chance of fixing the issue.

Which transmission shop is telling the truth, and what is the best advice you can give me? btw my car has 130k miles on it.

Thanks everyone for their time!

As I've said: just got my 08 ST back from the local trans shop. I went in shortly after I took it in and the "Guy" took me back to show me what his guy was doing . His guy showed me one of the solenoids and how it would push in but get stuck when it should have "sprung" back out.That was the problem with the revving issue I was having shifting from 1st & 2nd or 2nd & 3rd , I guess. These guy's fixed my transmission,put new "bushings"(?) & a new driveshaft and now my truck drives great but in the process they messed up my computer and after several attempts to fix ended up taking it to a Ford dealer and they fixed it. Over 30 days (computer for the majority of the time) they had my truck. If I had it to do all over again I MIGHT go to Ford dealer first. I don't think they could have charged me any more than I WAS charged($3900+)

 

[D.Reed]

D.Reed. Your story is what gives industries poor/bad names. Not only mechanic shops but also doctors, lawyers and candlestick makers, etc. I've NEVER had the much needed confidence in most all "industries" doing the job you hire them to do. BUT there are some things that one has to hope for the best and "trust" that whatever your need is it gets done correctly....the 1st time.

Best of luck and keep us posted.

Got my ST back earlier this week and it drives GREAT. Smooth shifting. I'm happy now but dang being w/o my truck for over a month had crazy thoughts going through my head. I've posted below w/ details .

 

[D.Reed]

Truck still shifting smoothly and driving great but now WRENCH light comes on if I drive it long enough. To (3.5mi.) and from work no light but if I was to go much farther then wrench light might come on. GET THIS ! I was looking under the hood around the area above the right front wheel. There are some wires and I noticed of all things something that looks like one of those stick pins that looks like a T . The kind your mom had in her sewing kit. It was stuck in along side a wire ,I guess to shem the wire to keep it from coming out.??? I have no Idea.

 

[transman304]

the T pin is used to back probe a connector or pierce a wire for testing. Much better ways to do it.