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PSI from Water Tank...

Discussion in 'Exploring everything under the sun!!' started by Maniak, October 9, 2002.

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    1. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I need to know if anyone out there knows how to fure out how much water pressure you can get from a water tank full of water.

      I'm trying to come up with a way to know how much water we have in our water tank without using floats or sight lines (sight lines cause algee)..

      What I figured was to put a pressure guage on the output of the water tank....

      From all the formula's I have seen for every 1 foot of water you have in the tank you have .433 pounds of pressure....

      If this is the case and we have a 16 feet wide by 10 feed high water tank (cylinder) that we would have about 7PSI on the gauge when the tank is full, and about 3.4psi when the tank is 1/2 full etc...

      Can someone verify that my logic and information is correct or tell me the correct way to figure out how much water pressure we will have (and how to figure it out myself).. I need to do this to another water tank once we get it installed (both of these are for our wells).

      Thanks...

      ~Mark
       
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    3. Bshmastr

      Bshmastr Active Member

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      This is correct, no matter how wide or long the tank is. The pressure is only dependent on the height of the water in the tank above your pressure gauge. You would need to be sure to measure the pressure while no water is flowing out the output, cause it's a static pressure calculation.
       
    4. zekex2

      zekex2 Active Member

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      bshmastr is right that is good for static. calc ing the flow is harder and more involved so stick with that. What are u using the water for. drinking or irrigation? are you trying to gravity flow it or pumping it?

      I have 9 years of Water treatment exp. at a couple of different plants. currently I am a swimming pool contractor.
       
    5. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I'm trying to figure this out for our potable water tanks. When the wells aren't dry water goes into that tank, into pressure tanks which is them pumped to us and the neighbors (I think there are 14 properties with houses)...

      The problem now is that the wells are dry so we are trucking our own water in using [​IMG]

      Currently we climb a ladder and look down the tank to see how much water is left to know if we need to get water...

      What I was trying to do was figure a way to know how much water is still in the tank without climbing up the ladder. The float systems I've seen are very expensive and a site tube always gets algae (a few of my neighbors have tried that on their personal 2,500 gallon water tanks)..

      The tank we want to do this on is a metal 5000 gallon tank about 16ft tall. [​IMG]

      The problem I think I will run into is that I can't just drill into the tank and put in a gauge. I can flip a shutoff valve on the output of the tank so I can install a gauge in the output pipe. As long as the pumps (pressure pumps) aren't running the water won't be moving so static pressure should work.

      We are adding another Potable Water tank and will have the 2nd tank gravity feed into the first tank and would like to do the same setup. The new tank will be 8ft high and 32 feet long so If My numbers are correct it will give just under 4psi when full..

      Once we get a nice new deep well this won't be as much as an issue but as long as we are trucking in our own water (from 10 miles away) we have to keep a close eye on the water level.

      ~Mark
       
    6. zekex2

      zekex2 Active Member

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      mark,

      Put the guage in any where between the tank and the pressure tank pump. Make sure the guage is as low as the bottom of the tank. Use a 0-10psi guage if you can get one. You want the normal presuure reading to be in the middle of the guages range. that will give you the most accurate reading.

      when you add the second tank.

      1) put the top af the tank at the same level as the other first one so that when you fill it ( the tall one) it won't back flow into the shorter one and over flow it.

      OR
      2) Add a check valve (spring loaded ) between the two tanks to prevent the tank from over flowing due to 1).

      If you put them so that their tops are at the same level you will only have to put water in at one point to fill both tanks. this will work for you when you get a deep well in. The pump will fill both tanks at the same time.

      As for a floating system. You can make one for not a lot of money. I have done this. A heavy duty bleach bottle ( like rom a swimming poll supplier.). Put a weight in it , or just 1/2 fill it with water. attatch a 1/8 "dia. stainless steel cable to it. loop it out of the tank through tthe top access hatch. Mount pulleys or eye bolts at the edges that the cable will rub at ( the corners). weigt the end of the cable. and adjust the length so that when the tank is full the weight on the end of the cable is at the botton water level that you want to be able to see. When the tank empties the weight /marker will rise. When it gets to the top the tank is empty. Do your math and you can mark the side of the tank to correspond to the water levels inside. remember that the scale will be up side down. Marker up tank empty , down full.

      If you have Questions you can email me direct at brent@cal-tropic.com

      when the well goes in you can also save on your pump cntrols if you need to by putting in you own float control system. I used to teach this subject at state wide training seminars in the industry, so could help you design a system that would be easy to do and work well.

      brent
       
    7. FrankRizzo

      FrankRizzo Elite Explorer

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      Why can't you just stick the tanks?
      If you know the circumfrence, you can figure how "high" say 10 gallons (or 100) is, and mark a stick accordingly. Put the stick in the tank, check the reading and convert inches (not of wc) into gallons. Thats what we do with our 2500 gallon fuel tanks.

      or there is always the sight glass idea.....but people always seem to bust the glass tube.....
       
    8. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      A sight glass doesn't work becuase when you let light into the water it grows algae.. Remember this is untreated water, no clorine.

      We won't use the stick method becuase we don't want to introduce anything into the water that may be bad. Again, this is untreated Potable (drinking) water.


      I think we are going to use the gauge method so we don't have anything going into the tank.

      If we use the pulley method to make our own float the cable is still going to go outside the tank when the tank is full and get pulled in when the water goes down. If anything gets on the cable it will now go into the tank..

      We have birds and rodents around here.. don't want any of their stuff to get into the tanks.

      ~Mark
       
    9. zekex2

      zekex2 Active Member

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      10-4 on that . You could drill a small hole and run the cable through that. But the gauge is a good way to do this. The other is some thing you could probly see from home w/o having to check the tank.

      i don't envey you having tho haul water every day espicially with the limited amount that you can haul at one time. Water weighs 8.34 lbs/gal and the weight adds up fast. I guess that you don't take curves to fast either.

      for sanitation you could install an ozonater in the tank. this could be done fairly cheaply. I put them into spas all the time. they nuke the bacteria and other organics in the water, but don't really effect any thing else. ie ph, alkalinity... this works smililar to the uv light treatment that bottled water gets before it can be sold.

      any Q's just ask... It sounds like you have a good handle on this. i am just throwing out ideas that might be useful...or not. i have spent a large part of my life (20+yrs) in the water business and am always tying to refine every related process.
       

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