Pugly

The Good, The Bad, & the Pugly

1994 Purple Explorer XLT 4wd

I decided to have a registry for my "Other" rig so I can post things done and have a reference for it.

Pretty much stock drive train.

4.0 OHV-A4ld-1354e.
D35 front 4:56 Yukon gears, Aussie Locker.
2nd gen disc 8.8 rear 4:56 gears, Spartan Locker.

Front C-Clip eliminator Mod.

Slight lift with 2" Skyjacker coils & rear F-150 hybrid leaf packs.

3" PA body lift
Helpful thread with pics for the front body mounts
Pics of front body lift mounts

Swapped to manual hubs.
Double U-joint XJ steering shaft.

33" x 12.5" x 15" Cooper Discoverer ATX3, mounted on 15"x10" AR Outlaw1 alum wheels - full size matching spare.

Shocks:
Front Rancho 9000xl
Rear Rancho 9000xl
Duff Stabilizer shock.

Sway bar quick disconnects front & rear.
Custom tube sliders w/kickouts

22" LED light bar.
18w amber fog Led pods.
55w rock lights--2 front--1 rear over diff.
8 LED pods for rocker lights.

Full brush guard.
2.5" Fender Flares.

TTB Diff guard & Skid plate.

Custom roof rack with 48" Extreme Hi-Lift jack.

Flipped Tow hitch & front hooks for tow points.

Cobra19 CB & rear hatch mounted firestick antenna.
Rear view HD camera.
JVC DVD/CD/MP3 Head unit with 7" HD Monitor.
Sony 6.5" front speakers.
Rockford Fosgate 5.25" component rear speakers.
8" JL Audio sub in 2001 enclosure with 500w amp mounted on enclosure.

Custom made center console with CB/Rear view color monitor/2-12v outlets/ in-out temp display. D cell Maglite mounted on cargo panel. Truck bed liner on cargo floor.
Custom Cargo storage box with topside spare tire mount.

'99 Eddie Bauer Front Leather buckets.
'94 Limited Rear leather split bench.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

The washer should only move when 4x4 is engaged

 

[gmanpaint]

The manual hub is spinning on something. I had to file it smooth on the inside as it was getting chewed up by something.

Storm came thru, knocked out the power. Im sitting here in a store lot writing thus, and some chick just slams her car door into mine. She jumps in her car and takes off without saying a word or anything. . Biotch!

 

[gmanpaint]

Ok, back home. Power is back on, but no webs yet.

Good call on the hub Phil. Some A hole locked it. I never thought to look at it as I didn't do it. SMFH. Im so aggravated I went thru all that, cut up a spindle, ruined 2 splined washers, canceled all my appointments today, all for that.

Now i'm wondering why it was squeaking so bad with the hub locked as everything on that side was turning. Front diff is still stock open, so whyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy???

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Now i'm wondering why it was squeaking so bad with the hub locked as everything on that side was turning. Front diff is still stock open, so whyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy???

Cause the washer was rubbing against the end of the spindle?? or bad U joint??

 

[gmanpaint]

I took the washer out, was still squeaking loudly and changed with rpms. I believe it was the back of the hub tube rubbing, as it had fresh rub marks.

I'm perplexed as the next person on that.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Still have the graphite washer on the stub shaft? The inner 'hole' has a beveled edge that should sit against the axle flange (that could also cause the 'short shaft' syndrome making the spline washer rub)

 

[gmanpaint]

I will have to take it apart again tomorrow and have a look. When I did all the repairs work, I replaced the axle seal with a new one pc replacement. I also replaced the seal on the spindle. I bought a new spindle seal today to compare them, but they are identical. I didn't swap em.

The ujoints we're also fine, but I have a set of the spicer 570x I can install as well, just in case.

Thanks for all the help Phil. I really appreciate it.

 

[gmanpaint]

Nice day out, so I installed the Limited Rear Leather split bench seats, & door panels. Pugly is now an XLT/Eddie Bauer/Limited 1st gen Hybrid.

 

[gmanpaint]

Temps have rose into the 90's and with high high humidity, the inside of the rig was hitting 150* easily. With the windows rolled down at high speeds, it was still over 100*. Stopped in traffic, and I get heat sick. I looked like a strawberry from heat rash a couple days ago, and hurled when I got out of the rig. I just can't do this anymore, and after two summers in a row of avoiding being in the rig in the afternoons, it had to be addressed. The main hose had a hole and evacuated the system. Time for new parts!!

So with the help of a good friend (Benji) and RockAuto, the A/C works once again.

We replaced the accumulator, and main hose. The orifice tube Rockauto sent was the wrong size, but the old one was fine. I cleaned a bit and reused it. With a new manifold, vacuum pump, and new coolant, we charged the system after dropping the mercury level to -30. Let it sit for a spell, and it held. Cool! At idle, the temp coming out of the vents is at 45*, and drops into the 30's when cruising. I can live with that. LOL!

So it looks like I need to change the 185* T-stat a few degrees, as temps climb very fast now with A/C running. The sever duty clutch helps, but the lower T-stat should help even more. I might venture out more now in the afternoons....... Maybe.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Not sure which direction you plan to go with the t-stat, but I found a lower temp t-stat can cause the engine to actually run hotter. If it stays open, the coolant can flow through the radiator too fast for the heat to transfer from the coolant to the radiator. That was the case with the built 460 in my Ranchero. It ran coolest with a 185* stat vs a 170something or 160*. On the other hand, I drove my '78 F100 with a 400 all one summer without a t-stat. It failed on the interstate one day in June, and I didn't replace it until I needed heat in Nov.

 

[gmanpaint]

It will just be a few degrees. 180 most likely. I have run summers without many times, and replaced when it gets cold.

 

[gmanpaint]

Developed a weird noise on Pugly. Crawled underneath and gave it an eyeball inspection. I found the TTB swivel bushing to be shot. Fan-fricking-tastic. Ugh. Now to find a write up on the best way to do this repair. (SOB!) Everything else was in proper order that I could see.

For my personal reference:
Pulled the front rotors, and also found the Dr side inner bearing grease wasn't doing it's job, so I replaced the race & a freshly packed bearing. Cleaned the spindle up with some steel wool, and hosed it down with brake cleaner. While I was at it, I cleaned and re-packed the other bearing, and on the Pass side. Checked the front diff fluids, and it was still as clean as it was when installed. Level was perfect.

 

[gmanpaint]

Anybody know where to buy the front axle splined washers? I have tried the parts stores with no luck. Not even sure how to look them up. Dealer part only?

 

[Turdle]

Maybe this?

http://www.quad4x4.com/qu20093.html

 

[Rick]

Tell them you need to test fit them and if they fit he has a new market. They should give you a set to do a writeup on

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Jon, no idea how you found that, but your Google Foo is strong today.

From their explanation, it is a discontinued part. No wonder why it has been so hard for me to find.

One washer set will run me $32 shipped. I would rather go to the salvage yard and grab some used ones for that price. Interesting product tho, with one side using a Teflon washer. They have to be pretty thin for 3 of them to equal one stock washer width.

Good idea Rick, but not worth the hassle for me. LOL

 

[Maniak]

Thanks Jon, no idea how you found that, but your Google Foo is strong today.

From their explanation, it is a discontinued part. No wonder why it has been so hard for me to find.

One washer set will run me $32 shipped. I would rather go to the salvage yard and grab some used ones for that price. Interesting product tho, with one side using a Teflon washer. They have to be pretty thin for 3 of them to equal one stock washer width.

Good idea Rick, but not worth the hassle for me. LOL

Junk yard is where I get them.. Each time I go there for something I check every 1st gen 4x4 for those. I finally have 5 or so spare ones. With all the front end travel I have now and the C-Clip eliminator I tend to bend those a lot sooner than I did when we were closer to stock.

~Mark

 

[gmanpaint]

Junk yard is where I get them.. Each time I go there for something I check every 1st gen 4x4 for those. I finally have 5 or so spare ones. With all the front end travel I have now and the C-Clip eliminator I tend to bend those a lot sooner than I did when we were closer to stock.

~Mark

Mark,
Funny you mention the C-Clip eliminator. I just installed a new spring when I replaced the spindle & knuckle. It is this side that the splined washer was worn by the end of the spindle. It was mentioned that the spindle seal I used might be too thick, pushing the end into the splined washer, because not enough axle was exposed (short shaft syndrome), making it too tight. This made sense to me, but the new spring was also on my mind as a contributor. I squashed that thinking, believing the spring would assist in pushing the axle outward, as I have to push on that spindle to bolt it back up, due to the eliminator spring tension.

So, can you explain your thoughts on how the eliminator spring can contribute to the washer failure? .

I bought another spindle outer seal today, and will measure it against the one installed now to see if there is a thickness difference. I also got 4 new wheel bearings, and some Ford molly bearing grease. I believe the noises I am hearing is the bearings when they get hot. The red synthetic grease I used, just doesn't cut it. Going to give the spindles another once over with some emery cloth, as I believe I will find some burnishing on them. Looks like the grass will skip a week to be mowed, as I got's me some wrenching to do this weekend. lol

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done at fixing the AC, long ago I couldn't take the Summer heat any more.

 

[gmanpaint]

I am with you there Don. I have been breaking out in bad heat rashes. I can't take it either. The old 4.0 doesn't like it tho. Temps climb pretty high when used, so it's only on for short periods.