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Oil Change

Discussion in 'Under the Hood' started by Sporty, September 26, 2002.

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    1. Sporty

      Sporty New Member

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      Ok, don't laugh at me for this...

      I'm not mechanically inclined when it comes to cars but I'd like to start doing my own oil changes on my truck.

      Can anyone give me some tips/instructions to help me out.

      I have a 01 Sport
      please include how much oil and what type of filter and oil I should use...
      basically tell me everything I need to know ;)

      thanks in advance

      and remember..NO laughing :nono:
       
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    3. JoshC

      JoshC Only rolled it once honey

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      I don't think anyone is going to laugh at you! Even though some of us are mechanically inclined, we still screw stuff up!!

      I'm not sure which motor you have, the SOHC or the OHV. I don't know if they have different oil capacities, but my OHV take 4.5 quarts. The weight you buy is really up to you, i use Mobile One 10w-30, it is syntheic. Oil filter is also up to you, i just use the regular Motorcraft filter.

      Here are the steps i go through when i change my oil:

      1-warm up the engine for about a minute or 2 if it isn't already, but you don't want it warmed all the way to operating tempurature cause the oil is way to hot.

      2-get your oil drip pan out and slide it under the truck.

      3-find the socket size you are going to need for the drain plug, don't know that off the top of my head, and also get a long extension for your 3/8 ratchet or what ever size you are going to need.

      4-postion your drip pan under the drain plug, start to loosen the plug. When i get if broken free, i normally take the ratchet off and then just twist on the extension by hand so i don't make a mess when it starts to drip out. Be careful cause the oil can be really really hot and when you first take the plug out, it shoots the oil out pretty good.

      5-after the oil has finished most of it's dripping, about 5 minutes later, i put the plug back in.

      6-move your drip pan over to right under the oil filter.

      7-the filter will probably be pretty tight, might take 2 hands to get it free, loosen it slowly until the oil starts to drip out and then just leave it on there until it is about to stop dripping, you'll know it when you see it.

      8-the filter only has a few threads on it so be careful when you take it off cause it will drop right off and it is going to be full of oil

      9-make sure the o-ring gasket is on the old filter when you remove it and not stuck to the motor

      10-get out the new filter, put a thin coat of new oil on the new gasket on the filter

      11-put that baby on, not really tight at all, just snug it up with your hand, it will get tighter when you drive it.

      12-put your oil in, look for leaks, put your cap back on the motor

      13-start her up, make sure you have oil pressure by looking at your guage, let he run for about 2 mintues or so to get the oil circulated.

      14-shut her off, clean up all your tools and your mess on the garage or driveway floor from the oil that shot all over the place in step number 4

      15-check your dip stick to make sure you oil level is correct

      That is what i do when i change mine, hope you like! Be sure and keep a roll of paper towels under there with you cause you will need them!!

      Happy trails!!
       
    4. Sporty

      Sporty New Member

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      sweet, thanks bro!!!!
       
    5. zensius

      zensius Elite Explorer

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      If the fluid that comes out is not black it's red. Then you've got the wrong drain plug!:p Be sure you've got the right one. A friend of mine (I swear it's not me) drained all the fluid from his tranny on his brand new Escort, thinking it was the oil pan. Then filled the crankcase with the required amount of oil. When the car died soon after that he had it towed to a Ford dealership who couldn't figure out why the tranny was dry but the engine had twice as much oil as required!
       
    6. aldive

      aldive Elite In Memoriam

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      A trick to keep the filter removal neat is to ( after loosening with a filter wrench ) slip a gallon size zip lock bag over it and then unscrew; you won't spill a drop of oil.

      Also consider adding a Fran quixk oil drain while you are at it. ( cost about $10 ). Makes future draining a snap. See the thread at http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=47353&highlight=sure+drain

      I would definately reciommend using synthetic oil ( I use Amsoil 0w30 ). You can contact AgExplorer and he will sell/ship you Amsoil ( http://intershop.amsoil.com/cgi-bin/Amsoil.storefront/3d93466003813ebc271cd1f0e3f006e9/Catalog ) goods at a great price. Use a quality oil filter such as Amsoil or Mobil 1 .

      Good luck.....
       
      Last edited: September 26, 2002
    7. DeagleDave

      DeagleDave Active Member

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      since your truck is so new...make the investment in sythetic and use the amsoil and the filter amsoil makes for your truck. but if you're gonna stick with regular oil any filter is just as good as another IMO.
       
    8. Rscotts1

      Rscotts1 Elite Explorer

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      ....one other thing, fill up the new oil filter before installing it.:D
       
    9. Opera House

      Opera House Well-Known Member

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      Get a funnel!

      I still try to fill it by hand cause I generally can't find one when I need it. No need to have the headers smoking. I've taken apart a lot of oil filters and don't tink you can do much better than a Motorcraft filter. For $2.77 at Walmart, why use anything else. And the best micron filter is changing the oil more often. Any time I've extended the oil drains beyond 4K, the oil seems to get dirtier faster. Although the oil is still good, it looses the additives. After a change, leave the oil in a container for a week. Then slowly pour it into another container and look at the sediment. Thats what happens in all the hidden places in the engine. Anyway, It's just good to look in on the engine at oil change time to spot any potential problem. Why else would you crawl under a car!
       
    10. aldive

      aldive Elite In Memoriam

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      Extended oil change intervals are safe as shown by numerous oil analysis. I am at 10k on a 15-20k goal. The results were posted in a thread titled "OilP. I use Amsoil 0w30.
       
    11. MONMIX

      MONMIX I fix dents Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Do your self a favor , run down to the Wall-Mart and get some laytex exam gloves. It is just a few bucks for a zillion of them and it makes clean up a breeze.

      Oh , I will also join the army and endorce the go synthetic advice.
       
    12. fordkrazy

      fordkrazy Active Member

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      yea definatly use mobil1 synthitec....the drain plug is 13mm on mine....i would assume it would be the same but i thougt that w/ my '94 too and its bigger.....would changing just the filter like every 1k be worth it?....oh and for you high milage guys....i use mobil drive clean blend and i love it!!!
       
    13. Adam Foote

      Adam Foote Active Member

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      btw rscott... you only do that on a diesel....
       
    14. rydinhigh

      rydinhigh Guest

      hey joshc you forgot a step so ill help you out...

      16. go inside wash hands and grab a nice cold beer. :D
       
    15. JoshC

      JoshC Only rolled it once honey

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      haha, that's good, or you could just grap a good cold sweet tea if you don't drink!

      Happy trails!!
       
    16. aldive

      aldive Elite In Memoriam

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      That would be overkill. I change mine at 5k on extended oil intervals and the analysis is good.
       
    17. Rscotts1

      Rscotts1 Elite Explorer

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      Adam Foote, where did learn that you only pre-fill the filter's on a diesel? I was taught in high school auto shop as well as New York Tech (auto mechanics) that you should always pre-fill the oil filter to prevent dry start-ups. Maybe I am wrong.:eek:
       
    18. Fred Garvin

      Fred Garvin Active Member

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      Why start the engine before changing oil?
      Don't you want to keep the sediments IN THE PAN?

      I would recommend changing oil when the engine is cold.

      Also, fill the NEW filter with NEW oil, as much as possible.
       
    19. aldive

      aldive Elite In Memoriam

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      Warm oil drains much easier and is the recommended procedure.
       
    20. DeagleDave

      DeagleDave Active Member

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      guys this isn't rocket science....change it whenever you want if you can handle the heat. we are not driving precision race cars with blueprinted engines. it's not that big a deal...and as far as filling the filter up with oil before you install...either way is ok. But a dry start up will not occur because some oil always remains behind, not like you're wiping down the inside of the engine. and even so filling the filter with oil wouldn't prevent a dry startup.
       
    21. Opera House

      Opera House Well-Known Member

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      It's not just to get it warm

      Just starting the car after it has been sitting over night is not as effective as if the car had been driven around. If there is micro sediment you want to stirr it up and the warm oil will create a flow that will sweep it out. Interesting how the oil is just fine to drive with one day and the next day it is changed, it is the plague. If what little is left in there is so bad, then it should have been changed much sooner. Sounds like we all got too much time on our hands.
       
    22. Crankcase

      Crankcase Moderator Emeritus Moderator Emeritus

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      Naother thing to consider would be a quick drain type oil plug replacement. It saves a lot of work......
       
    23. aldive

      aldive Elite In Memoriam

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      I sure like mine.....
       
    24. JoshC

      JoshC Only rolled it once honey

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      Wow, who stepped on your toes. No one was even debating about a time to change their oil. I may not have a blueprinted engine but i sure would like to keep mine running as good as it can for as long as it can.
       
    25. Rscotts1

      Rscotts1 Elite Explorer

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      My same thoughts Josh.:thumbsup:
       
    26. DeagleDave

      DeagleDave Active Member

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      i meant change it whenever as in engine being hot or cold, hence if you can handle the heat
       

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