Project Vehicle - 1998 Explorer Limited

[masospaghetti]

I just mentioned the accumulator as I didn't see a mention of it.

If there was too much oil, does this mean the entire system needs evacuated? Just curious.

I wasn't replying specifically to your comment, I just meant in general (since there seemed to be some confusion about what was included in the compressor kit).

A typical evacuation won't remove oil from the system. Probably the easiest way to remove some oil would be to replace the accumulator (since usually at least a few ounces of oil will settle in the accumulator).

 

[BrooklynBay]

I've seen some shops try to add freon without using a vacuum pump first. The vacuum pump is necessary. Make sure that they don't take shortcuts, and do everything correctly. Have them leak test the system after they refill it with freon, and ask them what the pressure readings are on the low & high side.

 

[GLOCKer]

Good news AND bad news. The shop called me this morning to tell me they bypassed the heater core and that when they did that, the AC was blowing a consistent 36 degrees.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Maybe there's a heater control valve issue?

 

[CDW6212R]

Good news AND bad news. The shop called me this morning to tell me they bypassed the heater core and that when they did that, the AC was blowing a consistent 36 degrees.

Yes, hopefully it's the HVC, either not working or the valve not shutting off the flow properly. You can see it operate easily by changing the controls from hot to cold, it should be either open or closed. But some coolant flows through it even when closed, but shouldn't be enough to affect temps inside.

Hopefully it's that, but as most of us know, the blend door is more often a problem. If the blend door diverts air to the heater core, then the air gets cooled and heated. But with the HC bypassed, the air still is going through the HC, and the blend door is a long term problem.

Check it out, I hope it's the easy to solve HCV.

 

[masospaghetti]

I've seen some shops try to add freon without using a vacuum pump first. The vacuum pump is necessary. Make sure that they don't take shortcuts, and do everything correctly. Have them leak test the system after they refill it with freon, and ask them what the pressure readings are on the low & high side.

Yikes, I can't believe any shop would try and do that. Not only would you have a ton of moisture trapped in there, but there would be no vacuum to "pull" the charge in.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I watched one mechanic do this. He opened the high side port then added freon to the low side port until freon started to shoot out from the high side port.

 

[GLOCKer]

Yes, hopefully it's the HVC, either not working or the valve not shutting off the flow properly. You can see it operate easily by changing the controls from hot to cold, it should be either open or closed. But some coolant flows through it even when closed, but shouldn't be enough to affect temps inside.

Hopefully it's that, but as most of us know, the blend door is more often a problem. If the blend door diverts air to the heater core, then the air gets cooled and heated. But with the HC bypassed, the air still is going through the HC, and the blend door is a long term problem.

Check it out, I hope it's the easy to solve HCV.

I'm REALLY hoping it's not the blend door too! This look like a PITA to fix with the Doorman kit. I visually inspected the HCV when I was trying to troubleshoot this issue myself, and it appeared to be working correctly. (I was observing the position with the heater off and then observing the position with the heater on, and it was changing positions.)

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm REALLY hoping it's not the blend door too! This look like a PITA to fix with the Doorman kit. I visually inspected the HCV when I was trying to troubleshoot this issue myself, and it appeared to be working correctly. (I was observing the position with the heater off and then observing the position with the heater on, and it was changing positions.)

My 98 Mercury(spare truck) blows very warm when its problem is present, with the AC on. I originally hoped it was the HCV and replaced it because of age and low cost. I first tied the solenoid/lever to it fully shut, not knowing how well the HCV is designed. Some older types used to barely **** the internal valve, and a little variance in manufacturing could allow water flow when "shut." These we have seem to all work well, if the lever doesn't move than it's failed.

My Mercury I haven't driven in almost two years(hard engine miss), but the AC was fine some of the time. The blend door seems to be broken as typical, but it basically only moved with the actuator(100% of the time directed to heat, maybe 5% of the time selecting cold). So turning on the DEFROST is a bad idea in Spring and Fall, that commands heat immediately in the morning. When the issue was there, I would often turn on the defrost when it was cool enough to command heat, pause, and then turn on the AC, smacking the lower dash around the glove box. That would sometimes help the blend door move as the actuator did.

The actuator is very reliable, even at 20 years old it's trustworthy. That will work perfectly, or it will be failed. So my actuator works always, but the blend door rarely moves to the cold side when commanded to. When the blend door would be blocking air from the heater core, the AC was properly cold all the time. I have a spare dash to swap the AC and blend door etc, but that's for later when I get close to finished with my 98 Limited.

 

[GLOCKer]

I figure I need to gather my thoughts and organize what I have to work on, on my Explorer.

• diagnose and hopefully repair broken blend door
• replace driver master window switch (rebuilt replacement is on the work bench)
• troubleshoot rear hatch window wiper
• 1-2 shift accumulator in transmission, trans and torque converter drain, replace fluid
• exhaust manifolds (probably wont happen)

 

[CDW6212R]

I figure I need to gather my thoughts and organize what I have to work on, on my Explorer.

• diagnose and hopefully repair broken blend door
• replace driver master window switch (rebuilt replacement is on the work bench)
• troubleshoot rear hatch window wiper
• 1-2 shift accumulator in transmission, trans and torque converter drain, replace fluid
• exhaust manifolds (probably wont happen)

My list has the 1/2 shift solenoid at the top now. My trans when fully warm has been sometimes not downshifting to 1st, and taking off in 2nd gear. I'd like to do a full service I didn't have time for two years ago, replace all solenoids and accumulators/springs, a few Sonnax parts, and begin a J'Mod with the VB plate. The solenoids are all tired at this age, just as the accumulators are, and people report those two springs breaking sometimes. If you pull the VB, you might as well do the whole group.

 

[GLOCKer]

My list has the 1/2 shift solenoid at the top now. My trans when fully warm has been sometimes not downshifting to 1st, and taking off in 2nd gear. I'd like to do a full service I didn't have time for two years ago, replace all solenoids and accumulators/springs, a few Sonnax parts, and begin a J'Mod with the VB plate. The solenoids are all tired at this age, just as the accumulators are, and people report those two springs breaking sometimes. If you pull the VB, you might as well do the whole group.

That's probably a good idea. The trans shifts really nice except for the 1-2 upshift. If I accelerate a bit lightly, it's barely perceptible. But I'm a cop and I drive like a cop, and that means excessive use of the throttle! LOL That 1-2 upshift is a bit rough. I want that cleaned up for comfort, because it's annoying, and I also want the trans functioning perfect if I ever end up towing my dream boat to the lake.

 

[CDW6212R]

You might start by just doing the solenoids and accumulators, and collecting the Sonnax parts. Just R&Ring those parts is a moderate project. Separating the VB pieces and changing multiple components maybe you might want to do a 2nd time when it's more comfortable to dig into it. Removing the accumulator covers and pistons can be interesting alone. The VB is more intricate and needs prep time reading the instructions and studying the pictures thoroughly.

The solenoids and accumulators are fairly basic mechanics, the snap rings and pushing the pistons in to remove the snap rings, are the hardest part.

 

[GLOCKer]

Several hours after driving the Explorer I went out to poke around the hood, and I heard a funny noise...


On my phone, the fizzing noise comes through from the video loud as day, but on my computer I have to lean in really close to the speakers to hear it.

It sounded like a fizzing noise and didn't stop even after I took the cap off the brake fluid reservoir. But it did seem to stop soon after that.

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

Sounds like you may have a vacuum leak at the brake booster.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, the grommet is old and not as pliable as when new. If that's it, the leak is so small it won't affect running at all.

 

[fastpakr]

Do you have a recommended source for all the parts you'd use on your trans, @CDW6212R ? I just finished getting the 5.0 rolling in my Ranger and have noticed very similar behavior to what you and the GLOCKer described. I've got a spare valve body from my 2wd donor trans I can work on to prep the JMOD side of things before dropping the pan.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com.

 

[CDW6212R]

Do you have a recommended source for all the parts you'd use on your trans, @CDW6212R ? I just finished getting the 5.0 rolling in my Ranger and have noticed very similar behavior to what you and the GLOCKer described. I've got a spare valve body from my 2wd donor trans I can work on to prep the JMOD side of things before dropping the pan.

I haven't looked in a couple of years. I see some sources have gone up a bit, and Amazon didn't have much before, but they do now.

I liked this for the accumulator springs, I think these are what many people use with the Jmod steps; AODE 4R70W 4R70E 4R75W 4R75E 1-2 Accumulator springs jmod | eBay

I liked this for the solenoid kit for 98-03 4R's; https://www.amazon.com/4R70W-Transm...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00AAVW0GQ
That mentions Borg Warner EPC brand, many other sources don't list a brand. I saw that on eBay for $20 less and got that, same seller, shopping around is smart.

The accumulator parts are not high, but getting the group is helpful; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Y515Q6/ref=psdc_15724671_t3_B00AAVW0GQ
Those are maybe $2 less individually on transmissionpartsusa; AODE 4R70W transmission servo & accumulator pistons
But some things they want too much for.

Sonnax makes a bunch of really good VB parts for most transmissions. It's easier to browse their site and see what they have for the 4R70W, the VB stuff. Try not buy overlapping kits and parts, they do have at least three upgrade choice for the main pressure regulator, a spring, spring and valve, plus another kit I thought was more involved and better;Sonnax Hydraulic Line Pressure Booster Kits 4R70W-LB1. Here's the same kit on eBay with free shipping if you don't need $100+ from Summit; Ford AODE 4R70W 4R75E 4R75W Transmission Line Pressure Booster Kit 4R70W-LB1 | eBay

The Sonnax o-ring kit is good to do, and there may be a couple of other items, I've usually bought their bigger kits that have more little things in them(are for rebuilds that have some internal items beside for the VB).

 

[GLOCKer]

UGHHHH!!!! I murdered my back hauling my push-mower out to our lake cabin. I guess I didn't lift properly loading and unloading it.

I was very happy to have The Turd today to haul the mower, weed eater, ladder, and some tools to the lake. I was able to get done some major yard work out there thanks to The Turd!

When I got home I sat down at the computer, and when I stood up I realized I'm not as young as I used to be! My lower back is TRASHED!!!!

But even that didn't stop me from wanting to work on The Turd a little bit today.

I've been annoyed with a power window problem. All of the power windows only worked off the driver door. I chased the wiring loom through the door but didn't find any breaks. I ended up ordering a "re-manufactured" master window switch from Ebay about a month or two ago, and it's been sitting on the work bench in the garage. Until today. Luckily I have a small wheeled shop stool I was able to roll out to the Explorer and get to work.

Here is the stock master switch:

As you can tell; it's pretty damn nasty! Here it is compared to the Ebay unit I paid somewhere in the relm of $14 to $17 for:

When I took the old switch out I noticed the plastic bracket it mounts into was starting to crack, so I shored it up with some high-strength, quick drying glue.

And now the windows work from their respective doors!!!! I'm pretty damn happy about that!

Now I'm hoping that when I wake up tomorrow for work my back is feeling better and that it's good enough that I can work on the blend door repair on Friday!!!