larrydd999
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- December 14, 2010
- Messages
- 442
- Reaction score
- 16
- City, State
- Port Angeles, WA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 92 XLT, 94 Limited
The Gen2 area has numerous posts on repairing the display, but I didn't see any on the Gen1, so would like to relate my experience in repairing the display. By the way, I am an electrical/electronic technician by trade and training.
I purchased a 94 Limited that had an intermittent display, sometimes coming on after a variable amount of time, often not coming on at all. It seemed to work better on warmer days, but not consistently. I checked and repaired the surface mount resistors mentioned in the Gen2 posts by Thallarsen and others but with no improvement. I then replaced the three electrolytic capacitors in the power supply area. These are the 'can shaped' components close to the black metal heat sink that surrounds the black epoxy component having 5 terminals coming from it. The capacitor values on my board were: 100/35V, 220/16V, and 100/6.3V. To keep the post short I won't detail removal of the console except to say it requires removing two screws at the rear, pulling the front down, and un-plugging the cable connector inside. Be careful removing the housings and such, 20 year old plastic is not forgiving. After replacing the capacitors the display works fine. I replaced all three because electrolytic capacitors 'dry out' and fail over time and I didn't want to have to do this again in a year or so.
I purchased a 94 Limited that had an intermittent display, sometimes coming on after a variable amount of time, often not coming on at all. It seemed to work better on warmer days, but not consistently. I checked and repaired the surface mount resistors mentioned in the Gen2 posts by Thallarsen and others but with no improvement. I then replaced the three electrolytic capacitors in the power supply area. These are the 'can shaped' components close to the black metal heat sink that surrounds the black epoxy component having 5 terminals coming from it. The capacitor values on my board were: 100/35V, 220/16V, and 100/6.3V. To keep the post short I won't detail removal of the console except to say it requires removing two screws at the rear, pulling the front down, and un-plugging the cable connector inside. Be careful removing the housings and such, 20 year old plastic is not forgiving. After replacing the capacitors the display works fine. I replaced all three because electrolytic capacitors 'dry out' and fail over time and I didn't want to have to do this again in a year or so.
