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OD FLashing....

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by CustomCoffinWork, July 14, 2016.

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  1. CustomCoffinWork

    CustomCoffinWork New Member

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    And now that the air works fine, the OD lights starts to flash and then the check enigine lioght is on. It reads a P0775 code. So I'm, now looking at a rebuilt transmission for $2500. They say the machine shop will bore out the servo hole and resleve it. Is there any thing I should tell them to also do while it is apart? I hate to put that kind of cash into it but the rest of the car looks so good. Thoughts?
     
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  3. imp

    imp Well-Known Member

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    Ask the repair guy to explain how and why a Solenoid failure code calls for rebuilding the transmission. imp
     
  4. CustomCoffinWork

    CustomCoffinWork New Member

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    Last o checked it was a known issues with this transmission that the servo bore wears out. It until 2013 that someone came up with a re-sleveing repair
     
  5. TechGuru

    TechGuru Well-Known Member

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    I've been just ignoring mine. I just get a hard jerk on thr 3rd to 4th gear shift. I've developed a habit of letting off the throttle for the shift. Other than that I have no slipping or anything. I think it all depends on which solenoid is giving you a problem. For me it's pressure control solenoid B I think causing the pressure to always run high.

    Your CEL should be a separate issue though. CEL is for the engine, O/D flash is for the transmission.
     
  6. CustomCoffinWork

    CustomCoffinWork New Member

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    CEL is the P0775 code. The transmission is controlled by the ECM. The selenoid b controls the second and fifth gear bands. Due to over pressure it breaks the end of the band.
     
  7. cw212010

    cw212010 Member

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    Replace the solenoids and tell the repair guy where to go.
     
  8. shadowless127

    shadowless127 Well-Known Member

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    If you are replacing solenoids now, you will eventually have to replace the entire thing. So do you want to spend the money now, or later?
     
  9. imp

    imp Well-Known Member

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    Good point! Consider number of miles on the transmission, severity of duty, towing a lot, age (value) of vehicle, to decide. I bought a solenoid module new for $185, put it in, that was 53,000 miles ago, it had 100K then. Could have rebuilt trans for a ton of money, it proved unnecessary, but crystal balls don't work, so give it some thought. imp
     
  10. CustomCoffinWork

    CustomCoffinWork New Member

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    Well the rescherch I found showed the coeerect repair is the line boring of the hole the shaft rides in and rebushing it. A P0775 is about seleniod "B" which is not in the seliniod pack in the pan, but the selenoid above the pan that presses against the overdrive drum band. I just hate to waste $200-300 on a seliniod pack only to find it still have the same problem. The truck is in mint condition with no signs of ever been used for towing as the reciever still looks brand new with now scuffs. The truck had 145,000 on it. The timing chains are noises but being the 4.6 I can handle that (in the middle of changing out chians on my other Ex 4.0 now). I'd like to keep the truck, but man, almost the KBB price on just fixing the transmission.
     
  11. shadowless127

    shadowless127 Well-Known Member

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    You're in a tough spot. On my old 03 I had issues with solenoids at 60K. Dealer repaired under warranty, but 25K miles later the problem appeared again. However, I had my issue resolved PRIOR to any trouble codes/warning lights coming on; I just noticed the 2-3 shift flare and immediately scheduled an appt with the dealer. My mom on the other hand (04 Aviator) had ZERO issues with the transmission till about 115K miles, and it went from flashing OD light with 2-3 shift flare, to no gears within a relatively short period of time.

    These transmission are super unpredictable, so you're basically gambling with taking the cheaper route. Decide how long you want to keep the vehicle, if you can afford to potentially "waste" $200-300, and then go from there.
     
  12. imp

    imp Well-Known Member

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    I think what's happening here is that you are confusing the Overdrive Servo, which is a hydraulic/mechanical device with one of the Solenoids, which are electrically operated mechanical devices which control hydraulic pressure and direction of hydraulic oil flow. PCA PCB and PCC are the three Pressure Control Solenoids. They are all part of the Solenoid Block Assembly, which is bolted to the valve body, inside of the oil pan. Where you got the idea that PCB is not in the oil pan, I don't know. P0775 concerns PCB; here's what the Ford Shop Manual says: P0775: PCB "Solenoid or Circuit Fault". Condition: "PCB Functional Fault- Low Pressure. Symptom: "Incorrect Shift Pattern indicating mechanical or hydraulic failure of the transmission. Will turn on MIL light.

    The Servo access is outside of the transmission, on the RH side. The Overdrive Servo is the one closest to the front of the transmission. It should be opened and the parts inspected. If all looks good, the PCB Solenoid would then be suspected. We can't go much farther here, because you never described the original symptoms: noise, no 5th. gear, rough shift to 5th. gear, what?

    PCB can be checked for electrical integrity outside of the transmission, without opening it up. If the coil is burned out, or shorted to ground, PCB will have to be replaced. If it is OK electrically, it may still have failed mechanically. The bushing which guides it's plunger sometimes crumbles to bits, preventing the plunger from moving. I have heard that energizing the Solenoid will produce an audible "click"; this would confirm the plunger is moving properly. I cannot say whether that idea is fictitious, and think the pan would have to be removed to hear it. No, don't go blindly replacing a Solenoid Block without testing the solenoids first. A GOOD transmission guy can do this, but he would also have to be an honest man. Much more dough to be made tearing into things, or replacing the whole transmission. Good luck. imp
     
  13. TechGuru

    TechGuru Well-Known Member

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  14. CustomCoffinWork

    CustomCoffinWork New Member

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    When I first noticed something amiss, it was accelerating from a light. It seemed like a spolling sound going into second gear (maybe third as I'm not sure if the autos start out in first). No lights came on at the time. Then while driving down the freeway around 70 mph the od started to flash. I noticed if I lifted my foot off the pedal the rpm would drop to idle while the truck was still traveling at 70+ mph. At this time still no CEL light was on. I got home and parked it from the night. The next morning the CEL was on. P0775 is what it said. Now, I can drive it but the OD will eventually come on flashing again with the CEL staying lit. Does describe it any better for you?
     
  15. CustomCoffinWork

    CustomCoffinWork New Member

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    I wouldn't know where to do this anyway...Hell, I hate even appling 9v the injectors to clean them..lol
     
  16. CustomCoffinWork

    CustomCoffinWork New Member

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    Can I swap a servp pack from a 4.0L 2wd from the same year to see if it solves the problem? I have a red EX waiting to pull the motor for a timing chain replacement. I could borrow the pack and see if it goes away if they are the same. ?? Thanks everyone who is helping me on this. Living paycheck to paycheck doesn't help these days.
     
  17. TechGuru

    TechGuru Well-Known Member

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  18. CustomCoffinWork

    CustomCoffinWork New Member

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    Well then I think an experament is in order here...I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks TechGuru
     
  19. Harpua216

    Harpua216 Active Member

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    i was going through this same issue and still am. I looked at buying the servo sleeve kit for 99$ but figured why stop there? might as well do the IM and buy the $200 kit, then definitely the modified tools so its less of a b*tch on my back.

    ...but while i am down there, i should drop the pan, maybe get a new filter and who knows what I will find in the bottom of the pan, plus how many quarts of fluid I would need to buy at 5-7$ a pop for the Mercon V.

    I dont believe that I am a "rebuilt" or "reman" kinda guy so I looked for something and had some patience. i luckily found a trans out of a running police truck with 88K and a timing slap no mechanic wanted to touch. so for $450 I can take a shot and if it doesnt work good, perhaps I will get lucky with a part swap.

    these trucks look great but its either/or with the trans and the motor. i wouldnt put $2500 into it as i could probably find a whole that cheap.
     
  20. imp

    imp Well-Known Member

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    From where do you draw this information? See Below. imp

    1. Proceed with finding the appropriate wires that correspond to the torque converter clutch. In most cases, it will be two wires; one for a ground and one for power. Apply power and ground and listen for the solenoid to click.
    2. If the solenoid does not click, proceed with checking continuity across the solenoid and continuity to and from the corresponding wires to and from the sensor. The solenoid should have a low ohm (.02 to .05) reading, this will vary with manufacturers so verify your reading with a factory service manual or equivalent. The wires should also have a low ohm reading. Also, make sure neither wire are shorted to ground or power.
    3. If the wires check out and the solenoid clicks. There may be a PCM issue, but I advise one to pull the transmission pan and closely examine the TCC solenoid for debris. Any small amount of debris will cause the solenoid to "short" and trick the computer into thinking it is applied. Or, if it’s metallic debris, it will attach itself to the solenoid and prevent it from disengaging. This was the problem in my case.
    http://www.obd-codes.com/p0743
     
  21. TechGuru

    TechGuru Well-Known Member

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    I am NOT talking about the TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH solenoid, I am talking about the solenoids that are part of the SOLENOID PACK.
     

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