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Parts Cleaner in engine????

Discussion in 'Under the Hood' started by x5050160, July 19, 2013.

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  1. x5050160

    x5050160 Member

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    So my 1994 Explorer is full full full of carbon and sludge. I know this because I got it from family and they did a lot of, tons tons of city driving and very rarely put the hammer down.
    So I have "seafoamed" it with Berrymans B12 ChemTool 2 times and ran it in the tank 3 times. Also sprayed 2 cans of carb cleaner into the throttle body. Still pretty nasty in throttle body and the intake though.
    I'm thinking that a good engine flush is needed. So I have done the B12 ChemTool in the oil for 10 minutes before the oil change. Never really thought that it did to much of a good to get the inside of the engine clean. I am wanting to take this to the extreme.
    I want to fill the engine up with Berrymans ChemDip[​IMG] and the old oil. And I mean all the way up, like pour it to the top of the engine oil fill cap. Fill the intake up all the way too.
    The only problem (well 2) that I see is this; First is i want to crank the engine while the ChemDip is in there should I be worried about hydro lock on the compression stroke? I think that ill have to pull the plugs and then crank it. Second is what about the engine seals and gaskets? I wouldn't think that too much pressure would bouid with the oil cap and the PCV valve out of it????
    Anyone done this before? Or anything like it? I was also wondering if just using gasoline would do the same thing. Or maybe kerosene? ChemDip is $18.00 a gallon. Any advice is much appreciated!
     
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  3. AP9

    AP9 Active Member

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    Not familiar with the stuff, but I would be concerned that attempting to crank the engine with the crankcase overfilled that much could very well cause the stuff to be forced up into the vacuum system (via PCV valve) and intake. Filling up the intake with it is bound to cause hydrolock. Probably would be a lot of stress on the starter motor too.

    I wouldn't add anything (besides oil) to the crankcase in any amount without first changing the oil filter. You'll want all the filtering capacity you can get once stuff gets knocked loose, and you don't want the flush to knock old stuff out of the filter back into the engine.

    Slow and steady does it.
     
  4. x5050160

    x5050160 Member

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    Oh I would fill the intake up also when doing it.i'm hoping it will clean the heads up good.
     
  5. Roadrunner777

    Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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    I really don't see this ending well. You have done everything you can with chemistry. Do you have symptoms you don't like?
     
  6. snoranger

    snoranger Well-Known Member

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    Filling the crankcase and intake with any fluid and cranking it is a recipe for disaster.
     
  7. Turdle

    Turdle Moderator Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    And whatever you do, be sure to have a friend with a good video camera there. He should not be helping either--just run the camera. :thumbsup::D
     
  8. snoranger

    snoranger Well-Known Member

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    You could try flushing it this way:

    http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-general-discussion/368307-im-done-with-this-car.html


     
  9. kert0307

    kert0307 Well-Known Member

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    If it runs fine, what does it matter if you "think" there is gunk/sludge in there? The only place sludge usually accumulates is on the top of the head, so you could always take of a valve cover pretty easily and see how it looks and clean it while you're there.

    Putting ANY liquid in the intake and expecting the motor to run is just stupid...


    edit: I have heard of ol'timers putting kerosine with the oil to try and clean things up, how much it helps or hurts things, I have no clue. But if it's running fine I wouldn't mess with it any more than you already have.
     
  10. swshawaii

    swshawaii Elite Explorer

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  11. FIND

    FIND Well-Known Member

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    Add a quart or so of diesel fuel and idle your engine for a couple minutes. Then drain. Don't put any of that other stuff in it. Don't use gasoline, it will cause your oil to sludge. Kerosene will work too, it is basically the same as diesel in most respects. Jet fuel will work too... but that might be a little more inconvenient.

    You shouldn't need to do this kind of thing though... just do a couple oil changes on shorter than normal intervals and you will accomplish the same thing.


    Don't fill your engine super full of stuff either. You will end up with some of it flooding into your combustion chambers and causing VERY bad things to happen when you start your engine, like hydrolocking your engine. You will also end up with stuff pooling, and not draining. Slightly diluting your oil like I suggested won't be a problem, but what you are talking about will be bad.

    As for cleaning things...

    Take off your intake and get yourself some cleaner and a scrub brush. Clean that bitch up and put it back on.
     
  12. Joe Dirt

    Joe Dirt Explorer Addict

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    I think the Motor Flush in the silver can is nothing more than kerosene anyhow... at least that's how I remember it smelling back in the 90's... :D

    This stuff:

    [​IMG]
     
  13. FIND

    FIND Well-Known Member

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    Yup, it is usually just kerosene or diesel.
     
  14. x5050160

    x5050160 Member

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    I have done 3 oil changes each 50 miles apart. Oil is black as can be after each one.
    Let me clarify.... I'm NOT going to try to start it. I'm going to pull the plugs and crank it over for a few seconds with the starter. Also I will pull the vacuum lines off the intake and leave the oil cap off and pull the PCV valve out too. There's not going to be any compression or load on the engine.
    It doesn't run fine, please read my post. This thing is so full of sludge/carbon from horrible driving practices. Not to mention POS Walmart oil changes. I am mostly concerned with the carbon. There was at least a 1/2" of it built up on the backside the throttle plate when I cleaned it. Its has lost alot of compression because of carbon build up on the valves I'm sure. It only has 110,000 miles on it no way it should run like it does.
     
  15. Bobmbx

    Bobmbx Active Member

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    This works. The method for using kerosene is (do this on a cold engine) to drain your oil, then put in 5-6 quarts of kerosene. Start the engine, let it run for a minute or two making sure your oil pressure light/gage indicates pressure. The idea is to pump kerosene wherever the oil goes. Shut off the engine, let it sit for a while (over night works). Then start the engine again, this time revving it up hard a few times, then shut it off. Let the kerosene drain to the pan, then drain the pan (pull it and clean it if you want to go whole hog).

    Then fill the crankcase with 5-6 quarts of cheapy oil, put in a new oil filter and drive for a day or two. Drain, install new filter and your choice of oil. Any remaining kerosene will eventually boil off.

    Done.

    The kerosene will dissolve not only the gook, but also the burnished glaze on your bearings and races. If you took the engine apart, it would look brand new inside.

    DO NOT DRIVE AROUND WITH KEROSENE IN THE ENGINE! It removes all lubricants from the bearing surfaces, and you'll be mad.
     
  16. x5050160

    x5050160 Member

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    dont know if I would want to start the engine with kerosene in it. It can't have any type of lubrication value. Maybe crank it over a few times.
     
  17. Bobmbx

    Bobmbx Active Member

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    What do/did your plugs look like? Whatever they look like, thats what your cylinders and valves look like.

    There is no reason to fill your engine with anything. You will not accomplish anything. If the buildup is that bad, you will need to disassemble the intake system and clean it by hand. And I mean pull the intake manifold off.
     
  18. AP9

    AP9 Active Member

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    Agreed. The worst deposits require a good amount of actual physical removal. Remember, it took the sludge and deposits many years to form.
     
  19. x5050160

    x5050160 Member

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    Plugs have a few deposits on them.

    Filling the engine with parts cleaner will clean the engine. Have you ever used an automatic parts washer? What I'm talking about is the same principal really. The pressure created when the oil pump turns from the starter cranking the engine will force the parts cleaner everywhere. Here is a YouTube Video of a auto parts washer.


    And here is a video of how well Chem Dip works at cleaning carbon off of parts. Listen carefully to what he tried to clean with and how long he soaked the piston before he used the Parts Cleaner Chem Dip
     
  20. tooltime

    tooltime Member

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    :popcorn:Sign me up for a copy of the video too! This oughta be good.
    If you plan on overfilling your motor past the full level, then prepare to purchase connecting rods and a host of other internals. Ponder this thought during your "cleaning" process. While all this magical internal cleaning is going on, think about the lack of lubrication in all the critical areas; cylinder walls, cam bearings, rod bearings cam ect. ect ect. However this will save time cleaning the parts when you are disassembling the broken motor.
    Like mentioned above, if this thing runs good, DO NOT DISTURB THE SLEAPING GIANT! Keep clean oil in it, keep an eye on the plugs ect. It sounds like you have done plenty as it is. PM me and I will send my postal address where to ship the video. Wear goggles and maybe even a face shield! :bsnicker:
     
  21. Bobmbx

    Bobmbx Active Member

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    No, it won't. You've spoken about carbon build up in the throttle body. How will your oil pump squirt this chemical in there, in the intake manifold, or on the valves?

    You're looking for an affirmation of your "too good to be true" magic engine cleaner.

    Knock yourself out, its your engine.
     

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