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Power Window Bushing Replacement with Pics

Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by 85Dave, October 25, 2005.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^



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  1. Czar Zach

    Czar Zach New Member

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    City, State:
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    Just finished doing the driver side passenger door. This tutorial made it literally a breeze. Unfortunately for myself the plugs had been completely obliterated, filling every hole in the gear, and gear box, so It took a little longer to clean everything out and put it the motor back together with those loving little springs that need to be behind the two little copper squares, ( i figured out that you should hold those with your fingers, then slide the plastic circle down the shaft to keep those in place, so you can slide the shaft back in[for future reference]).
    I finished the back door then had to do the driver door, which was making mo noise at all when i pressed the button, only to find out it was merely the plug for the motor was loose.

    All in all, smooth as cool velvet.
    i got my plugs off Amazon, if anyone can't find them locally. Their prime eligible as well if you got a membership.
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CO96SG/ref=mp_s_a_2?qid=1322090227&sr=8-2
     
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  3. Walkaway0911

    Walkaway0911 New Member

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    AWESOME WRITE UP!!! I have this problem on 3 windows right now; just bought a fixer upper!!!
     
  4. Walkaway0911

    Walkaway0911 New Member

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    found problem
     
    Last edited: December 9, 2011
  5. Mark53

    Mark53 New Member

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    MAGNIFICENT write-up, people. Thanks.

    A slight problem with my 92 Explorer, Front window;
    Removed the motor, but I don't like the idea of "bending" that cover that's still held on by the rivet. Should that rivet be drilled out? And maybe for re-installation, replaced by a nut/bolt?

    Thanks very much.
     
  6. Mark53

    Mark53 New Member

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    And now, I'm working on the REAR window (with the cables).
    Finished the bushings replacement, just fine.
    Window goes down and up, without pausing... Great.

    However, going down, now... it Shudders / Vibrates.
    I don't think it did that before...
    (I've only owned this for a year, and the window rarely worked well).

    Why is this new Shaking thing?

    Thanks very much. I LOVE this Forum.

    Mark53
     
  7. Mark53

    Mark53 New Member

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    Solved the problem of the REAR window Vibrating. Found a thread here that mentions Greasing the channels. Did that (the channel INSIDE the door, where the white plastic things slide.) Solved. Cool.

    Still got the problem of disassembling the FRONT window motor. BENDING that cover open just doesn't sound like a good thing to do.

    Ideas / opinions?

    Thanks.
     
  8. toyfj40

    toyfj40 New Member

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    thanks for the confirmation of cleaning/lubing the channels.
    I just bought a can of CRC-spray-lithium grease today for use this weekend.

    "Bending that cover..." ?? if you are referring to the image at the start
    of this sticky-thread...
    ie. http://explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2097261&postcount=9

    Mine has dis-assembled as described... the cover may be tight,
    try prying it gently at various points around the casting...
    there is a gasket under it that may be "sticking"...

    I got my Dorman#74410 set-of-three GearPlugs at my OReillyAuto.com store for $8
    They were "tight" going in, so I got them aligned and just barely squeezed
    into place... and held a wood-block on the gear and smacked it with a mallet
    and they pop'd into place, then a few taps to get them "set".

    removal: used a T20(?) Star-bit to remove the screw pictured above,
    (carefully) removed the "C"-clip, to remove the metal-gear,
    Then there is a small Oring to remove before the big-plastic-gear will come off.
    I had compressed-air to blow-out all the little chips...
    and they never stopped coming out... from down in the gear-shaft cavity...

    and Thanks for this thread...
     
  9. Mark53

    Mark53 New Member

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    Yes, Toyfj40, I was referring to that black plate.
    In another thread, it seems to be shown "bent" out of the way...
    http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1874511#post1874511

    Silly me... further investigation reveals that it's not a rivet at all.
    It's a Torx screw. Removal was easy.
    All 3 windows that needed the bushings are now Done. Cool.

    Thanks Very Much for this thread, AND this Forum, people.
    VERY Helpful stuff, here.

    Mark53
     
  10. Xeek

    Xeek Elite Explorer

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    im finally ready to fix mine. been broken for over a year. this is the front drivers door. where is the damn dimple??? im blind, no really i wear glasses lol. but i really just dont see the thing.

    the two circled are the ones ive found so far. i see the LARGE dimple to the left with a hole in it. but i didnt see any screws or bolts in there.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Mark53

    Mark53 New Member

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  12. Xeek

    Xeek Elite Explorer

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    yea. i found it right after i posted that. i was expecting it to be bigger.
    mine was so much worse then the pics on the first page. i had at least 1000 pieces all the size of crumbs all covered in grease. so it was nasty to clean.

    got it all fixed. im just mad at myself for not doing this a year ago


    edit: do i win for smallest pieces?
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Forder

    Forder Active Member

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    Just fixed my Drivers window after if being half-broke for several months (had to keep helping it along). It took me a few mins to find that dimple too. I kept thinking it was that large dimple to the left but since there wasn't any screws behind it, I was confused. I eventually found it though. I'll post a pic here just in case anyone else needs help finding it (even though Mark53 linked to it, figured more pics couldn't hurt.

    Here's the tiny dimple:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And here's what was left of my bushings, heh:

    [​IMG]

    I'm amazed it was able to move the window at all like that. It catch for half a revolution it seemed, then lose grip and required help.

    Also, I wasn't able to unscrew the cover to the gears since the lid had no recess whatsoever for any type of screwdriver. So I had to just lift up on the cover just enough to clear the gear and rotate it out of the way. You can see this here:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I don't think it hurt it any. It stayed in place when I put it back and when you screw it back onto the door, it effectively screws the cover back on tight too so it keeps a tight seal still.

    I also greased up the tracks on the window with white lithium grease and that sped up the motor a considerable amount. My passenger side almost wouldn't go down on its own, so I greased it up too and it goes down without a problem now :D

    Thanks guys!
     
  14. RobertFord

    RobertFord Active Member

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    While you're in there, make sure to grease the two rails (top, bottom) where the scissor lifting/lowering the window slides along when contracting/expanding.

    My X didn't even need new bushings, just have those two rails greased and it works as new.
     
  15. R&T Babich

    R&T Babich Active Member

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    I've made several sets from a 5ft length of 5/8" Ultra-Strength Kevlar-Filled Nylon rods from McMaster Carr - http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-nylon-rods/=i8o0s2 .
    The 5/8" rod needs to be shaped a little to fit, a spindle or disc sander works great.
    I wouldn't use metal parts as it looks like they work as shock absorbers and the nylon gear casing might break instead of the bushings being compressed.
     
  16. rodb

    rodb Active Member

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    For those still going to do this job I found a good source for the gear pins:
    http://www.natauto.com/wlk-52-torque-pins.html, they are $1.57 per set of three. Call them to have shipped USPS. This is my first post and want to thank everyone for contributing, very helpful.
     
  17. Czar Zach

    Czar Zach New Member

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    Replacing my back door bushings in the motor. I have done this already in the past With my two driver side doors so the process is a breeze. I put my fixed motor back on and now my buttons are backwards. Up is Down and down is up. What did I do here?
     
  18. mange1234

    mange1234 Active Member

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    Thank you. I understand how you feel about paying back. I feel the same.

    Anyway, I want to thank you for this as I have three windows to repair on my 1993 Explorer. And, am going to start soon.




    Safety Tip: Be very careful when disconnecting he spring. Last year, I was at the Pick and pull and pull the assembly apart and almost lost a finger. The spring unwound and flung a metal part into my finger. Allmost cutting my index finger off. Except for luck.That has been almost six months ago, and I am still having probs with my finger. So, please all, becareful when disconnecting the spring.


    Mike
     
  19. smegun

    smegun Active Member

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    great write up working on my 1994 yep dimples there dimples dimples ......



    regarding the rear doors of my 94 it looks like the door locks or cables run through the regulator unit although the dimple is there I got the buger loose but the door lock bar and cable assem is attached is there an easy way to disengage the cables ?
     
  20. Cheddar Dan

    Cheddar Dan New Member

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    Since replacing the bushings I've noticed that I have to be careful to stop pressing the power window button once the window is fully up or down or the motor stays engaged and "thumps". When the original bushings were working correctly, the window motor seemed to recognize its limit it stopped and there was no thumping; any ideas on this? I've done 3 out of 4 windows; maybe one twice over the years and it's time to do number 4 and I would like to get this one perfect!

    BIG Thanks for a wonderful write-up!

    -cd
     
  21. mange1234

    mange1234 Active Member

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    Thanks,

    I have one window in my 1993 Ford Explorer that works. I gets hot in the car in summer time. AC not working. lol

    But, I need to at least repair window on passenger side.

    Thanks,

    Mike
     

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