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Discussion in 'Elite Explorer Registry' started by gmanpaint, August 3, 2010.

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    1. Rick

      Rick Pumpkin Pilot Staff Member Admin Elite Explorer

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      :eek:

      Our rigs are showing their age.

      I lost a wheel on the Pumpkin two months ago... The lug nuts that held on the drivers side wheel spacer stripped right off the studs. Just pulled right out. Didn't feel anything weird until right before the wheel left at 45-50mph. So much suspension travel it just settled down easy on the rotor. No big bang.

      Tire and wheel barely missed a passing pickups windshield:eek: It took a bounce that put it at that height. Then it went over a barbed wire fence and down a hill. Such fun...
       
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    3. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I remember your post on that Rick. Scary stuff! 260k miles and still runs like a champ, but I have been throwing parts at it constantly. Still cheaper than a new car payment for a work rig. Can't complain too much. lol

      So far 2 members have responded to me, and looks like I might have one by the weekend if all goes well. :)
       
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    4. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Good to hear, the found parts and not getting hurt.

      I have my old 91 I have got to sell soon. I wish someone who could use it was close enough to get it. I haven't advertised though. Night,
       
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    5. FR-425

      FR-425 Used to be a road here. Elite Explorer

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    6. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thanks for the link! I bookmarked it, just in case these used spindles are worn, and can't be used.

      That is actually the best price I have seen on them, for new.
       
    7. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      What did Gman learn today?

      Learned that you can hammer out the preinstalled races, inside the front rotors, and use the spacer cups, from a 4wd ball joint press kit, to seat new ones back in with a mini sledge.

      Installed new set of bearings today, and polished the spindles, with emery cloth to get through the work week. A used spindle will be here this weekend, and I get to rip it all apart again. Yay!....... (sigh)
       
    8. FR-425

      FR-425 Used to be a road here. Elite Explorer

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      Or that! :chug:
       
    9. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      It's hard to get to the Mods on this thing, as the upkeep keeps getting in the way.

      The A/C was rebuilt 2 summers ago. Last summer it needed 1 can to charge it, this year, 2 cans. Sigh....

      This weekends project, is ripping out the worn out stock steering gear box, and installing new lines to it. It started to lane change on it's own a few days ago, and that is just not acceptable. lol

      (yes, everything else has been checked, and found in good condition)
       
    10. WormsExplorer

      WormsExplorer Elite Explorer

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      Well Maybe the EX didn't like the lane you were in. :)
       
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    11. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Well, it couldn't make up it's mind which lane it wanted to be in, so I gave it a time out for misbehaving.

      So I got the old box out, and the new one in easy enough. It is a bit of a challenge to get it lined up and a bolt started, while laying under the vehicle, and holding the awkard bitch with one hand. I slid a punch in one of the holes to the frame and box, to hold it in place, until I could get a bolt started. That was the easy part so far.

      Now I am stuck. Been fighting the new return line fitting to the box for 2 fricking hours, and my fingers are sore and bleeding. It just wont thread into the box. I had to take a break and walk away, before a wrench disappeared violently. Once that is in, all that is left, is to connect the steering shaft, drop it back to the ground, and torque the pitman arm nut, fill it with fluids, and bleed it.

      I might wait a day to let the fingers heal up some.

      Old box, new box, and new lines. old gearbox.jpg
      new gearbox.jpg
      new lines.jpg
       
    12. WormsExplorer

      WormsExplorer Elite Explorer

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      I agree put her in time out.

      Glad you where able to get home safe though. From the sounds of things I might not want to do this project any time soon at all.
       
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    13. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      I bet after a day away from the whole thing that line will screw right in with no issues.
      Its amazing how that works sometimes.

      or.....with it being a new pump, are you sure the thread size and pitch are the same? It could very well be that the two won't mate together for a reason. Anyway....Take that break. I know the feeling well.
       
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    14. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I never done this job before, so it was a learning experience for me. The chiltons do not give any good R&R instructions, and neither does the part manufacturer. I just went at it, and hoped for the best. Glad I did, as I can put another notch in my learning belt. :thumbsup:

      So.... the reason it wouldn't go in was the pre-bent line that conforms to the gearbox, was bent wrong from the git go, ( it might have been from shipping & handling too). Just bent wrong enough so that the line was hitting the box, and enough to stop me from getting the right angle to get it started. I put it in the vise, and bent it back a few degrees. Went right in after that. Hard to see everything going on with my head in the fender well, and glasses keep falling down my face, and the nasty up to my elbows. lol

      So it is all back together now. This took me the better part of the day to do, and I am wiped. Will go back at it tomorrow to bleed it, and to set the toe. It's way off. They did mention that with the new box, but I was like, how can it be off? I'm not touching the TRE's? Sure enough, it is off. That means I need to set an appointment for an alignment. Dang it. :banghead:

      Oh, and the bad news discovered while doing this.... The jeeper steering shaft Mod, is a no go. The outer shaft has wollered out,where the inner meets the outer, and there is a bunch of play now. I need to replace it with something else. :(

      heeper shaft.jpg



      Between the bad leaking box with worn out bearings, and the intermediate shaft with play, no wonder it was like sawing trees with the steering wheel down the road. :eek:

      Always something with these rigs!!!
       
      Last edited: May 13, 2018
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    15. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Glad you finished that project step. Steering is a no joke gotta be right thing, replace anything that gives you crap.

      I've never had to wrestle one of these Explorer rack yet, I see a couple needing work soon. I just found out how bad a front carrier can get worn out, my 98 had a spare in it that was rebuilt about 50k ago, and it's really bad(noises it made were scary). I guess I need to learn how to rebuild those D35's next.
       
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    16. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I agree 100% Don. It had some play in it in the past, but that was always from the hub nuts coming loose, and slop in the wheel bearing, allowing the camber to go back n forth down the road. I have been tightening them every other month it seems. Dang 35" tires on a D-35 / DD!! (That's a lotta D's man).

      Well, Even tho this steering box was a bit of a challenge for me to go in, the next time will be much faster & easier, as I know what to do now. I really hope there isn't a next time, but yeah, you know what I mean.

      The 2nd gen R&P rack is by far much much much harder, and painstaking to do the first time. That one is a crap ton of work to change out, and very frustrating. If your on jack stands, your bathing in fluids, dirt, & grease the whole time, your fighting to put a sq peg, in a round hole just right.

      Setting the gears Backlash, is still a job I won't do as an amateur / hobbyist wrench turner. I will and have, rebuilt and replaced the differential internals, but only to the point where I mess with the Pinion gears depth setting. For a trail only rig, and never ever sees pavement, I might have a go at it.

      Don, which rig are you using for work? If your using the AWD 5.0, I can see the front carrier getting worn out. Carriers vehicles are rode hard, even if your gentle on them. It's a daily grind, and takes a toll.
       
    17. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      I have done the backlash a few times, that's to me the easy thing to do. You're only swapping the bearing side spacers, and the kits ran about $30 for the thin shims. My Mercury I put the Torsen differential into, that one didn't need any adjusting, the stock spacers got me the .009 perfect backlash. I should have swapped the old LS back into that, since it's a spare truck now, and use the Torsen in something else. I sold the LS to a friend last year. The D35 I gather is enough smaller that it takes a special bearing separator, the Ford tech who did mine had to find one to borrow then.

      I've only got my 98 AWD to drive right now, I've put 40k on it in two years, most on my route. This new route I just took has a lot more full lock tight turning, that's going to eat the front carrier much faster than normal driving. My 99 is the SOHC 4.10 truck, I've wanted to get that D35 built with a Torsen I got last year. Other than the faster wear of the diff, I think the 4.10's will make a nice 302 work truck, 9.5:1 compression and 275hp when I get the 306 built.

      The diff building I've never done is the crush sleeve adjusting, pinion depth etc. I've seen a few tools on Summit that look like they are to help with that. I wonder if I can learn how to do it on a bench with the right hand tools and a couple hours of my time at home. I'd love to build a first open diff, for my Mercury that I just swiped the D35 from, and then the two good carriers with the Torsens, then another spare.
       
    18. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I had an 8.8 crush sleeve eliminator kit installed when the gears / locker was installed. It is just a spacer tube and shims. Once set, you can remove and tighten the Pinion nut as often as you like, without worrying about messing up the depth. E-bay for $10 or so. I had to rebuild a center section because a crush sleeve cracked in half on me. That little part cost me a bunch, as it caused total destruction of everything in the center section. I'm talking high dollar 4:56 gearing, locker, carrier, etc... I no likey the sleeves no more.

      Bleeding this steering out is going to be a pain, I can already tell. Going to try the old fashioned method first with the tires off the ground, and go lock to lock a bunch. If that fails, then I will try the mighty vac method. if that fails, I will flush and fill, and try again.
       
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    19. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Thanks, I'll take the cover off of this trashed D35 very soon. I wonder what did come apart, the bearings most likely I'm guessing, and it ruined everything else no doubt. I got a good deal to have it built by a tech in 2007 or so, and it was flawless until two weeks ago. A slight popping/catching made me think I better do the left axle(knew the dust boot was dry rotted and it was the first axle I ever bought(04 from Autozone)). That ended the symptoms for two days, then after the four CA's, bam it as much worse; got the alignment done by planned appointment that day, drove home and then changed the D35 by midnight. Now it's better, but it does have a little catching/popping still, this is the original D35 from my Mercury, about 150k on it. It might be close to going too, I delivered with it for about 18 months in 2006.
       
    20. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Sounds like the carrier bearings to me. I rebuilt this rear axle complete because carrier bearing fail, destroyed everything. Yours would be easier and cheaper, to just do another swap with another complete used d35 axle.
       
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    21. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Funny. I've already got two bad 3.73 carriers, the original from this 98 that was virtually dry, and this last one. I have a line on a low mileage take out 3.73 from a Ford tech I keep missing. That's the one I'd like to build with a Torsen, it likely has the best ring/pinion condition. It'd be a big job to remove one of these at a JYd, it wasn't fun to do it twice last Wednesday. I should get to doing this soon, I have a radiator leak I want to fix next week.
       
    22. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Well, if your going to add the torsen, I would completely rebuild it with new gears, and a master install kit, and be done with it. No sense to take a chance with used parts in that scenario. Just my O2 .
       
    23. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Yes, ideally all new parts. But Ford gears are high quality and can last decades if taken care of. I feel comfortable with used gears if they are unhurt, and most Ford ring and pinions you can tell if they have had a rough life etc.

      Where would you source the parts, a master rebuild kit etc? I think I've seen things on Amazon and eBay for the D35, but maybe Summit has some also.
       
    24. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Poly Performance, Richmond gear, 4wdhardware, my4by, jegs, Randy ring & pinion, east coast supply, are a few others you can check into for pricing.
      There are minor & master kits, but the master has the bearings, and more.

      If you decide to buy new gears...

      Just check and see if they are a 5 cut, as those are better. 3 cut are noisy and don't take the heat as well . Most of the cheaper brands are a 3 cut, and mostly made at the same factory.
       
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    25. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Excellent, you know the sources to go to. Would they be able to source the housing bushings also? I noticed some of mine are beginning to have a little wear. I bought a pair from Ford that were available, of the three two match and one is unique(and obsolete). I'd replace everything for sure besides the gears if they looked okay. So a master kit would be great. Would they have any tools at those sources, I'd also want to check on the tool costs to be able to do it all?
       
    26. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Are you referring to the bolt bushings that are used to mount the axle? I have no idea where to get those, other than a salvage yard.

      As far as the axle seals go, I got mine direct from a Dana spicer shop that was local to me, and I'm sure you can go to their website and buy some.

      For tools, I would source them from tooling shops that specialize in them. I think Grizzly has a good depth gauge for cheaper than most, in the higher end stuff. Over priced units are going to be the Snap on, Matco, etc.. brands, and your not going to be using them enough to make the high cost worthwhile.
       

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