Pugly

CDW6212R · July 9, 2016

The radiators are really efficient(they are big), so the potential is there to keep the engine well below hot temps. You just need to weed out any suspect parts and be sure the air is directed properly through the radiator. It should be no trouble to keep them below 180* if you wanted that to be the limit.

My stock 99 V6 with an electric fan and 180 t'stat, it ran 180-185 virtually always, with random spikes to 195 or 200(three plus hours of engine running(in Summer with the AC on)). That's how good the radiators are, huge compared to say a Mustang and their tiny grille openings.

Maniak · July 9, 2016

gmanpaint said:
Mark,
Funny you mention the C-Clip eliminator. I just installed a new spring when I replaced the spindle & knuckle. It is this side that the splined washer was worn by the end of the spindle. It was mentioned that the spindle seal I used might be too thick, pushing the end into the splined washer, because not enough axle was exposed (short shaft syndrome), making it too tight. This made sense to me, but the new spring was also on my mind as a contributor. I squashed that thinking, believing the spring would assist in pushing the axle outward, as I have to push on that spindle to bolt it back up, due to the eliminator spring tension.

So, can you explain your thoughts on how the eliminator spring can contribute to the washer failure? .

I bought another spindle outer seal today, and will measure it against the one installed now to see if there is a thickness difference. I also got 4 new wheel bearings, and some Ford molly bearing grease. I believe the noises I am hearing is the bearings when they get hot. The red synthetic grease I used, just doesn't cut it. Going to give the spindles another once over with some emery cloth, as I believe I will find some burnishing on them. Looks like the grass will skip a week to be mowed, as I got's me some wrenching to do this weekend. lol

I thought about it some more and now I don't think the c-clip eliminator is actually doing anything bad to that splined washer. The outer spindle seal is another story.... I think my extra suspension travel may be more of an issue BUT since I no longer have the boot on the long side slip shaft it shouldn't be pulling the axle in against the splined washer anymore.

~Mark

gmanpaint · July 9, 2016

CDW6212R said:
The radiators are really efficient(they are big), so the potential is there to keep the engine well below hot temps. You just need to weed out any suspect parts and be sure the air is directed properly through the radiator. It should be no trouble to keep them below 180* if you wanted that to be the limit.

My stock 99 V6 with an electric fan and 180 t'stat, it ran 180-185 virtually always, with random spikes to 195 or 200(three plus hours of engine running(in Summer with the AC on)). That's how good the radiators are, huge compared to say a Mustang and their tiny grille openings.

I think this engine is getting fatigue with over 250k on it. It has a new Rad, newish temp valve, newish water pump, severe duty fan clutch, and has been flushed every year. It is running a new 185* T-stat, and properly mixed coolant. The fan stays engaged when the stock temp gauge reaches about 1/3 of they way up, and only gets that hot with the A/C running.

Maniak said:
I thought about it some more and now I don't think the c-clip eliminator is actually doing anything bad to that splined washer. The outer spindle seal is another story.... I think my extra suspension travel may be more of an issue BUT since I no longer have the boot on the long side slip shaft it shouldn't be pulling the axle in against the splined washer anymore.

~Mark

I ran that speedy boot like you did in the past, but it didn't last long as it broke. I am not running anything on the slip either presently. It must be that outer seal causing the troubles. Hopefully I will have time tomorrow to tear it apart to compare the one installed to the one I just bought. The inner seal looked identical to the replacement, but I will look at it as well, to make sure it sits back far enough on the axle.

CDW6212R · July 9, 2016

What coolant mixture do you have, 50%, 25% etc? It's best to use as little anti-freeze as is needed for the climate. How cold do you get in Winter, the real lows?

I see the single digits here rarely, but still maybe once or a few times a year. So I can get away with just 25% or so mixture. I do always use an additive also, I like the Water Weter, which improves heat transfer and lubricates the WP seals. That does make the gauge show noticeably lower, just a little given the same thermostat and fan.

gmanpaint · July 9, 2016

50% coolant 50% distilled water is my normal mix. It gets plenty cold here, and does get to single digits or lower occasionally. I do have that leaking lower intake gasket still, and have been adding about a pint of mix every 2 weeks or so.
Would a leak like that create the temps to spike due to not having 100% flow efficiency? It doesn't come out under pressure at all, just trickles out mainly when the engine is turned off, and down the backside of the block. :dunno:

CDW6212R · July 10, 2016

Air in the engine will make it run a little warmer, but it sounds like you don't have much at all if you keep the radiator topped off. To get noticeably too hot, I think it should have to be down a good 2 inches or more below full.

Check the back of an antifreeze jug and see what the chart shows for your coldest temps there. I bet you can increase the amount of water(distilled) ratio in it, and try an additive. That might be all it needs, after of course fixing the small leak. Buying new coolants etc, is expensive you know, so I'm sure you want to not be doing it over and over often.

I'm about to do my "new" truck coolant, all hoses, and I think one gallon of antifreeze will get me close to the zero mark for protection. I always have 2-3 gallons available, and start with one, the additive, and then count the water needed to top it off. If you don't completely empty the system(some is left in the block), then it doesn't take as much antifreeze to reach the needed mixture. So I rarely use more than the first gallon when I do one of my Fords. Often though it'll be one in the radiator, and then close to a 50/50 mix in the overflow bottle. I adjust that based on how much water it takes to fill the radiator.

Take a shot at that intake gasket, which isn't that big of a project I think, I forgot if you have the OHV or the SOHC. I think you've got the OHV right, I'm sure you would have posted a lot about the SOHC if you had that thing(I have one in my 99 that I plan to excise some day).

gmanpaint · July 10, 2016

I have never used an additive in coolant before. I will look into it. Rad is always full, as the resi always has some in it, and where I top it off. I keep a couple gallons mixed and on hand for that. I did the lower ohv gasket job a couple years ago myself, and the dr rear water port didnt seal perfectly, as it started leaking some time later. I have a new gasket kit, just haven't got to it yet. Been too busy running down other problems, keeping it on the road. lol

CDW6212R · July 10, 2016

Me too, lots of fires to keep up with, and get my "new" truck up to par/maintained to drive it.

The coolant additives that "make it cool better", they improve heat transfer, just like water cools better than antifreeze. You will like them, I went with the Water Weter long ago because it was common at all stores, and only $6 back then. Now you have to price shop to get to $10 or under, a sale etc. Other brands are still much more, so I stick with what I know.

gmanpaint · July 10, 2016

Went at it today. Got the pass side figured out.

Turns out the inner seal was too thick, and wouldn't let the metal ring seat all the way. I swapped it out for one I had on a spare axle, replaced the spindle with a good clean spare, and BAM! Back in business!! Woot!
The outer seal was the same as the others on my spare spindles, so it stayed. Put that old splined washer back on, and just put the worn side out, with some grease behind it. Installed brand new wheel bearings, with the Ford blackish molly grease.

Dr side was def getting hot. The grease had went from red to black in a matter of weeks, and the spindle had a little varnish starting on it. So a good clean, and emery polish, then Installed the new wheel bearings. Gave em both the torx procedure, wheels back on, and around the block. Seemed all good, and coasted easily.

Man I hope this was the cause of that pop pop pop noise, and it's gone. (crosses fingers)

p.s. I also got the yard mowed this morning.

gmanpaint · July 17, 2016

So last Sunday was spent wrenching on the front end. This Sunday is the rear end. SMH

Over the week, the rear end developed a growl when under acceleration only. I thought great, damn carrier bearing is fubar. Just what I need.

So today I removed the cover, and swept the valley pan. Got some metal chunks and some shavings galore.

I sprayed the carrier down with brake cleaner to see whats what. I found many chipped spider gear teeth. I can't see any broken LS plates at all, and the ring gear looks fine. I can't see the pinion gear to see if anything is wrong.

So.... What to do, what to do? I have an open carrier in a box, but no spare 88 spider gears. Hmm.. Should I buy a lunchbox locker, and swap carriers, and re-use the 4:10's? Or should I save up and buy a new set of 4:56 R&P? I also have a set of front D35 4:56, and a D35 lunchbox locker sitting in a box, so I'm torn what to do, as Pugly is the DD. If I wait for the parts, and take a chance using it with the damaged rear, I could get stranded or worse, the rear locks up, and throws it into a fishtail. What to do....What to do.......??

Turdle · July 17, 2016

Lunchbox and 410s.
daily driver fuel economy and road manners.

Daily driver.
You only need one wheeling rig. The locker will help in snow and ice if you keep the front open.

gmanpaint · July 17, 2016

Thanks Jon,
Pugly is not the wheeler, but it is the road rig that I want to get me thru harsh situations if needed. Kinda a doomsday prepper thing.

With that said, and not trying to come across all argumentative at all.....I would get better MPG with the 4:56 then with the 4:10's & 35's. With the manual hubs and 1354, the front locker would only be in play in 4wd & hubs locked, so it wont affect normal DD in the least bit. Now for snow & ice, yes, that would make it a bit harder to control, but if it is real bad out, it stays parked. Way too many others out there on the road that have no biz being on the road in bad conditions that I worry about.

This is more about time / money & safety for me choosing here. Locker & fluids will cost me under $400 using the old 4:10's. Add the new 4:56's, and it jumps to $1400, as I would have to take it in to a shop. ($500 for gears / master kit / 8.8 crush sleeve eliminator, and another $500 for labor) Plus labor for setting the front gears, another $500, so that's $1900! Ack!!

Who says these rigs are cheap to have? :crazy:

gmanpaint · July 22, 2016

Update:

The Good: Ordering a Yukon Spartan locker. Wed morning Pugly is scheduled to go on a lift for the carrier swap, locker install and set the backlash using the same 4:10's.

The Bad: The growling noise got way worse, and can feel it in the skinny pedal when accelerating. Let off, and it subsides. I now believe the issue is two fold.

I decided it has to be either the bottom end of the old 4.0L or the rebuilt trans. I drained and filtered the engine oil with a paint strainer. I found 2 tiny pcs of metal coming out of the filter. The oil in the pan was clean, with no shavings, particles, chunks, etc... I am about to cut the filter in half and see what's there.

The unsure: If the filter is metal free, it's on to the trans. Not sure if I should drain the pan, and filter the fluids, or just take it in to the shop that I got it from. My warranty expires in a couple weeks, so I have to figure this out ASAP. The transfer case checked out good.

The known: 1st to 2nd shifts are sloppy when the throttle is let off when it shifts. It slams a bit. I am not sure if that is the valve body, or what, but might explain the spider gears getting chipped.

Edit: Cut the oil filter can, and found the filter to be perfectly free of metal. Strained the oil out of it, and was clean as can be. I was expecting maybe something from a 253k engine, but nope. I'm pretty happy about that. Rig is going back to the trans shop Tuesday to be checked out. After all I looked at, I'm pretty sure now, this is the culprit.

ahodges · July 25, 2016

Good to hear about the engine! Pugly just loves being worked on and massaged.

gmanpaint · July 25, 2016

Agreed, that's a big relief.

Pugly demands constant attention, and if I neglect her for a few days, she figures a way to make me give it. LOL

The locker won't arrive until Wed eve, so that appointment got moved. I cancelled Tuesdays appointment with the trans shop, as I want the rear axle fixed first, in case that's the only thing wrong.

For some reason, I do not get notifications from the forum any more. I checked my settings, and all is good there. :dunno:

gmanpaint · July 27, 2016

Pugly took a ride on a flat bed wrecker today.

Used it for work this morning, and it made it 15 miles before the rear diff gave up the ghost. Luckily, I was on a side street doing 10mph. Took 5 hours to get it picked up, delivered to the shop, and get me back home.

It was making metal to metal noise and popping like mad when it happened. Immediately pulled it over and parked it. When the tow arrived, I had to back it up about 20 ft, and it made no noise, and seemed fine. When we took it off the wrecker, and had to move it forward at the shop, it acted as if the trans was slipping, and wouldn't move. Gave it a little gas a few times, then it caught, and POP!! It was then able to move forward to park it. Shop owner said that happens when the ring or pinion gear is broken. FML.

The wrecker driver gave me a ride home, and when we pulled up, UPS was there dropping off the new locker and Lube Locker gasket, ( Ok, one thing went right today). Go to get the synthetic gear fluids, and they were sold out of it. Figures. Off to walmart and got some off brand dino fluids. I figured if the R&P is shot, and I have to install new, the cheap stuff will work for the break in period. Now to find some gears & install kit, and pay up the nose to have them delivered over night to the shop. FMLx2.

Silver lining in this is.... The trans shop is 30 miles away on the 60mph HWY. If the rear blew up then, the rig might be at a salvage yard right now, and me in the ER. What a fricking day.

Edit: Ordered a new set of 4:56 R&P & master install kit. If the gears are being changed, so is the ratio. I will get to the fronts next month, so I can save for the install charges, and the master kit. thank goodness I already have the front 4:56 gears (& locker too!)
Edit #2: Gears and master kit showed up AFTER the shop closed for the weekend. Always something...

CDW6212R · July 27, 2016

It hurts to hear that kind of story, that's a bad day. But you said it well, it could have been different, much different. Take it easy and be thankful for the other things that do go well.

gmanpaint · August 3, 2016

So.....

I delivered the new gears and master install kit Monday Morning. They told me they would start on it in an hour or so, and call me when it's ready. Cool.

So today is Wednesday, and I haven't heard back yet. I called for an update this morning thinking the worse. Guy said the lift broke a cable, and the pulley exploded next to his head as he was inside the cab when it happened. they got the vehicle off and the lift repaired this morning, and was about to start on my rig. should be done in a few hours. Damn.

Still no word yet. Is it too late to change Pugly's name to some kind of Celtic cursed name? LOL

Turdle · August 3, 2016

smudge stick? Exorcist? Ghostbusters?

Why do the most amazing things happen near our trucks?

gmanpaint · August 4, 2016

Got a call at 5pm and was told they would be finishing up the next day.

Guy told me that the carrier bearing went out, and broke the spider gears. A fragment broke the speed sensor, and needs replaced. The delay was being caused because the upper housing fill hole bolt was stripped, and he trying to get it out so he could fill the diff when they finished.

I reminded him that I set the original appointment with him, knowing the carrier failed and the spiders were chipped. The delay from Fri to Mon was because I decided on R&R of the R&P, and ordered them after the rig was delivered.

I asked how the R&P looked. Said they took some damage from the spider gear chunks. OK, I want the old gears I told him. I want too see just how bad. When I inspected them, I didn't find any cracks, chips, or missing teeth, but... that was a few days before I had it towed in.

I then told him that I informed his worker, the cover has a fill bolt, and not to worry about the housing fill bolt, as it is tack welded in place, from being stripped out. He let's out a big ole SOB!!!!

So hopefully they get this wrapped up soon, and I can begin getting the 500 mile break in period over with. As soon as the dog days of summer pass, I will tear the front diff out and have that changed over to 4:56, and install the lunchbox.

Here is a link to the Spartan locker install. Super easy if you follow this video exactly as told. Printed Directions included, are less then desirable, as the shop just found out. Also, the 4:56 ring gear needs a few teeth ground to allow the cross pin shaft to fit. The Spartan locker spring set up is way better then both the Aussie & Richmond as they are encased in a cylinder, and protected 100%.

Pugly

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