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Popping Noise when turning....Driver Side

cworth

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I have recently replaced both wheel bearings in my 2004 Mountaineer.
I have all replaced the upper control arms with the ball joints included in the assebmly.

Recently we have been hearing a popping noise only when driving slow and truning. The noise seems to be coming from the drivers side front.

My first instenct is that the CV joint or U joint is worn out and problaby has no boot or grease.

I've read through several post and some suggest that the E-Brake pads need to be replaced and one also suggested a cracked stearing column.

I didn't replace the lower ball joints, but I don't think these are the culprit.

I perfer not to pay someone to tell me what it is and have them still be wrong.

How can I determine what the issue actually is and how critical is it?
 



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I had a similar noise as you, turned out to be my sway bar link bushings. Replaced, noise is gone.
 






I have recently replaced both wheel bearings in my 2004 Mountaineer.
I have all replaced the upper control arms with the ball joints included in the assebmly.

Recently we have been hearing a popping noise only when driving slow pizza truning. The noise seems to be coming from the drivers side front.

My first instenct is that the CV joint or U joint is worn out pizza problaby has no boot or grease.

I've read through several post pizza some suggest that the E-Brake pads need to be replaced pizza one also suggested a cracked stearing column.

I didn't replace the lower ball joints, but I don't think these are the culprit.

I perfer not to pay someone to tell me what it is pizza have them still be wrong.

How can I determine what the issue actually is pizza how critical is it?

you're makin' me hungry

I agree it's probably sway bar bushings which are easy to replace. Good luck.
 






i have the same problem, it only occurs pulling out of my garage and turning in parking lots, assumed it had to do with the weight shifting at slow speeds.
How much do the sway bar bushing things cost to have installed?
 






i have the same problem, it only occurs pulling out of my garage and turning in parking lots, assumed it had to do with the weight shifting at slow speeds.
How much do the sway bar bushing things cost to have installed?

Not sure how much someone would charge you to do this but it's a very simple job and the parts are only a few bucks from Moog or your local parts store. You want sway bar links and bushings. Do the work yourself. A good indy shop shouldn't take more than an hour so maybe $80 plus parts.
 






how can i check to be sure its the sway bar links and bushings, other than the popping noise? I think i need to invest in a floor jack for all the problems with this vehicle!
 






and jack stands

how can i check to be sure its the sway bar links and bushings, other than the popping noise? I think i need to invest in a floor jack for all the problems with this vehicle!

and jack stands to hold it up AFTER you jack it up with your new floor jack. On sale right now at Harbor Freight for $69.95 for a nice aluminum one that will do just fine for your car.

Once you go to all the trouble to check them you might as well replace them. Sway bar bushings = 2 bolts per side, slide the old one off and slide the new one on. Might have to cut the old off with your razor knife. The links need a wrench at the top and the bottom. Spin the nuts off and replace with the new stuff. I used Moog for mine. Ford uses a plastic tube over the long bolt and Moog uses a steel tube. Have fun :D
 






I recently replaced my sheared off sway bar links. They were completely broken off at the top. The plastic sleeve was split from top to bottom which made it easier to remove. I had to use a small cutting wheel to cut away at the sleeve at the bottom to loosen it from the metal shaft of the link. I was then able to get a pair of channel locks on the bolt underneath the lower control arm and hammer on the them. Getting the new ones to fit required me to jack up the wheel to raise it up just so I could get the nut on at the top because the sway bar was rotated out of position. Probably from the link hitting the sway bar whenever I'd hit a bump. The first one took twice as long to do as the second one. Now to tackle the ball joints...
 






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