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Oil Change interval

For what it is worth Valvoline CONVENTIONAL motor oil meets the following

Ford WSSM2C946A for SAE 5W30
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-FORD WSSM2C945A
for SAE 5W20

Be careful of filters from companies that merely buy them from someone else with their name slapped on them,ie; Mobil 1, Royal Purple K & N etc. They can and do change who is making their filters. A quality filter such as Frams Ultra or Wix XD are synthetic filters with better filter media than paper filters. If you want details go to "Bob is The Oil Guy". Plenty of filters cut open and photos of their condition and discussion on level of quality.

BTW, you can buy the Fram Ultra or Wix XD from Rock Auto for about half of what you would pay at Auto Zone or other auto parts stores.
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GM 6094M **
SAE 5W
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20
SAE 5W
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30 SAE
 



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correct, manufacturers calibrate the oil life gauge or interval to a certain oil that the manual states to use before the engines worn out. I know changing the oil when it turns black is on the early side but it makes me feel better:D.
One car I have burns 2 liters of oil in 500 miles and turns it almost a soot color due to fuel contamination, its mean for a hi boost application, umm yes I drive it very gently?o_O
 






If it makes you feel better go for it, hurts nothing. Used oil used to get dumped or burned but with the recycling of used motor oil it ends back in the refining process. Our local municipality sends the used oil to a re-refiner and then buys oil back after processing. It gets used it in our police cars and other municipal vehicles. I use Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Life synthetic on our two vehicles. It gives me piece of mind that I am using a high quality lubricant but honestly I have no data to support using Mobil 1 over a conventional such as Pennzoil Yellow Bottle (PYB) Valvoline or Castrol. There is good data that changing before the Mfg's recommended interval or using Synthetic is a waste of money. Consumers Reports believes this as well as the Edmunds article reference above.
 






Anyone here ever had an engine failure or excess wear because of the type of oil used, or specific interval between changes?
Those that track, not need to reply, this question is geared towards the daily drivers.
I'm not a betting man, but will wager that none have and oil changes should be the least concern; provided it's consistently changed.
 






Hi,
My first oil change is due soon on my 2017 Platinum and I am looking between the Mobil 1 Ex. Performance and the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Any recommendations? Also the recommended oil from Mobil is 10w30 (didn't see it in the Ford manual) but is this my best choice for New England weather and lots of city driving? Thanks!
 






Manual states 5w30 and I believe the oil fill cap states the same under the hood.

Used to run Mobil 1 synthetic but no need in the Explorer. I have run Motorcraft semi-semi-synthetic since day 1, 104k on it with 9,500-10k mile intervals.

All is good.
 






Oh no.....not this debate again......please no!

PLEASE!
 












Hi,
My first oil change is due soon on my 2017 Platinum and I am looking between the Mobil 1 Ex. Performance and the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Any recommendations? Also the recommended oil from Mobil is 10w30 (didn't see it in the Ford manual) but is this my best choice for New England weather and lots of city driving? Thanks!

Either Mobil 1 Extended Performance or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum will serve you well in your turbocharged engine. Add a Fram Ultra filter, and you'll be all set for New England's climate and your city driving. But use 5w30 viscosity as specified by Ford for the 3.5-liter Ecoboost engine. I visited the Mobil 1 website, and they also recommend 5w30:

"Based on what you've told us, your vehicle manufacturer recommends a 5W-30 viscosity and oil that meets Ford WSS-M2C946-A. A 0W-30 viscosity can also be used. Your engine oil capacity is approximately 6 quarts. We offer these motor oils to help protect your vehicle."
 












Mobil 1 filters have been excellent for at least the past 15 years.

Fram, not so much.

Either way, stay with OEM filters
 






Anyone here ever had an engine failure or excess wear because of the type of oil used, or specific interval between changes?
Oh yea
Back in 74 I was living in Michigan and needed some wheels so I found this Volkswagon Notchback sedan with a pancake engine in it. Dual carbs and was fast for a VW.
I picked up the car for $300.00 and drove to visit some relatives at the lake. It was a hot summer day. Just before i reached the destination the engine began to fail. Getting there I shut it off and checked the oil which was low and dark. The engine breathed it's last that day.
After swapping a free engine I decided to dismantle the pancake engine. All the crank bearing caps came off ok cept one. All the pistons came out cept one. Lifting the crank out and tapping the piston with it i finally got the piston out. The bearing had melted and liquified and spun around the crank. Sorta chiseling a thin spot I finally was able to separate the piston from the crank. The bearing was like spring material and bounced back to shape around the crank after pulling it off. I left it in the rod and put the whole thing in the attic of the garage and forgot about it. Complete oil failure from being low and old and got hot.
 






OEM filters are just a rebadged filter made by someone else. Nothing wrong with them but they are not superior to the filters available in any auto parts store. The Fram Ultra or WIX XP use synthetic media that is superior to pleated paper filters.
 






Oh yea
Back in 74 I was living in Michigan and needed some wheels so I found this Volkswagon Notchback sedan with a pancake engine in it. Dual carbs and was fast for a VW.
I picked up the car for $300.00 and drove to visit some relatives at the lake. It was a hot summer day. Just before i reached the destination the engine began to fail. Getting there I shut it off and checked the oil which was low and dark. The engine breathed it's last that day.
After swapping a free engine I decided to dismantle the pancake engine. All the crank bearing caps came off ok cept one. All the pistons came out cept one. Lifting the crank out and tapping the piston with it i finally got the piston out. The bearing had melted and liquified and spun around the crank. Sorta chiseling a thin spot I finally was able to separate the piston from the crank. The bearing was like spring material and bounced back to shape around the crank after pulling it off. I left it in the rod and put the whole thing in the attic of the garage and forgot about it. Complete oil failure from being low and old and got hot.
This is actually quite common in a Volks engine and has nothing to do with old dirty oil. It usually came from oil starvation for just a few seconds. With the Volks engine being air cooled along with running a oil cooler overheating was also quite common.
 






Either Mobil 1 Extended Performance or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum will serve you well in your turbocharged engine. Add a Fram Ultra filter, and you'll be all set for New England's climate and your city driving. But use 5w30 viscosity as specified by Ford for the 3.5-liter Ecoboost engine. I visited the Mobil 1 website, and they also recommend 5w30:

"Based on what you've told us, your vehicle manufacturer recommends a 5W-30 viscosity and oil that meets Ford WSS-M2C946-A. A 0W-30 viscosity can also be used. Your engine oil capacity is approximately 6 quarts. We offer these motor oils to help protect your vehicle."
Either Mobil 1 Extended Performance or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum will serve you well in your turbocharged engine. Add a Fram Ultra filter, and you'll be all set for New England's climate and your city driving. But use 5w30 viscosity as specified by Ford for the 3.5-liter Ecoboost engine. I visited the Mobil 1 website, and they also recommend 5w30:

"Based on what you've told us, your vehicle manufacturer recommends a 5W-30 viscosity and oil that meets Ford WSS-M2C946-A. A 0W-30 viscosity can also be used. Your engine oil capacity is approximately 6 quarts. We offer these motor oils to help protect your vehicle."
Thanks. I will go with the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W30 in this case.
 






Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator. They are not just rebadged, they are made to Motorcraft required spec.
 






nothing to do with old dirty oil
You were there. You saw the oil. You smelled the oil. You felt the oil. Contrary to what you think the oil was no longer a lubricant because it's viscosity changed to where it could not get between the bearing and crank. But that had nothing to do with it.
What you are saying is that if the engine had brand new oil in it the bearing wound have spun anyway.
 






Plenty of photos of Motorcraft oil filters cut open and inspected on Bob Is The Oil Guy. Filters look like Purolater's, no better no worse. Also at least two documented cases / photos of Motorcraft paper filter media being torn. Purolater filters had a reputation for tears on rare occasions. Not common, but documented. I am sure the Motorcraft filters are a good filter. They do not filter as well as filters with synthetic media.
 






Here is a photo of a cut open Fran Ultra oil filter. Two things to note with this filter that Fram states is good for 15,000 miles. The filter media has two layers, never saw two layers in a paper media filter. Also visible is a metal screen to add further support to the media. I see no reason not to change the filter when changing oil even if it can go 15,000 miles. The cost of the Fram Ultra or WIX XP which is also synthetic are very reasonable on Rock Auto, Wix XP $6.50 and Fram Ultra for $7.35. If you are using Synthetic oil, roughly $30 for 6 quarts why not spend another $3 to get the best filter currently available.

DSCN2036_zpsn7863wep.jpg
 



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