Power window problems fixed ( with pictures)

[rhartmaier]

Sunroof, windows, dome light

And your question/comment is??????????????????????

 

[Yankee516]

Hi folks! Read just about every thread but still cant find the source. Problem is the drivers window will not go up any more using the master switch, only down. Replaced the motor and regulator, they were factory originals anyway and was dragging. Every other window and lock works perfectly from the master.

After replacing the regulator/motor, the window will still only go down and not up with the new regulator. When I disconnect the motor from the regulator it spins up and down okay. When I switch the polarity at the motor harness and reverse the function of the switch it still wont go "up" installed. With the motor removed, I can move the window up and down manually so it doesn't appear kinked anywhere as I have a full range of motion. I also swapped the power window/express relay to isolate that too.

When I hit the up button, I can hear a small electrical buzz from the motor but nothing moves. Testing for voltage at the motor reads 12-14V when holding the up button. The motor will pull the regulator down, which is why I thought that switching polarity might work as a test since it does go down. It just will not work hooked up to even the new regulator. I took apart the mater switch and cleaned all the contacts too as a precaution. Still no dice.

My instinct tells me it could be a grounding issue or a problem under load, bit I just don't know what else to test at this point.

Appreciate any insights!

 

[BBQgreg]

After lots of testing switches, pulling fuses, etc, etc... I found this site and this thread. I've found a lot of great information on this site. All 4 windows stopped working on mine... Repaired broken wires... Problem fixed. Apparently this is a common problem on ford explorers and trucks around early to mid 2000's. Maybe cars too? It causes problems with windows, door locks, mirrors, and anything else controlled on the drivers door. If you're have issues, and it's got a switch on the driver door, check the wires in the door jam boot.

Mine had a broken ground. I also found several other damaged wires that would have caused problems later. The black electric tape from the factory stopped at the door boot. I think if they had taped it the rest of the way, they would not have been bending over and over in that same spot (eventually causing the breakage).

It might not be necessary, but I pulled the door panel off and unplugged everything so I could pull the harness out where I could get at it a lot easier. I did not have to add any jumper wire this way. Isolate bad wires... I went through all of them and put a piece of tape around the good ones, then went to work on the damaged wires. I wrapped the harness really good with black electric tape at the door jam to prevent them from bending there again. Another thing I noticed was the harness was taped to the boot at each end from the factory. I suppose this would stop the wires from rubbing in and out on the boot. So instead of rubbing, they bend and break. I did not re-tape them to the boot. I put enough electric tape around them. They won't rub through or bend now.

Here's a few pictures of the damaged wires.

 

[donalds]

Self test in forscan with a $20 elm327

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[Rdc#1958]

I have had this problem before, had ford fix it (before I knew of this site) and now have the same problem. My drivers window control switch won't work, the lights for the same switches won't work, the speaker goes in and out and the driver side mirror can only control left and down motion (won't go up or right). I opened the boot and found ford fixed it with crimp connectors which corroded and there was another with 3 crimps for 1 wire with about 2 foot extra wire tucked away. I'm just learning to solder so I solder in slack wire for the blue/black wire (corroded crimp), I also took out the 2 foot extra wire for the blue/white wire and solder that. I put back together and noticed a cut in the orange/green wire (or is it pink/green?). I didn't have time for that and half way put together (bolted harness on with boot lose. Ford must of cut the boot and zip it back but I didn't have zips) but everything worked fine, until the next afternoon. The windows wouldn't work again. I went back in and didn't notice anything else wrong (unless it's my solder joints).
My questions are what (or where I can find) the identity of the blue/black wire, blue/white wire and orange/green wire? I seen a blue/black in 1of 3 harness for the drivers door control switches, is this the wire for window control? If so either my solder is bad or I don't know, there was little play in connection to harness. I was able to wiggle the boot and was able to roll window up to just vent it.
View attachment 292358
View attachment 292359
The pics above show the 2 wires before I tried to fix/solder. The next 1 is after putting together, I noticed another wire (I thought the heat shrink tube meant flame shrink. I know better now but could that be my problem, I used a lighter to flame shrink the tube, could I of melted my solder joint and break the connection?)
View attachment 292360
Thanks for any help or direction

Re: your power mirror problem,my 2000 Mounty had the same issue until I pulled the switch out and took it apart,I sprayed it inside with electrical cleaner but also there are some spring steel contact points that quit making connection,I bent those back up a little bit and put it back together,works like new now.

 

[J_C]

Just had to RE-do this repair to my '98. Years ago the main blue w/black stripe wire had frayed apart, fixed that, but then when it happened this time, the fray was so far up into the boot that I could not get at the remainder of the wire.

Pulled the boot off the body and could get at it, but then had a heck of a time trying to fish the new wire down through the boot, largely because clearance was so tight, because I was trying my best not to have to slit the boot open (and let the elements get in, in winter) , nor to take the door off for better access. Trying to push the wire through, it kept hitting the corrogated walls of the tubing and bending upon itself and never went the distance.

The idea I had, which worked great, was similar to how some electricians set up wire runs in conduit. I inserted a rigid tube through the boot, in this case it was the tube from a disposible bic pen, which was even the perfect length already, and fished the replacement wire through that. I mean that I pulled the pen tube out after fishing the wire.

I think I got lucky on this re-repair. If I have to do it a third time, I may just say screw the boot and drill a hole in the door and near the body boot mount and string a new wire without touching the boot, putting some grommets and sensor safe caulking around the wire to seal it and some heatshrink tubing over the run in the hinge area, with a loop in it for extra flexibility.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good job, those are critical wires there, all of them. That is very hard to fix wires in there, in that bending area.


I have four 2nd gen's, two have had the blue/black and another wire break. My Mountaineer and my 99 have been great so far. I plan to inspect those wires before I settle on how best to fix them, since I have the choice to swap harnesses if I have to or choose to. I installed a different body harness in my 99, the OEM had been cut prior(junkyard). I could do the same again, only the Limited differences I would have to duplicate.