P0172, P0174, P0300, P0301-3, P0316 after summer vacation

[codysmith105]

Bought a 2005 Ford Explorer with 117000 six months ago. Passed CO emissions test, drove well, etc.

Moved to CA last semester for graduate school, didn't transfer title over (used the student card for a while).

This summer I spent in Florida, car sat for 2-3 months. Had my landlord run it once, no issues.

Came back a few days ago to a 100% dead car. A jump later and the car is alive, really didn't want to turn over, wouldn't hold an idle, CEL blinking, etc..

After running it for 30 minutes it could hold it's own idle and the battery was able to start the engine. Should mention that the exhaust wasn't colored but it was rather gas-smelly to me.

Still having the sometimes solid, sometimes blinking CEL.

Took it to Autozone, they read two codes. Once about a misfire and one about low coolant level, guy told me my coolant looked fine (like it was at level) and that the issue was probably just the computer needing to something or other, come back if it persists after having driven it 80 miles.

So I went to get my CA emissions check, didn't go well. That guy read several codes.

P0172 - System Too Rich Bank 1
P0174 - System Too Lean Bank 2
P0300 - Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire
and
P0316 - Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 rev)

Given that the car ran fine with no CEL two months ago, and ran fine when the landlord ran it (before the battery died) about a month ago (no CEL) and that whatever has gone wrong is obviously only affecting half the cylinders, I'm wondering what the common denominator might be?

Maybe a stuck O2 sensor that specifically works on the passenger side bank or something? Any help would be appreciated.

I've read two similar threads:
Rich Bank 1 + Cylinders 1, 2, 3 misfires at startup
https://www.explorerforum.com/forum...301-p0302-p0303-p0172-and-p0174-codes.308822/

Both seem like timing belt / idler issues. I really hope this isn't the issue but I need an honest opinion. That's probably not something I can do on my own.

 

[codysmith105]

Bump?

 

[Littleant]

One member here had the same issue. Believe it was the timing chain jumped time.

 

[codysmith105]

Bank 1 would be the passenger side right? Is that the dreaded rear timing chain? Can it be adjusted without pulling the engine?

 

[Littleant]

To do the rear chain either the engine or trans would have to come out. Front chains can be done with engine in.

 

[codysmith105]

Would a jumped time chain throw any other codes, make noise, or anything like that?

 

[Littleant]

Normally they do. They will rattle when first started. As the condition worsens they will make noise when warm and when accelerating. There are two spring/hydraulic tensioners on the front left and right that keep tension on the chain. The rear chain uses a leaf spring. These are the same code that another member had. I will try and find the link.

 

[Littleant]

Just wanted to add. The 02 sensor could be bad. Also a cat converter could be plugged. Do not rush into the timing chain. You can test the 02 sensor with a multi meter. You can lookup the values on google.

 

[codysmith105]

I saw, thanks!

 

[Littleant]

Check out this site. Part 1 -Troubleshooting P0171 and P0174 (Ford 4.0L V6)

 

[codysmith105]

I took it to a proper mechanic after Firestone tried to charge me $720 for replacing the plugs and running engine cleaner through it.

110 PSI on bank one (should be 160-ish), turns out the timing chain guide broke, let the chain bang into the valve cover, cracked the valve cover.

So tensioner broke, led to misfires because of the timing chain slop and that slop broke the valve cover leading to low compression on bank 1.

ANYONE with an 05' Explorer having compression and misfire issues on bank 1, do yourself a favor, go to a real mechanic, not one of these ****ty tire shops, get a leak down check preformed and ask them specifically to check the timing chain.

Oh and the fix costs at least $4,500 so wheel your Explorer to the nearest dealer while you can. And don't buy a Ford with this type of engine ever again.

 

[Littleant]

Cody i may be off but $4,500 seems a little steep. are we also talking bent valves ??

 

[codysmith105]

No just the chains. I'm seriously considering doing this job myself. Help would be a godsend.

 

[Littleant]

Then $4,500.00 is high. $2,500.00 is the norm with takin out the engine.Tell me which guides went. Front/rear Or all of them. Does make a difference in time.

 

[codysmith105]

Rear guide. Of course I'd be looking to replace all of them if I pull the engine.

 

[Littleant]

Ok. Cody i did auto repair for 25 years starting in 1970 retired now. I am going to ask you a question but please Do not take offense or take it personal. Have you worked on cars before? Do you like a challenge. Will you stick with it until you get it fixed, then go for it. But if you get upset when working on anything and take a hammer to the work then Do not do it. Having a friend helping is a good thing. There are plenty of videos on YouTube just google 2005 Ford Explorer 4.0 timing chain replace. The one tool you will need is the camshaft holder. There are no timing marks (moron engineers) You can rent them i believe. Engine hoist. You can replace the fronts with the engine in but the rear needs the engine out of the transmission out. Again plenty of info online. Good luck.

 

[codysmith105]

Thanks for the warning.

I'm a computer guy, working on a Masters in Electrical and Computer Engineering at Carnegie Mellon's Silicon Valley campus. I have an interview at Google on Tuesday (wish me luck). As a kid I would take everything apart. IQ 129, fast learner, etc. I used to work on cars with dad all the time, and my grandpa (unfortunately deceased) is the type who could fix anything, ripping apart engines was basically his job for many years.

I think I'm knowledgeable and yet not knowledgeable enough to be dangerous on this one. Hopefully dad will be able to help. Even if that means flying him from FL to CA :/

I was going to buy the cam tool:
OTC 6488 Ford 4.0L SOHC V6 Cam Tools | eBay
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6488-Ford-SOHC-Service/dp/B000F5ED12

Cloyes Engine Timing Chain Kit 9-0398SB:
Cloyes engine timing chain kit 9-0398sb | AutoPartsKart.com

An engine hoist on CL for $150

And I was just starting to populate a list of other tools. I think I need a tool to get the fan off. I saw some larger Torx bolts, I need to see if my crappy Harbor Freight socket set has those. I do have a torque wrench, but I almost certain need to pickup a decent breaker bar. Rags, tarp, rope, gloves, a few sealable containers for the fluids, etc.

EDIT: I have a set of stands, but I'm going to need something to hold the tranny and probably a safety factor as well. I'd like to avoid buying a fancy jack I only use once.

I'm aware this is a hell of a job for a novice.

 

[Littleant]

Wish you luck on the job interview. Cannot tell you how many times I wanted to take a hammer to my computer You can find a cheap floor jack and a couple of blocks of wood to hold up the trans. There are a couple of great videos that will show you everything you will need. Cody sounds like you got tenasity. Try not to set a time frame. If it takes a week so be it. I believe you can do it. Any questions just ask.

 

[codysmith105]

Awesome, thanks so much! I'm in a situation where driving the truck is a bad idea, so I'm going to do everything on food / public transit and go ahead and start the teardown. I'll start with provisioning tools / parts and go from there. I might make a video or write something up after I'm done.

 

[Coolhand20th]

Only thing I would suggest is buying that tool from amazon. Buying it from someone who has no ratings on Ebay has been a bad thing lately. Lots of bogus accounts showing up with product they don't have and all with zero ratings/new accounts. You might want to ask around here as well. Some people have sold their cam tools for a lot cheaper then what they are new. Good Luck with this repair.