P0430 code data and diagnosis | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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P0430 code data and diagnosis

Joined
February 5, 2018
Messages
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City, State
Mississippi
Year, Model & Trim Level
2012 FWD Explorer Limited
I started getting the dreaded P0430 code about three weeks ago. I have cleared the code a couple times, and it is usually several days before it comes back. Most recently, it went off on its own and has been off a couple days. Nevertheless, I need to figure what the problem is.

I have FORScan lite, and it’s pretty impressive what it can do for just a few bucks. I just don’t really know what to do with the information. I have attached a graph of the sensor readings at idle, and I was wondering if anyone could help interpret for me.


I also took IR temp readings on each side of the cats:

Front (bank 2?) - inlet: 180 deg, outlet: 210 deg
Rear - inlet: 180 deg, outlet: 250 deg

016F951B-088D-4175-A1DA-54C4CF3AD96B.png


B8C3F0C7-5D05-4A89-BDB7-8EB0D8A05BAA.png
 



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Any update to this?

Peter
 






Hi all - 2014 Explorer Limited, 3.5L. 125k miles. I recently got a P0430 code; there are no other codes. I don't believe the issue is my cat as there's no indication of performance problems or bogging at higher RPM's and I checked temps going into the cat & out & the output side is about 100*F higher. I used a stethoscope & all three injectors are clicking the same so not likely dead (although I am still thinking a leaking injector is the most likely culprit - more on that in a moment).

Before doing the work to pull the injectors & pay to have them tested, I want to make sure it's not a bad O2 sensor. I don't have specs to test so I'm thinking if I swap my O2 sensors from bank 2 to bank 1 & vice versa, the code should move from bank 2 to bank 1 if it's a sensor (after clearing & then driving for a bit). Does that make sense to those of you with experience diagnosing this issue? Or, does anyone have specs for the pre & post cat sensors so I could test them directly?

Thanks in advance.
 






Welcome to the Forum 302MGB.:wave:
Your thread was merged with this one found using the 'Search' feature in the upper right. There are several additional threads as well.

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum 302MGB.:wave:
Your thread was merged with this one found using the 'Search' feature in the upper right. There are several additional threads as well.

Peter

Thanks Peter. I did scan those before making my post; I didn't see anything about swapping O2 sensors but maybe missed it as there were quite a few threads on the P0430 code.

Semi-related, is there a setting somewhere that will enable alerts via email or text when a thread is replied to or moved? I didn't realize this had been moved until just now when I was searching for my thread. I was going to post that the downstream O2 sensors, while they are the same part for replacement purposes have different length wires from the factory. The bank 2 sensor's wires are too short to use on bank 1 so it turns out they cannot be swapped.
 






You can set up email alerts in your profile. Click on your username at the top right of the page and select "Preferences".

Peter
 












Time is running out, so I have to fix the P0420 and P0430. Tested the downstream/post cat oxygen sensors with a multimeter and they tested good. Put a vacuum gauge at the intake manifold and showed a stable/constant 20 mmHg vacuum at idle. Did the ODBII Mode$06 test with forscan, and complains about oxygen storage capacity. Attached a picture.
Understand the cat converter replacement is the fair way, but bank 1 cat scares me...

@Peter - which of the recommended options would work to solve the oxygen storage capacity of the cat converter?

mode6_ford_snapshotNov2022.jpg
 






Sorry, but I don't really know. I don't work on my own vehicles, the dealer does that and any info I've gathered is from this forum.

Peter
 






Have you inspected the inside of the catalytic converter? Take the sensor out? Its either a bad sensor or bad cat converter. Time to bust out the tools..
 






yes, I took the O2 sensor out. Those are good. The cat converters seem to be the the first in line for blame.

Quick question: I see people mention rockauto a lot; can i trust them for the cat converters from the aftermarket category? They seem to sell the aftermarket ones for a quarter of dealer price and half the price Autozone/Oreilly offer for their Dormans
 






Having both P0430 and P0420 codes. I verified the oxygen sensors, air leaks etc. All turned Ok. The mode 6 in forscan was flagging oxygen storage capacity was out of specs on both cat converters. So I changed both cat converters. That fixed the problem and I could pass the emissions and renewed the car registration.

Lessons learned:
*) Radiator side cat is fairly direct, without anything special. What I would highlight a 1/4 small torque wrench, to fit easier in the tight places
**) Rear /firewall cat is more complicated with AWD - like my car. FWD would be easy as there is no PTU to make life more complicated. Each manifold to head bolt will require its own set-up of long extensions + swivel to reach. What will be a challenge is to drop the cat out.
There are many opinions on AWD models to drop the rear cat. I saw one person that removed the Hub from the PTU (towards the driveshaft) to remove the cat. Others claim the ford manual says to remove the passenger CV axle. I found one youtuber that pulled the engine slightly forward with a ratchet rope - enough to get extra clearance to get the cat out in between cv axle and the frame. The driveshaft did not need to be disconnected, the bolt holding the bottom transmission mount to the frame need to removed, so the engine can be pushed forward.
1/4 torque wrench is preferable. I had a 3/8 torque wrench and was big enough to struggle finding a good position to torque the nuts. I did not want to transfer torque from the wrench via universal joint, so I was looking for a straight line, at the expense of having "one click" play. Painful.

========================================================
As a note. Wanted to avoid initially the OE dealer units. On the front/radiator side, I tried initially an Amazon purchased Walker cat. The welding s were so off, that the Y-pipe did not fit at all. The bolting was impossible. Returned it to Amazon, and got a Dorman unit from Autozone next day (as it was Sunday). The Dorman fit slightly better, but the fitting position put the Y-pipe in such a crazy twist, that i decided to return it as well and go with the dealer cat. Dealer part fit perfect.

On the rear cat, I gave a Dorman from Amazon a try, knowing i can return it easy if it does not fit again; so I took the risk, given half price. This one fit quite OK. So I kept it. Mode 6 readings show the Dorman (rear) oxygen storage capacity is way worse than the dealer OE front cat. Transition from lean to rich and rich-> lean are way worse in the Dorman. True, within specs, but still. But it helped me pass emissions..... I do not know for how long it is going to survive
 






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