How to: - Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen | Page 14 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

How to: Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Overhead temp too high

My overhead works, but not correctly. Would anyone have experienced inaccurate temperature readout, as in 7-10 degrees hot? Would the 510 resistor issue possibly cause this?

Hi stekuk;

I've noticed now and then after going through a car wash the temp readout was 20 to 30 degrees too low as I drove away. I'm sure what was happening was the temp sensor behind the grill got wet and cooled down from evaporation as it dried off while driving.

As a computer tech and a long time electronics enthusiast my thought is your temp sensor is bad and giving high readings.

I doubt the 510 resistor would be the cause. When those resistors go bad or break loose the display just quits working.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





My overhead works, but not correctly. Would anyone have experienced inaccurate temperature readout, as in 7-10 degrees hot? Would the 510 resistor issue possibly cause this?

I had an inaccurate display and the sensor turned out to be the cause. I believe it is on the left side radiator support attached with a pin clip. There are two sensors, one for the climate control and one for the console. The console one is short and smooth, about 1/2" in diameter (zoom into diagram below). It should still be available from Ford, but since it is probably >10 years from production it is probably going to be obsolete soon.

Check out the ford catalog (Use internet explorer, you have a great zoomable /printable parts viewer with that browser). Put in your vin or info and search for Ice Warning System. It is part 15A022, and has a version for the Limited vs other trims. If you zoom the diagram(view image) you will see the location.

The other sensor is the same as a regular air temperature sensor, part 12A648. Do not mix them up! Study the diagram.

Also, if you do stop and go street driving in the summer it is normal to read higher, because it picks up engine heat(even though there is logic to limit rising temperatures based on idling). My readings were like 20-30 degrees off when it failed.
 






Do anyone know where I can get the "510" resistors mentioned in this thread. I realize it is several years after this thread was started but I just started having trouble. Got console out but resistors are gone.
 






msmithiron said:
Do anyone know where I can get the "510" resistors mentioned in this thread. I realize it is several years after this thread was started but I just started having trouble. Got console out but resistors are gone.

Gone? Never heard that.... Sorry I can't be if much help on where to find them. You're certain your looking in the right place?
 






Here in a small town off the West coast of Canada I've had good luck with our local Radio Shack (now The Source). If they didn't have stock they'd order things in.

When I repaired my overhead, at first I couldn't find one of the resistors. Eventually found it on the floor under the table I was working at. I see no way the resistors could fall out of the consolde while it's installed but they may have fallen out in the truck when it was removed, or on the way to your bench. They pretty much have to be around there somewhere.

They're really small though, about half the size of the fingernail on the little finger so they're hard to spot.
 






Just want to say thanks for this step by step instruction. I was having the same problem where it suddenly stopped working I checked the fuze which was good,talked to a friend that was a service writer for a repair shop he told me to replace the sensor by the front bumper and it still didnt work. After doing a quick solder job it's back up and running and the wife is happy again..

Thanks

Joe
 






Thank you so much for this! I've been pulling that thing down and jiggling the wires for so long when it was just that little solder all this time.
 






Thallarsen, et al thread contributors:

Thank you for your excellent step-by-step instructions, our 2004 Sport Trac overhead console compass and temperature readout display works again; it took us longer to warm the 25W soldering iron than to make the solder repair.

From the initial inspection, the PC board from our 2004 Sport Trac appeared fine at the 510 resistor mounts and we noticed a corner smudge on the display screen. A gentle pry on the resistors determined the left 510 lower resistor solder joint had separated from the PC board.

Smudge on the LED display screen had no affect the outcome.
 






Map lights dim

Great post, I did mine, works fine now but after the procedure my map lights are dim and not bright as before, any comments will be appreciated.

thanks in advance for any help
 












You're right, I decide to check and it was, so put it back in the correct position and everything fine.

thanks so much!
 






Yeah, just don't ask how I know or how many times I learned that lesson.
 






All I can say is ... WOW ... my display was not working and did not expect this to work but ... WOW ... you are a sheer genius. I did everything you said and it works perfectly. Thanks man! Saved me an easy $50, can't be mad at that! :)
 






Dan at www.siliconmethod.com repaired our Explorer compass; he did a great job. I took a look at the work and it is professional, plus all new parts on the board. Highly recommended.

I didn't want to send it out, but it kept going out on us and didn't want to deal with it anymore. :/

Thanks for the reference to this company! While the step-by-step seemed very easy to follow, when I took a look at Siliconmethod's price and explanation for how they fix it better than new, I was sold. By the time I would have gone out and bought a soldering iron I'd never use again and the pain of trying to fix it without frying it with no guarantee it would last, I will be mailing my board out Monday. One of my 510s fell off and I LUCKILY found it laying on the passenger seat and the other one is hanging on by one end. The one laying on the seat must have fallen out when I dropped the console from the ceiling and layed it on the seat. What a fluke that was! This company replaces both and the price is very good so really didn't matter if I'd found it or not. Thanks again.
 






Thanks for the reference to this company! While the step-by-step seemed very easy to follow, when I took a look at Siliconmethod's price and explanation for how they fix it better than new, I was sold. By the time I would have gone out and bought a soldering iron I'd never use again and the pain of trying to fix it without frying it with no guarantee it would last, I will be mailing my board out Monday. One of my 510s fell off and I LUCKILY found it laying on the passenger seat and the other one is hanging on by one end. The one laying on the seat must have fallen out when I dropped the console from the ceiling and layed it on the seat. What a fluke that was! This company replaces both and the price is very good so really didn't matter if I'd found it or not. Thanks again.

Does this place use the 510 resistors or do they use the better ones?
 






Does this place use the 510 resistors or do they use the better ones?

Click on the link to their webpage and take a look at the pics and their procedures. They use what looks like the 510s but the way they install them is WAY better.
 






I replaced the crappy 510's with better carbon resistors which are lifted from board slightly
 












I will have to try this out soon I think, well done on a niggly little prob :thumbsup:
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I just thought it was too risky to fry the board and then be REALLY screwed. That place I sent it to replaced both 510s, resoldered all power resistors and installed heat sinks. Turned it around in 1 day.
 






Back
Top